GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I got the familiar grinding noise (brake squeek-tab) from the Vibe finally at 60,000 miles, and bought some DuraLast brake pads to change the front brakes myself. It's freaking cold, but I am a cheapskate and money is king! I pulled off the calipers... low and behold the slide pins are permanently sealed. No need to remove or grease them! I swapped out the pads in about 15 minutes for both sides. The fastest and easiest brake job I've ever had. And no...I did not turn my rotors. The were just fine, and the pads seated in a few days.

So all you have to do is pull the caliper and drop in new pads? This sounds way too easy. I'm no where near 60,000 but will keep this in mind when the time comes.Cheers and thanks for the tip

Quote, originally posted by Flip-Side » I swapped out the pads in about 15 minutes for both sides. The fastest and easiest brake job I've ever had. The standard time book for this task probably states "2 hrs" so the mechanically dis-inclined among us probably pay $90 labor + parts + 7% shop material charge for that service. In the old days we were fortunate to have local independent gas station grease monkeys that performed these kind of services at a reasonable cost - but for the most part those days are long gone.

Quote, originally posted by vibe-04 »So all you have to do is pull the caliper and drop in new pads? This sounds way too easy. It can be tough if you have no tools handy.1.) Socket Set (you only need 1 socket)2.) 4-way for your wheels3.) Car JackLifetime Warranty Duralast Pads (fronts) = $25Anti Squeal compound = $1 packetBrake Grease = $1 packetTotal front brake cost = $27 After you have the car jacked and take off one of the wheels, you take 2 small bolts off the back of the caliper. Take the caliper off and hang it on your strut to keep it out of the way. Yank off the old pads and check to see if the rotor is smooth. Throw on the new pads, put some anti-squeal compound on their backs where the caliper contacts it, and grease their slide rails. Do Not get grease on the rotor or pads! Squeeze the caliper cylinder with a c-clamp or whatever you have handy and bolt it back in place. Replace the wheel, pump the brakes until they grab, test drive checking for squeaking/grinding/exploding, and then grab yourself a beer. If your rotors are uneven, you may need them turned (smoothed). Pros will say, "always turn them" but turning isn't always done in their shops either and I really don't care as long as the pads seat properly.

All you need is pictures and this could be a permanent sticky

Quote, originally posted by Flip-Side »It can be tough if you have no tools handy.1.) Socket Set (you only need 1 socket)2.) 4-way for your wheels3.) Car JackLifetime Warranty Duralast Pads (fronts) = $25Anti Squeal compound = $1 packetBrake Grease = $1 packetTotal front brake cost = $27 After you have the car jacked and take off one of the wheels, you take 2 small bolts off the back of the caliper. Take the caliper off and hang it on your strut to keep it out of the way. Yank off the old pads and check to see if the rotor is smooth. Throw on the new pads, put some anti-squeal compound on their backs where the caliper contacts it, and grease their slide rails. Do Not get grease on the rotor or pads! Squeeze the caliper cylinder with a c-clamp or whatever you have handy and bolt it back in place. Replace the wheel, pump the brakes until they grab, test drive checking for squeaking/grinding/exploding, and then grab yourself a beer. If your rotors are uneven, you may need them turned (smoothed). Pros will say, "always turn them" but turning isn't always done in their shops either and I really don't care as long as the pads seat properly.pics would be LOVELY!

*bump*Anyone thinking of doing this soon that would be willing to take pics? Or how about at the Vibe meet, anyone up for it then? I can take pics if someone helps me change my pads (brake pads you sickos)

Do you need to push the caliper piston(s) back before you install the new pads? Thanks.

ill probably be doing my pads in about two-3 months if there are no pics up by then ill try to take some

I took a look at the brakes the other week when I rotated the tires and I noticed just how easy they would be to do.My other cars that were cavaliers had a similar system. It took me less than 25min to do the front brake job including changing out the rotor. It's good to know that the Vibe will be similar.

brakes are really easy..only trouble i've had on my sunfire is getting the piston back in enough to put the pads on and over the rotor..but other then that such an easy job

Always remember that when you first press on the brake pedal after reattaching the calipers, just tap the brake several times, DONT push the pedal all the way to the floor. Like most moving parts, the master cylinder wears on the inside. Forcing the piston past the 'normal' range of motion can damage the seals inside and lead to premature failure. This is a bad thing. Just taping the pedal keeps the Master in its 'normal' range until the pads seat to the rotor.

Ok, well, tomorrow I will buy some pads, and either change them in the next week or so, OR take them to the FL meet, and change them with all the other Vibe members, but more than likely just do it here, so I can have new pads for the ride down. Either way I will take pics and put them up here.

Also read this thread for more infohttp://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=25455

I haven't done the brakes on my Vibe yet, but I have many times before on other cars.I'm sure you do have to push the piston in the caliper back before you put the new pads in. I usually just wedge a flat screw driver between the rotor and the old pad, crack open the bleader screw, and pry back against the pad forcing the piston back. Then remove the old pads. Doing this will not harm the rotor. You need to open the bleader so the fluid goes out there, and is not forced back up into the master cylinder, or if you have ABS, debre in the caliper can have a negative effect if push back through your ABS sensor.

I'm getting ready to do mine. But, I'm going to have the rotors turned on the car. I hear this is the best way. But what do I know.

Quote, originally posted by MarkM04 »I haven't done the brakes on my Vibe yet, but I have many times before on other cars.I'm sure you do have to push the piston in the caliper back before you put the new pads in. I usually just wedge a flat screw driver between the rotor and the old pad, crack open the bleeder screw, and pry back against the pad forcing the piston back. Then remove the old pads. Doing this will not harm the rotor. You need to open the bleeder so the fluid goes out there, and is not forced back up into the master cylinder, or if you have ABS, debre in the caliper can have a negative effect if push back through your ABS sensor. Nice tip. I never liked forcing the caliper using a clamp. And I never liked the idea of pushing fluid "back up" the system.I'll be doing mine in the spring when the good weather returns

Just be sure to check and ad fluid when you're done.

Quote, originally posted by MarkM04 »I usually just wedge a flat screw driver between the rotor and the old pad, crack open the bleeder screw, and pry back against the pad forcing the piston back. Then remove the old pads.Quote, originally posted by vibe-04 »Nice tip. I never liked forcing the caliper using a clamp. And I never liked the idea of pushing fluid "back up" the system.If you open the bleeder screw, you have the possibility of allowing air into your brake system. That means that you will have to bleed the brake lines once you are done.I force the piston back in the caliper, and allow the brake fluid to push back into the master brake cylinder. Each pump of the brake petal normally pushes this same fluid back and forth in the system anyway. And, by not opening the bleeder, I do not have to bleed the brakes ... it remains a closed air-tight system.

how does the process compare to changing the rear pads?

I have never heard nor seen sliders that were permanently sealed. I have the manual.The manual says to hold the slide pin(open end wrench) so you can you remove the smaller(12 or 14mm I think) bolts. NOT the big ones on the spindle. Per the manual- you can pull the rubber booties back and pull the slide pins out and put a dab of grease. I know I can squeeze the booties and feel the little bit of grease inside. I had a Jap truck with the same design. Which had to be greased. The small bolts are only to be torqued to 25 ft/lb. Anyone else seen what I mean? Does sound like what you did? Or did you remove the rather large headed bolts on the spindle which require 79 ft/lb when tightened?

the1stacekiller wrote:All you need is pictures and this could be a permanent sticky

No need to reinvent the wheel - search is your friend!

viewtopic.php?f=26&t=24417&p=494661&hil ... al#p494661" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I found it necessary to use the toyota OEM shim kit with my akebono pads; their included single shims and permatex blue stop-squeal didnt do it.

$20 off amazon.ca (“Toyota 04945-02050 Disc Brake Pad Shim) and youtube had a great vid showing where exactly to apply molybdenum grease based on pad shape (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIk6R2QTrVE , “Genuine Toyota Brake Pad Best Practices”).

Someone else posted the install diagram, but here it is: https://www.ucx.com/documents/jobmatrix.pdf

Hope this helps fellow Vibe lovers.

Colin / Ontario / 2006 base model (favourite car EVER)