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Quick, simple question: I need a source of ground and a 12V lead that is switched with the ignition from within the driver's door. So, the power going to the window switches is essientially what I'm looking for, and I would think there is a ground to be found somewhere in that mess of wires. What pins on the connector and/or color wires am I looking for that will give me what I need?I know the info is around here somewhere but I can't seem to find it now. So, I figured instead of probing around with the multimeter and shorting something out in the process, I would ask first. TIA!

I don't know, can't tell, but saw this in the softcopy matrix service manual, perhaps when you are in there you can mess around and see if this really works:

Attached files

Good deal, thanks. I am seeing 12V switched with the ignition when I check those two terminals with the multimeter.

here's the whole pdf. Looks like +12V on pins 6 and 7, ground on 1 and 3. Not sure what wire colors are though. The part of the previous pic I thought was interesting was the bit about switch illumination. I don't have power windows, so can't tell, but I remember people complaining about the lack of lighted switches. This pub indicates that there is switch illumination. Are there really lights in the switch assembly?anyway, here's the pdf

Attached files inspec40.pdf (91.1 KB) 

Thanks for the PDF. The driver's window does have *some* lighting, it comes on with the ignition. But all you get is a very faint 'AUTO' lit up on the switch that is pretty difficult to see. It appears to be done with a green LED inside the switch itself. None of the other switches have any illumination. I have a couple different types of LED modules which have multiple LED's in them that I am testing out for illumination around the switches. This is similar to what mcgusto did with his... Basically, the goal I'm trying to accomplish is to mount an LED module of some description to the door panel and have it shine toward the switches. The end result is the gaps between the switches and the trim glowing, giving you somewhat of an outline of where the switches are...I've attached a pic of the LED module (this one is white and has 3 LED's in it.) I also have plenty of 6-led modules like what I put under the dash laying around - blue, purple, and amber, I will play around with these until I figure out which one looks the best. I was hoping to do something similar to what I did with my LED's on the radio bezel for power - I just took the wiring harness for the rear defroster, found the wire for the illumination and stuck the wire through the back of the connector. That isn't working here, there are too many wires, the wires are rather large, and there isn't much space left over in the connector compared to what I had to work with over on the dash. I don't necessarily want to cut or splice into the wiring so if I can't get power to it from the harness for the window and lock controls without cutting, I will end up having to run it out of the door and under the dash.

Attached files

i got tired of that weak AUTO light along time ago.i gotta tell you. go for the 6 LED module you say you have. a single LED shoots out a light like a beam, and don't spread very well. question. is the light on the switch switch control or ilumination control?reason i ask is that if it's just IGN controlled. you will have them on all the time. if you connect them with the lighting system. then they go on when your lights go on.

If I go with the wiring associated w/ the power window switches, they will go off and on with the ignition. That's actually the same way the 'AUTO' light in the window switch itself works, always on with the ignition and not tied in with the dash lighting. I figured with LED's, I could probably get away with always having them on any time the ignition is on since heat, current draw, and longevity won't be too big of an issue.I would much rather have it set up like yours so it would come on with the lights and can be adjusted with the dash lighting... I don't look forward to running that wiring through the door and into the car though.

It's actually not too bad to get into these doors due to the Toyota design.. Quite accessable from the inside if I remember correctly.. It shouldn't be too much of a chore for ya!

the vibe service manual has good pics of all connector pinouts and signal function, but I am without one of those. The current light sounds weak, but then again I have never needed my window controls to be illuminated

Btw, as far as current draw goes.. do you KNOW how much power those bloody windows use? Trust me..unless you're using 1 watt LEDs, you won't have to worry about burning anything up. I have my door-handle LEDs powered off the window wiring.

hey i was about to post this same question. im doing the same thing.

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »It's actually not too bad to get into these doors due to the Toyota design.. Quite accessable from the inside if I remember correctly.. It shouldn't be too much of a chore for ya!Oh yea, it was super easy to get to... I found that the trim panel for the window controls was sliding around, so I took a minute to investigate... Probably when I had the door panel off to swap out the speakers, I broke every clip off that holds that thing on. There is still the one piece at the top that goes down into the door panel, other than that nothing is holding it in. So while I had a big gaping hole there, I figured I would look into this. I need to replace that trim, or maybe just double-sided tape the thing back into place as it's pretty loose.