GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Has anyone installed the accessory spalsh gaurds? Is any drilling required, or are the original bolts/screws used to secure these?

If you're talking about the molded splash guards, no, they fit into existing holes. Shouldn't take you more than 1/2 hour to install all 4.

For my own sake, are you guys talking about mud guards? I've been thinking of getting them. Where's the best place?

Yes, they're talking about mud guards, officially called splash guards by GM. Available from normal GM parts sources. IMO, they are definitely worth it!

someone on another post, did report the rears required drilling?? http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=10754

Quote, originally posted by jasonvibe »someone on another post, did report the rears required drilling?? http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=10754I just ordered a set, so if you can wait a week, I'll let you know...

We added them to our 2003 Vibe shortly after our purchase. I installed the front ones without drilling and without removing the wheels. The rear ones required both. We had them installed by the gas station which put on our snow tires, at that time. The drilling was minimal, though.

I ordered the fronts on Friday. I knew there was no drilling. They called today...they're in. Must have shipped from Boston, like my mats. One day service without asking. GMJAP Yes, let me know about the rears when you get them on. I don't want to drill into the steel of the fender...that's my fear. Maybe it's unfounded but still it's in me. So let me know. I am putting on my snows soon. They're in the garage waiting for colder weather. Been balmy lately.

I just put the front guards on mine. There are plastic pushy things that you put in. They happen to be about a 1/4" too long. I busted one trying to get it all the way in. I called the dealer, he said, "go to the auto parts store". They had one that barely fit. I suggest you cut or grind 1/8" off it. I saw the rear flaps on another Vibe. The drilling is in the plastic rear bumper. Not a big deal. But for now I'll hold off. Fronts are different whether you have monotone or not. I got the 12499855 is for 2004-2005 .. 2 tone and all 2006. The 12498056 is for all 2003 and monotones 2004- 2005

I just installed all 4 on Monday night. I found the same problem with the front push pins being at least 1/2 inch too long. I bet they won't make it past the winter's ice. But the other 2 screws should hold on the guards. I ordered my guards off ebay. They are GM. Seems like GM should send the right size push pins or at least send a note saying to cut them prior to installation.

I reinforced each mud guard with stainless steel screws. The stock screws are not strong enough. I used SS screws normally used for licence plates. Drill a pilot hole through the guard and plastic shroud and screw away.birrr, snow and ice good luck Andrew

Problem is to find the exact size push pins. The replacements I bought were cheap, $1.50 for 6. But barely got them to hold. They are 1 inch long, need 1.25" The shop by me has paint and fasteners for body work. This was the best they had. As for drilling then putting in bigger, better screws. I will just get a bit wider(SS or Brass) to hold better on the fender. VIBE-04, I don't know exactly where you drilled? Sounds like through the steel fender also. I am not about to start drilling the guard or the fender area. Have a picture??? They stripped the plastic on the inner fender at the factory with the stock screws. So a slightly wider screw is what I'll look for.

Drilling is not a problem. I'll post a pic once I'm back and it really helps lock it in. Hang in there....

I'm glad I'm not the only one who has noticed the push pin problems!!! I first put a set on back in '03 right after I bought the car. They actually supplied me with the right size push pins. I ended up having to replace the splash guards up front again however. The push pins GM included this time around were way too long. I thought I was surely not doing something right, so I was hammering the stupid things in with a ratchet and broke those suckers right off. I never bothered to replace them. The bolt holes in the fenders are all stripped out, so I had to put in different bolts, that is all that holds mine in. Gonna be interesting to see if they last the winter.

The correct size of "oversized" screw to use is 5/16"w x 3/4"L + 1/4"id washer threaded on each...put them on today...all is tight.

Quote, originally posted by jasonvibe »The correct size of "oversized" screw to use is 5/16"w x 3/4"L + 1/4"id washer threaded on each...put them on today...all is tight.Great! thanks for posting that. Expecting to get my flaps this Wed.

Here's a pic of the two screws I put in to the mud flap to ensure it was secure. I just used stainless steel licence plate screws. Cheap and only a small pilot hole in the plastic.Good luck

So, those screws don't go through any sheet metal???

Correct. I would not want that since that would introduce a point for rust to grow. We get a lot of ice build-up and the existing screws didn't give me a sense of confidence. I can't remember who it was (trdvibe??) but they suggested to me last year.Hope this helps.Andrew

I am also rust paranoid. The guy across the street has a late Chevy S10 with the extended flaps. Same design as ours and has just the fender scews and are 3-4" longer than ours. His have lasted 5 years. These are durable to a point. Thanks...

Got mine installed today. GM didn't overly impress me with them, though. After putting them on, I thought I'd offer the following tips: Front: 1. After removing the 2 screws & the existing push pin, cut about 1/2" from the provided push pins and trim end to a bit of a point. 2. Attach the guard with the top screw (but don't tighten) 3. Attach bottom with spacer and push pin 4. Put in lower screw and tighten both. MAKE SURE you use plenty of pressure while driving the middle screw; it strips very easily so don't overtighten either.Rear:Unfortunatley, you do need to remove the rear wheels to be able to drill holes & install it properly. 1. The directions say to drill a 1/4" hole for the bottom bolt. This is bogus. There is already a push pin where the bolt should go. Remove this push pin and attach the guard with the bolt, nut & washer through the existing hole. 2. Now that you've secured the guard with the bolt, it's much easier to accurately drill the 2 5/32" screw holes in the wheel well.I would also like to point out something that may be obvious to the rest of you - don't start working on your car when your back is already bothering you! You may wind up spending the rest of the day laying in bed, fearing the next time you have to go to the john......

Quote, originally posted by GMJAP »Rear:Unfortunatley, you do need to remove the rear wheels to be able to drill holes & install it properly.actually, i was able to install mine using a flex-shaft attachment on my dremel (i still smile when i type that! )...i believe there are attachments for drills that can do this too?Quote, originally posted by GMJAP »I would also like to point out something that may be obvious to the rest of you - don't start working on your car when your back is already bothering you! You may wind up spending the rest of the day laying in bed, fearing the next time you have to go to the john...... you mean GM didn't include that warning in the instructions?!?!? the nerve!!

[QUOTE=Atomb]actually, i was able to install mine using a flex-shaft attachment on my dremel (i still smile when i type that! )...i believe there are attachments for drills that can do this too?QUOTE]I've seen right-angle drill attachments, but alas I (and most other mortals) don't have one.Those flex-shafts are cool. My sister-in-law has one (she's a metalsmith), but lives at the other end of the country.