GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

After reading Gandalf's & Colonel Panic's posts about the "cheesy" vinyl cargo cover for the Vibe, I decided to make a hard cargo cover as a test.Here's a shot of the prototype:Basically, I cut a ½" x 2' x 4' plank of "Handy Panel" to shape and inserted four square bend screw hooks (#108 size). Total cost was $7.55 and it took about two hours. If you have a jigsaw and knew the dimensions already, you could do this in 30 minutes easily.I haven't painted or covered it yet. The hooks need to be prepped with a coating so the cover won't rattle (it's not perfectly level). I think a cloth or felt top would look best, rather than just paint.If y'all are interested, I'll post a how-to.

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Here's another shot:

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a how-to would be great!!

Quote, originally posted by zionzr2 »a how-to would be great!!A template would be cool too!

Quote, originally posted by gargoyle »A template would be cool too! Trace your vinyl cover. That's an awesome project, i'd be interested in how you attached it to the vibe's tiedowns. close up photos of the hardware. Only two problems I can see with this - storing it with the seats up, stressing the tiedowns with the added weight.I sure miss the spring loaded roll-up cargo cover in my Escape.

Quote, originally posted by binary »Trace your vinyl cover. Brilliant!

that looks great. some vinyl or some of that speaker cabinet carpet and you're all set!

Quote, originally posted by gargoyle »A template would be cool too! Binary got it right; I used the vinyl cover as a template for the curves, but adjusted the overall width to accommodate the hooks.

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Quote, originally posted by binary »That's an awesome project, i'd be interested in how you attached it to the vibe's tiedowns. close up photos of the hardware. Only two problems I can see with this - storing it with the seats up, stressing the tiedowns with the added weight.It fits a little too well; it butts up against the seats. The mounting points should be shifted about 1/8th of an inch to accomodate that.Here's a close-up of how the hooks fit in the tie downs:It would be nice to lighten it up some, but I don't think there's a problem with the weight (it's about 12-13 lbs).

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Would it be practical to put a hinge in the board somehow so that it could be folded and easily stored when not in use?Does it shift/wiggle around (auidbly) when cornering or driving?

It's an interesting mod! I'll be watching this thread for improvements. For now I couldn't use this. At work I occasionally have to haul large cases of media - I need a cover that can store. But I would love a sold cover, or at least one that is more ridgid that this vinyl cover we get.I wonder if ripping the exact copy of the cover, then just bring the hooks in under the wood - so they're hidden, leaving the cover to cover up most of the tiedown too?rubber weather stripping (half round) along the edge would make a good bumper... at least while testing it.You're right - weight isn't an issue at 3-3.25 pounds per tiedown.

Quote, originally posted by zionzr2 »Would it be practical to put a hinge in the board somehow so that it could be folded and easily stored when not in use?Does it shift/wiggle around (auidbly) when cornering or driving? I'm trying to figure out if it can be hinged, yes. I'm thinking a piano hinge in the center might work, but want to make sure it stays rigid when unfolded.It fits very well right now (i.e. no wiggling). I put shrink tubing over the hooks to eliminate the rattle.

Quote, originally posted by ZubenElGenubi »I'm thinking a piano hinge in the center might work, but want to make sure it stays rigid when unfolded.if you put the hinge on the bottom, the pressure from the wood pressing down on itself would hold the cover rigid (rather than on the top where it would just collapse on itself). it'd just be a matter of setting the hinge so that the gap is as tight as possible and making sure the hooks clear one another when it's closed.regardless, for folks who want some privacy for their cargo, this is a great idea.

Very cool project and on how that turned out! Glad that I could help, although when I posted the pic that I took, I didn't think it would give anybody any inspiration. lol!The hinged idea for storage of the cover sounds cool. If I was competent at all with this kind of stuff, I would love to try this myself... I don't know about you guys, but the texture of that stock cover gives me the willies for some reason... I just don't like how it feels. lol!

Quote, originally posted by jwalcik »if you put the hinge on the bottom, the pressure from the wood pressing down on itself would hold the cover rigid (rather than on the top where it would just collapse on itself). it'd just be a matter of setting the hinge so that the gap is as tight as possible and making sure the hooks clear one another when it's closed.That's how I visualize it as well. I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I am concerned as to how much loss of support there will be after a hinge is added. Currently, the cover will hold about 25-30 lbs. with minimal sag if the weight is evenly distributed. As long as that isn't dropped significantly - and the cover won't wear out at the hinge - it should work.The upshot of all this is that it makes loading though the lift glass a practical option.

Quote, originally posted by ZubenElGenubi »That's how I visualize it as well. I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I am concerned as to how much loss of support there will be after a hinge is added. Currently, the cover will hold about 25-30 lbs. with minimal sag if the weight is evenly distributed. As long as that isn't dropped significantly - and the cover won't wear out at the hinge - it should work.The upshot of all this is that it makes loading though the lift glass a practical option.ahhh. i hadn't realized that you were wanting to use it to create a second layer of storage. i was only thinking of it as a coer for the cargo in the "trunk" area.what about some other means of attaching two halves? i can't think of anything right now that doesn't seem unecessarily complex.

Quote, originally posted by jwalcik »ahhh. i hadn't realized that you were wanting to use it to create a second layer of storage. i was only thinking of it as a cover for the cargo in the "trunk" area.what about some other means of attaching two halves? i can't think of anything right now that doesn't seem unecessarily complex.Yeah, I figured it should be able to act as a tray as well. It would sure help when doing groceries, that's for sure.I'm still gonna try the piano hinge idea, as shown below. The hooks shouldn't interfere with each other, but could be twisted a little to the side.The only other way I could think of would be to use several dowels and slide them together. You'd probably have to break it down into three pieces to reduce the stress.

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Awesome, someone did this on MO, then put a soft foam on top and wrapped it all in vinyl. Very good idea, might have to keep this in mind! Might have to stop by Home Depot after work!

Quote, originally posted by damronjr »Awesome, someone did this on MO, then put a soft foam on top and wrapped it all in vinyl. Very good idea, might have to keep this in mind! Might have to stop by Home Depot after work! Here's the MatrixOwners forum post on that mod. It looks excellent.http://matrixowners.com/forums...38785Here's a reduced-size pic:He used L-brackets mounted underneath to get the maximum width out of the cover. Wish I'd thought of that!

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you guys would need to make some kind of wall to keep things on top of the shelf sliding to the rear seats. right?? or maybe a net between the back hatch and seats?? i don't. it just seems to me that that could be an issue.

Quote, originally posted by mcgusto82 »you guys would need to make some kind of wall to keep things on top of the shelf sliding to the rear seats. right?? or maybe a net between the back hatch and seats?? i don't. it just seems to me that that could be an issue.Ah, now there would be another good mod...add a set of cargo net anchors behind and above the seats.

you could use this with your cargo deck...http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=7302

That's too permanent. you really can't get a large object from inside the vihicle. you would have to get out and open the rear glass.i'm still leaning towards the net. you can remove it from the rear seats. i don't know. i'm not entirely interested. those of us with subs back there would get extra rattling.

Quote, originally posted by mcgusto82 »That's too permanent. you really can't get a large object from inside the vihicle. you would have to get out and open the rear glass.i'm still leaning towards the net. you can remove it from the rear seats. i don't know. i'm not entirely interested. those of us with subs back there would get extra rattling.i actually used his plans to make one of those pet barriers myself, only instead of screwing it into the back of the seat, i made some hooks out of picture hangers and attached the hooks to the copper pipe with hose clamps. i can hook it on the back of the rear seats using the tie downs that came with the vibe, or remove it when my dog's not in the car.regardless, it wouldn't stop much from rolling off a shelf mounted that high. it'd hold say, a basketball or a blanket in place, but it wouldn't catch a box of tissues if it came sliding through. the tendency of stuff to fall forward into the rear seat is actually why i had initially thought that it was just going to be a cover, not a shelf. i guess it depends what you're planning on storing up there. ZubenElGenubi, your drawing of the hinge is exactly what i had in mind, the only other thing that came to mind was some sort of interlocking set of wooden hooks that would both hold the two halves together and provide support for your cargo on top. that idea still seems wholly overcomplicated.

Looks good covered in vinyl or tweed or something, I am not a fan of the cargo cover myself.

so Glenn are you goin to cover it and give it a color or just going to leave it the wood color or stain it? looks good by the way.

First, I'm going to add the piano hinge and see how well that functions before finishing it with durable fabric. I won't be doing it in vinyl (although that's a great "show" feature).I may very well make another cover with L-brackets instead of the square hooks. First, they allow the cover to take up the full width of the cargo area. Second, they offer stronger support.Plus, if my brother will loan me his jigsaw, I can whip another out in no time.

you may need to make it so that the hinged section close to the rear window is a cut out. so that the 4 L brackets stay in the metal loops. If you made the 'back half' hinge, then when you raised the hinge, the entire assembly is only supported by the back 2 L brackets.This may also solve the weight bearing properties as you could put a slight lip along the sides to support the 'hinged section'...i'll draw something up and post my idea.

i've attached a simple image.By doing this, you ensure that all 4 L brackets are always connected for full support. If the L brackets lifted with the hinged section, then the whole lid will be balancing on the rear L brackets.This allows you to open only the glass of your hatch and then open the lid to get underneath.i may actually try and make this!

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Quote, originally posted by Atomb »i've attached a simple image.By doing this, you ensure that all 4 L brackets are always connected for full support. If the L brackets lifted with the hinged section, then the whole lid will be balancing on the rear L brackets.This allows you to open only the glass of your hatch and then open the lid to get underneath.i may actually try and make this!That looks interesting! I wouldn't have thought of doing it that way, but I like it! Although I think part of the point of having it hinged is so it can fold and store.

Wow...nice drawing Atomb, but Sputnik was right; the hinge is solely for the purpose of collapsing the cargo cover so that it can be stored.

ahhh...ok. well if that's the case, then a simple way to ensure the lid doesn't collapse is to put two of those simple bolt locks (found on cottage bathroom doors ) on the underside at the joint. this would effectively 'solidify the joint' when in 'lid mode' and when unbolted, allow it to fold for storage.although, i'm curious as to when you would need to store it...in the car? when the back seats are folded and you're loading a large object? then my original design above can be turned sideways and laid flat on the 'floor'.just bouncing some thoughts off you all. i'm seriously considering this now that i think about it more. we used to do this brainstorm/bouncing at my last job to help iron out final design details!

i, like ATOM's idea alot. this can be really usable. my main concern with the whole thing is being able to get to the rear storage without having to get out of the car.

Quote, originally posted by mcgusto82 »i, like ATOM's idea alot. this can be really usable. my main concern with the whole thing is being able to get to the rear storage without having to get out of the car.fold down the seat

awesome design!! i was working on a similar design in my head.

Quote, originally posted by mcgusto82 »i, like ATOM's idea alot. this can be really usable. my main concern with the whole thing is being able to get to the rear storage without having to get out of the car.not if you have people in the back.

then make the hatch in my drawing half the size (front to back) and make another 'lid' facing forward toward the passenger cabin.This may make things a little to flimsy but you will be able to open a smaller lid from the back seat or the bigger one from outside behind the car...like in the attached image.in fact, with the net i have across the back, that smaller lid would open to that 'netted section' while the larger would open to the rest of the back! hmmm....thanks for the idea!

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now were cookin with gas!!now if we can work out the storage issue for when the lid aint needed...

Quote, originally posted by zionzr2 »now were cookin with gas!!now if we can work out the storage issue for when the lid aint needed...would having the 'lids' detachable help? then you would only have that H section which you could lay flat if the rear seats were flat...then again, if the rear seats are flat, you can just turn the whole assembly sideways and lay flat.Hmm, let me think about this some more.

So, now that the World Series is over, I've got a little time to work on my car!Okay, I took the prototype, cut it down the middle and installed a piano (or "continuous") hinge. While I didn't do a very good jobcutting (forgot to lock the scroller on the jigsaw), the hinge folds the top completely flat. The square hooks just clear each other. The cover sags about 3/4", but seems sturdy.Then, I cut an inexpensive, carpeted doormat* to cover it from edge to edge. I used the vinyl cover as a template, which was a mistake because I missed some of the curve of the solid cover. Still, it gives me a good idea of how to proceed from here. I've purchased materials for a second cargo cover, this time using 3/8" plywood. To simplify construction, I bought two, 2'x2' sheets instead of a single 2'x4' sheet. Costs a little more, but should speed up construction and make it tighter. I've also got L-brackets (1/½") and shrink tubing to cover them.There will be more sag with the 3/8" ply than the 1/2" MDF I used in the prototype, so I'm still working out ways to cure that. One possible solution would be to add a shim to the inside of the hinged joint. Another would be to add a couple of mending plates (flat, metal strips) to the top of one side of the cover to act as a brace. Since the cover will have matting on top, these wouldn't show. *I bought two doormats. One from Home Depot (brand name "Endurance", Multy Industries) was 24" x 60" and cost $10.It is ribbed, grey felt on a rubberized base (no edge, very easy to cut with shears). The other was from Target, charcoal, 24" x 60" and cost $9. Both come rolled up.

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Quote, originally posted by binary »rubber weather stripping (half round) along the edge would make a good bumper... at least while testing it.Anyone know where I can find some of this stuff? You see it on commercial tabletops/desks. It's usually t-shaped in profile with the half-round part on top and a ridged stem that is pushed into a channel in wood. I've got a router and a couple bits that should work for that.

When I go camping we use a roll up table. You could make a cover like that. It just rolls up for storage.

Quote, originally posted by ZubenElGenubi »Anyone know where I can find some of this stuff? You see it on commercial tabletops/desks. It's usually t-shaped in profile with the half-round part on top and a ridged stem that is pushed into a channel in wood. I've got a router and a couple bits that should work for that.you should be able to find it at home depot. i've got a friend who's made a few arcade cabinets that has picked it up there before. it comes in a variety of widths, and materials ranging from hard plastic to soft rubber.

Great mod: I did the same thing for my Bronco II so I could mount some 6x9 speakers. My 2 cents to add was that I used carpet underpad then wrappped color matched fabric. It gave it that professional "pimp my ride" look. Sprayed flat black underneathThe hinge is a great idea but I'm also concerned if you have objects on the board and they become projectiles in an accident.Humm, next summer's project

Quote, originally posted by vibe-04 »The hinge is a great idea but I'm also concerned if you have objects on the board and they become projectiles in an accident.Humm, next summer's projectMythbusters saves the day!! You will NOT be Killed by the tissue box on the rear deck in an accident.

this was a concept accessory for the Toyota Voltz, but as far as we could ever find out, the accessory was never produced. THis pic shows a composite of the thing in several different positions

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Quote, originally posted by joatmon » this is a little off the topic but that is a nice color combo. now theres something GM can do for our cars give it a TRUE two tone with new colors.

Quick update:Here is a pic of the hinged cover with the doormat material on top. Again, you'll have to forgive the poor cutting job I did on the material and remember that this is just a prototype.

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Here's a picture of the hinge underneath. I purchased a 48" long hinge and cut it in half (I'll use the other half on the second cover).

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Lastly, this picture shows the amount of sag that the hinge introduces. This evening, I'm going to add a foam strip on the inside of one of the halves at the hinge. Hopefully, it will act as a shim to force the cover to be level. I think this is a better solution than what I earlier proposed (i.e., having a metal mending plate on top).

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