Thanks! While you have the headliner out, I'd highly recommend adding sound treatment (butyl) and rollers, makes a big difference and the roof resonates very easily on the vibes. Heres what I used, no smell or anything.
https://tinyurl.com/2d68c5pk Could also add closed cell foam for added sound treatment.
For wire runs, 4ga wire is the biggest wire you can run through the door floor trims, quickest, and easiest way to run the wire, only took me around a hour or so to remove the plastic bits on the floor such as the kick panel, etc, and put it back together. Power run is on the driver side to the rear. signal wires are on the passenger side.
I wouldn't recommend running wire behind the headliner as if you want to make upgrades or anything it could be a hassle, you best bet is doing it along the floor boards, which comes off with tabs.
0ga wire runs will have to be ran underneath the vehicle, away from heat or moving components, with conduit over the cable to protect it. There is 3 access holes in the rear spare tire well where you can run the wire through the inside. (NOTE: the 3 access holes are above the exhaust heatshield. You'll have to use some sort of heat resistant in that area)
This unit is a Alpine ILX W650, 400$ with the kit and harness and antenna adapter. Has reverse camera compatibility and android auto and apple carplay. 6ch preamp output 4v dc
If you ever do this upgrade, do note, if you are using factory harness and 4ch amplifier, the power antenna wire is not needed to be wired. The remote wire will be connected to blue wire with the metra harness, this wire powers up the factory amp and also powers the antenna (for FM)
Im going to be getting rid of the factory 4ch and only use low level inputs for amplifiers and rerun wires to the speakers. Most of the issues are from the factory amp (hissing, whine, etc) I've done a dedicated ground for the headunit inline with the harness ground, and it solved the turn off pop.