Hello, folks.
Just bought a pristine 1 owner (older lady) 2007 Base with 72kmi on the clock. Look forward to gaining the knowledge from and becoming a contributor to the board.
Thank you. Unfortunately this seems to be happening to all forums across the board. The forum in which I have been involved the most since the early 1990s when it had started as an email list (ASCII art for electrical schematics and all that) is a far cry from what it used to be at the peak of its glory days. Kids prefer FB for reasons that are a mystery to me. Most of us old timers who still stick to the traditional forum format just don't see a reason to post heavy technical content that is doomed to sink into the abyss of FB never to be seen again much less benefit future users.
Noted, thank you for the pointer. I typically replace all fluids wholesale after acquiring a new to me used car assuming the worst, regardless of the mileage.Bookworm wrote: ↑Fri Apr 29, 2022 5:18 pm With that little mileage, I think you'll be happy with it. Even if they were short haul miles, the engine does well with them.
The one thing I'll say is make sure to flush (not just drain and fill, unless you do it several times) the coolant system. If your heater core starts to corrode, it's a nightmare, due to very poor design choices by Toyota/Pontiac. (They _could_ have made it an insert through the firewall, held in place with bolts or sheet metal screws, instead, it's a dismantle the ENTIRE dashboard process. 8 hours vs 20 minutes)
It's very likely that the coolant is factory original.
Same with the power steering fluid, although that's less 'risky', and you'll see benefit to bleeding the brakes (it's a bit trickier if you have ABS. Some 'base' models had it in 07, some didn't)
BW
Never had luck with the above method. There always was a train of tiny bubbles in the discharge tube giving out a false positive on the air in the system which in actuality was not there. I found that when you apply negative pressure downstream of the bleeder nipple and break it loose a small amount of air would be sucked into the tube through the gap and mix up with the fluid being discharged. This is never the case when you apply positive pressure to the top of the master cylinder because the air pressure in the said circumferential gap would be positive thus pushing the air out, not negative sucking the air in.
Here you go. In the pix below the yours truly is doing the annual brake and clutch fluid replacement in the daily driver using the DIY bleeder described above. The fluid is ATE Super Blue (280°C dry boiling point) hence the colour. I alternate it with Penstosin which is green to catch the moment when the old fluid is completely displaced by the new one.Never seen anyone do a push bleed without having someone use the brake pedal, only a pull bleed.