How dangerous is this BURNED a/c blower motor CABLE

[chrishennig]

Hey all...

So, a/c blower motor stopped blowing (all speeds).

Tried replacing the resistor first, didn't fix problem.

Went to remove blower fan itself and noticed this cable was burned.

I tried cleaning some of the corrosion, plugged it back in, and it's now blowing again...

But is it safe? If not, anyone know how to replace it? Obviously if you've worked on the resistor or blower motor, not easy to reach parts. So the cable itself would be even harder to work with...anyone had to replace that cable?

Thanks for any advice.

IMG_20190103_170430_1 by Chris Hennig, on Flickr

IMG_20190103_170224 by Chris Hennig, on Flickr

IMG_20190103_170148 by Chris Hennig, on Flickr

[Bookworm]

I wouldn't be concerned about the wire. I'd be concerned about the _connector_. That's resistance/heat damage at the connector.

usually caused by corrosion on the connectors raising the resistance, then a high/continuous draw from the motor (lots of reasons for those) causing the heat to rise to the ignition point.

So, I'd advise getting a new connector set, tinning the leads properly for soldering, and go about your merry way.

[SeattleJeremy]

This is really bad. Don't use it in that condition. I'm surprised the fuse didn't blow, before causing this damage. This is likely caused by the motor drawing too much current.

Replace the blower motor and blower motor connector. Both are available at Rockauto.com or national brand auto part's stores.

[tpollauf]

Yep. That's bad BUT the motor may not be your problem. Put an inline DC ampmeter in the circuit and measure the exact amps at all speeds. If it's within specs then all is good. Simply clean up the connector (or just the melted wire and re connect it) and leave it be! As previously stated, the one side probably was not clean or greased and the connection was not the greatest which led to higher resistance (more heat) then melted.

[chrishennig]

Thanks all, so far.

While I've watched the youtube videos on replacing resistors and the blower motor itself, I don't think I can replace wires/solder.

Any type of car shop you recommend for that? I imagine GM or Toyota might charge a crazy amount. Should I look for an independent Japanese shop? Ie., is the a GM problem or a Toyota problem?

[tpollauf]

Another good example where IF your location were displayed (I understand if you're in a witness protection program) we could guide you in the right direction and possibly recommend local shops if you're near one of us here! Update profile for us. Thanks

[Bookworm]

I'd rather replace a wire connector than pull that blasted motor out (again). It's not really that difficult, but if you aren't up to trying, then knowing your limitations is good.

A car alarm shop might even be able to do it, but most _shops_ that will do it will charge close to the same sort of labour.

Also - yes. We understand that you're at an APO/DPO/FPO, but still, the car has to be somewhere near your base

[andrewclaus]

Another approach is to cut a salvaged connector out of junk Vibe, Matrix, or Corolla. An in-line splice on the pigtail is a much easier job than installing a new connector.

I agree, this looks like one bad joint, not an overload issue. If it were overload, both sides of the connector would be damaged. But checking with an ammeter is a good idea anyway.

[SeattleJeremy]

chrishennig, any independent shop can complete this work in a short amount of time. I'm no expert here, but the "book time" on this should be an hour or less.

andrewclaus, the Matrix and Corolla have a different heater blowers, and different connectors.

Changing the connector is a pretty straight forward job. The "connector kit" is the wire with the connector and insulated crimp connectors for around $12 + shipping here https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... 60&jsn=421

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery
2. Unplug the connector from the blower motor
3. Look at the new and old connector\cables, and note the orientation of the connectors, so when you connect them back up the power flows in the right direction.
4. Line up the new wire with the existing wire (leave an extra inch for trimming the plastic back), and cut the old wire connector off.
5. Use a set of wire strippers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2WCN2W/ and strip the ends of all four wires.
6. Use the wire strippers to crimp the wires back together, keeping step 4 in mind.
7. Plug the new connector back in to the blower
8. Connect the battery.
9. Test

[chrishennig]

Thanks SeattleJeremy...I may give it a try then.

Double checking, it's not this part? https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts ... s-88970281

Or is that the cable that actually plugs into the resistor?


Thanks again, y'all.

[Bookworm]

That's the full harness - https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/pont ... 70281.html

The rockauto link was just for the connector you need to attach to the blower, to replace the burned out connector.

[chrishennig]

Thanks again, all, for the help on this.

Finally got around to swapping the cable out tonight. Also swapped out the fan as it had been making a strange noise, possibly related to orig cable but hard to tell.

Man...not easy working under that dashboard!

Vibe on.

[SeattleJeremy]

Hurray! Glad you got it fixed up. You're right working under the dash it a chore.

[Bookworm]

Hurray! Glad you got it fixed up. You're right working under the dash it a chore.

A chore, you say? I'd call it penitence. I don't know what I did, but it had to have been a DOOZY, as I've spent hours under the passenger side, radio disassembled, contorted, and using thumb sockets.