Other than the obvious of painting it on the damages area, what else do you do? Do you buff it after it dries? How about polishing and waxing it? I would like the repair to be INVISIBLE.
The way I have found that works the best and also looks the best is to wash the car or at least wash the area you will be trying to repair. Apply the touch up paint until your satified that you have filled in the scratch or chip. Let it dry. To be on the safe side I'd let it dry over night. At this point the paint is now dry but you can see where you repaired the scratch or chip because the paint isn't level. What I mean is the touch up paint is probably a little higher than the rest of the finish so it's visable. It's better that the touch up paint is at a higher level than the rest of the car because this can be buffed flush and no one will then notice.The product I talk about below this has work wonders on my vehicle. I use a high speed drill and buffing attachment purchased at Walmart and made by 3M. Apply the product to the buffer wheel then put the buffing wheel on the car where your trying to buff. Start the drill and use semi hard pressure until the paint is then flush. make sure you keep lots of the rubbing compond on the buffing pad.This is how I repair my vehicles surface and the places I have repaired no one will ever know anything was ever wrong.If you got any questions just ask me. I can walk you through it.Quoting myself from another post.quote:The best stuff I have ever used is 3MProfessional FormulaPerfect-it IIRubbing CompoundFine CutIt's clear coat safe. I had some jerk key my car down to the white primer. The car is black! It looked like crap. I got some touch up paint and applied it. The next day I used a rotory buffer and the 3M rubbing compound and removed the excess paint that was noticable, dew to the fact that the touch up paint is higher than the paint surface of the car. I polished it smooth with the surface and you can't tell it was ever scratched. I have done this with chips also.I had some fine swirl marks on the front of my hood that I just buffed out with this stuff.You don't need a rotory buffer but it really helps. The directions say you can apply it by hand though. You'll really have to work it in by hand. I use a drill with a form adapter, I bought from walmart. 3M makes this attachment for drills. It runs around $7.00 for the drill attachment and then $5 or $6 for the foam attachment. Then your drill is like a $150 rotory buffer.I have used Meguiar's Scratch-X and it works ok but the 3M product works better. I bought it from Pep Boys auto parts store. It ran me about $8.00. Very worth the money.