Peak LongLife Antifreeze

[JustinVGT]

Has anyone used Peak LongLife Antifreeze Coolant? I've been calling around for prices on getting my coolant flushed since it was supposed to be done around 30k miles and I am now around 45k. Jiffylube has the best price at $70 and they use that coolant. Here is Peak's website: http://www.peakantifreeze.com/peak_longlife.html .I'm assuming it should be just fine. I looked into the Toyota dealer for the Toyota coolant that people have recommended, but they charge $130. Does it really make a difference on what is used after the shop does a complete flush? I'm hearing mixed things about Dex-cool, some say avoid it, others say it's ok.

[JustinVGT]

Well, I just verified with Jiffylube whether or not they do a complete coolant system flush. They only flush the radiator, not the entire cooling system. Maybe this explains why they are so much cheaper than the competition. Is it important to get the entire system flushed, especially if the coolant type is changed?

[vibecrxsi240sxse]

To revive a nearly 2 yr old thread...Did a full flush yesterday (being very careful to catch the old fluid in a big drain pan). I used my neighbor's flush kit to connect into both heater core inlets on the firewall. Did the top line first and then the bottom. Flushed until all the pink stuff came out.. got clear water finally.Peak long life was the new stuff to go in. It was $10 per gallon and my 04' says capacity is 7.9 quarts (basically 2 gallons).So I just slowly filled the radiator with the entire gallon of Peak, ultimately getting probably a 53% antifreeze/ 47% water mix.Remembered to turn on the heater full blast for a while to get it full of coolant too. Kinda scared me for a little while because it took quite a while for the heat to come on. Then it hit full blast. Then, it blew HOT and cool alternately, which I figured the coolant level had dropped in the radiator (which it had). Once I topped it off, the heater ran full hot with no change in temp. I guess the heater core was now full..Outside temp was about 88 degrees, so running the heat was really the last thing I wanted to do, but... gotta get it right. Anyone who can change their own oil can do this process for about 10 bucks, 20 bucks if you buy the Toyota red replacement.

[djb383]

Be sure to check the level in the radiator (engine cold) for several days just to make sure it has "burped" and coolant is at the top, again check only when cold. Also check the coolant in the overflow bottle, when cold, for a level somewhere between low and full.

[Sublimewind]

I have been told by many different people, from many different places (astrosafari.com, NASIOC.com my Subaru board, a mechanic friend of mine and various other car people i know) TO NEVER USE THE LONG LIFE STUFF... it will end up eating your gaskets. My mechanic friend said "use the green stuff" he didn't recommend a brand or anything, he just was very adamant about just using the green stuff.... Yes, you have to change it more, but in the end your better off. You can take it for what it is, someones opinion...

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by vibecrxsi240sxse »To revive a nearly 2 yr old thread...Did a full flush yesterday (being very careful to catch the old fluid in a big drain pan). I used my neighbor's flush kit to connect into both heater core inlets on the firewall. Did the top line first and then the bottom. Flushed until all the pink stuff came out.. got clear water finally.Peak long life was the new stuff to go in. It was $10 per gallon and my 04' says capacity is 7.9 quarts (basically 2 gallons).So I just slowly filled the radiator with the entire gallon of Peak, ultimately getting probably a 53% antifreeze/ 47% water mix.Remembered to turn on the heater full blast for a while to get it full of coolant too. Kinda scared me for a little while because it took quite a while for the heat to come on. Then it hit full blast. Then, it blew HOT and cool alternately, which I figured the coolant level had dropped in the radiator (which it had). Once I topped it off, the heater ran full hot with no change in temp. I guess the heater core was now full..Outside temp was about 88 degrees, so running the heat was really the last thing I wanted to do, but... gotta get it right. Anyone who can change their own oil can do this process for about 10 bucks, 20 bucks if you buy the Toyota red replacement.When you did your flush, did you use the garden hose? If so, you need to re-do it with distilled water, the various chemicals and minerals in "house" water can cause issues with chemicals in the coolant. Also, when finished and "burping the system, do you "massage" the upper radiator hose at all? Another thing you may wish to consider to make sure you got all the air out.... Just food for thought... Cheers

[djb383]

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »I have been told by many different people, from many different places (astrosafari.com, NASIOC.com my Subaru board, a mechanic friend of mine and various other car people i know) TO NEVER USE THE LONG LIFE STUFF... it will end up eating your gaskets. My mechanic friend said "use the green stuff" he didn't recommend a brand or anything, he just was very adamant about just using the green stuff.... Yes, you have to change it more, but in the end your better off. You can take it for what it is, someones opinion... Can you buy anything today that's not THE LONG LIFE STUFF? I've been to Autozone, Oriely's, Advance, NAPA and Walmart and every brand they sell says EXTENDED LIFE 5 year/150K miles compatible with any make, brand or color and all metals. I think the reason the long life stuff was developed was because people are too lazy to change coolant once a year. Some people are too lazy to change coolant every 5 years and blame the old rotten coolant when a gasket starts to leak.

[Sublimewind]

Well, yes.... basic green? the "cheap" stuff... I'm talking about the "dex-cool" orange or the pink stuff.... I had a few bottles of the Peak Global "pink" and my mechanic friends said "take it back" get the green... They say compatible, i know, but that doesn't mean they are "good"Again, i'm just going off of what someone said who works in a shop that IS NOT a dealership, so they get EVERYTHING in the shop, not just a single brand.... so he had a wide range of "statistical" insight...

[djb383]

So, according to "someone that works in a shop", are my vehicles doomed because I filled them with long, or extended life coolant, that is green? Yep, it's green, but it ain't the cheep stuff 'cause the parts stores, around here anyway, only carry name brand extended life coolants.........in different colors, I might add.

[jake75]

There is more confusion and misinformation on coolants than just about anything else. The dealer replaced the orginal coolant in my '03, which they said was Dexcool, with Dexcool. But if it was Dexcool why does the owners' manual say to replace at 24 months since Dexcool is a 60 month coolant. Of course if you replace Dexcool at 24 months you probably will not have the Dexcool problems that have been widely publicized. At my low 6,000 annual mileage rate I am going to wait until 60 months (that's 36 months from the last flush & fill) for the 2nd flush and fill unless there is a good dealer special like last time ($60).

[VivaVibe]

I think your shop friend is trying to drum up business for all the late models cars that will be ruined; or just is not informed about the latest coolants.According to several research articles linked to prior threads here, things changed around the 2000 model year. Sorry I don't remember the thread, but a search should turn up the info. There are several articles, and some that are not manufacturer produced.What I remember is that the cheap green stuff is generally the older version of coolant. All cars after about 2000 require a newer version, and the colors were used to try to disguish them from the older type and for manufacturer ID.As has been mentioned, the color thing has kind of gotten out of hand and is no longer a good marker for the type of coolant. Unless you have an older car, I would highly recommend you use the type of coolant (not the color) recommended by the vehicle maker.From everything I have read, the best coolant for our Vibe is the Toyota Red; it is after all a Toyota engine. However, my OM of course recommends the GM version.

[Sublimewind]

Actually, he HATES working on the late model cars (he rather burn out on auto repair) I wish i could remember more of the specifics he mentioned.... I can't remember the model, but there is a GM mini van that comes in and almost every time there is a complant about overheating or coolant loss, it's the rear (V6) head gasket (something GM is in a class action law suit ATM IIRC) which is under the intake... I donno, without it being fresh in my head (i haven't talked to him in a few months) I can't say... I can say he replaces the new long life stuff (factory) with green... Best i got, do with it what you will...

[chevelle_lover]

The van in question is the 99 - 03 Lumina/Transport or whatever they call it. I have been using the longlife for a while but I use the non-toxic stuff in my three road worthy vehicles. I have a dog so the non-toxic stuff just gives him an upset stomach but no death.

[mike7311]

The engine was the issue. The 3.4 OHV V6 (now 3.5) is notrious for blowing lower intake manifold gaskets. On average it costs 800.00 to repair, usually around 60k. I found personally that dexcool is the problem, the gasket sits between aluminum and cast iron (different expansion rates). When the engine gets hot and cold the coolant goes to work eating the gasket, getting between and then breaking the seal. They don't call it deathcool for nothing... There is reason why the manufacter tells you to change out more frequently if you drive in severe conditions, which is basically all conditions.cars affectedChevroletmalibucavalierventure monte carloimpalaUplanderEquinoxBuickcenturyrendevousterranzaOldsmobileAlerosilhottePontiacGrand PrixGrand amTransport vanTorrentSorry if I left any out.