Can’t help much with the high idle off the top of my head, but I think I can help you diagnose the noise/vibration...
To check the wheel bearings, jack the car up, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o clock positions, and shake the tire in and out/up and down. If there’s any movement that wheel bearing is bad. If you do the same thing with the 9 and 3 o clock positions, that’ll tell ya if your inner/outer tie rods are bad.
Either test can also be used to find loose balljoints/lower control arm bushings. For those you’ll need another set of eyes watching every joint/bushing as you shake. If any are loose, they need replaced. If nothing is loose, odds are you need an alignment or have a bent wheel. Could also be a bad strut but you said you already checked those.
Back to wheel bearings though, a bearing doesn’t necessarily have to be loose to make noise, and if they’re loose they may not always make noise. But any movement at all is too much. Hopefully that helps you out there.
Another bearing to check is the passenger side CV axle bearing where the half shaft bolts to the engine block. There’s no good way to test it on the car in a home garage, usually we put the car up on the lift at work with someone in it, and someone underneath. Get the wheels spinning about 35-40 mph and listen to the bearing with a mechanic stethoscope. You’ll be able to clearly hear a roaring noise through the ‘scope. The best way to test it safely without a lift is to pull that axle, and feel the bearing by hand. Spin it a little bit and if it feels gritty/loose that would be a cause of your noise.
Hopefully SOMETHING in here is useful haha
“I don’t do nothing well.” -Keith