I've kept a good eye on my cv joints due to my previous problems with them. I've seen how to remove the timing chain tensioner, but I'm a little scared to play around with such a delicate thing as the timing chain. I saw you need to "rotate the crankshaft" so the tensioner will spring back out, but I don't know how to do that.lannvouivre wrote:Replace the thermostat and the timing chain tensioner, then look everything over that you can, like the suspension bushings and CV join boots, etc. Only the thermostat and tensioner can really just go out without warning. Oh, and the starter, but usually it fails over the course of a couple of days.
I don't really recommend just throwing parts at it since most of the parts you can wait for the replacement part to arrive and replace it without getting into trouble; usually the parts will wear out and give you ample warning.
I certainly agree on that belt tensioner... I had my mechanic replace the original serpentine belt at 89k (Goodyear Gatorback on there now.) I didn't have him bother with the belt tensioner.gtv237 wrote:Cheaper belts seem to dry out and squeak quicker. I would definitely do the tensioner and water pump as well. These things just wear out.
I bought a dayco belt. Only thing the parts store had that was a duralast with a one year warranty. The dayco is a 3 year warrantycptnsolo77 wrote:Definitely go with the Goodyear belt. Much quieter...when i changed my belt tensioner I swapped to the goodyear belt as well.
You can turn it by (with the accessory drive belt on) turning the alternator pulley anti-clockwise. DO NOT go clockwise, or it will jump teeth.GaryG92 wrote:So I'm guessing with the timing chain tensioner, once I get it in and I need to release the latch, all I do is to the crank shaft pulley? Is there any chance of messing up the timing chain or anything else pretty bad like that?
I'm not a mechanic in the slightest. I just enjoy working on my cars, fixing stuff up, and saving money. I want this car to last me a longgggg time which is why I'm doing so much for it.
The alternator pulley runs clockwise, right?lannvouivre wrote:You can turn it by (with the accessory drive belt on) turning the alternator pulley anti-clockwise. DO NOT go clockwise, or it will jump teeth.GaryG92 wrote:So I'm guessing with the timing chain tensioner, once I get it in and I need to release the latch, all I do is to the crank shaft pulley? Is there any chance of messing up the timing chain or anything else pretty bad like that?
I'm not a mechanic in the slightest. I just enjoy working on my cars, fixing stuff up, and saving money. I want this car to last me a longgggg time which is why I'm doing so much for it.
Yes. You have to go backwards, though, or the tensioner will release too late. It should click out almost immediately. Make sure you pump the tensioner up with motor oil before you install it. You just dip it in some oil and press in the ratcheting plunger a few times. There should be a guide somewhere, but the point is, you want to make sure you turn the crankshaft backwards because if it goes forward, the chain could get too much slack before the tensioner gets released.GaryG92 wrote:The alternator pulley runs clockwise, right?
Thanks for the info. How much oil normally comes out when I remove the tensioner? Should I do this while I'm doing an oil change?lannvouivre wrote:Yes. You have to go backwards, though, or the tensioner will release too late. It should click out almost immediately. Make sure you pump the tensioner up with motor oil before you install it. You just dip it in some oil and press in the ratcheting plunger a few times. There should be a guide somewhere, but the point is, you want to make sure you turn the crankshaft backwards because if it goes forward, the chain could get too much slack before the tensioner gets released.GaryG92 wrote:The alternator pulley runs clockwise, right?
EDIT: http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/14/201j8c04/x040001.pdf
Page 8 of the PDF. I do it from the alternator because the crank is a pain to reach.
When I did mine, no oil came out. I recommend silicone gasket around the O-ring so it doesn't leak later. All you need to remove is the tensioner itself. You loosen both nuts on it, get it to come loose (it will try to spring out, hence leaving the nuts on), and then remove it. I had to feel for it because I'm too short to see it.GaryG92 wrote:Thanks for the info. How much oil normally comes out when I remove the tensioner? Should I do this while I'm doing an oil change?
I've seen it before, and felt around that area. I think I might take my hood off when I do this job.lannvouivre wrote:When I did mine, no oil came out. I recommend silicone gasket around the O-ring so it doesn't leak later. All you need to remove is the tensioner itself. You loosen both nuts on it, get it to come loose (it will try to spring out, hence leaving the nuts on), and then remove it. I had to feel for it because I'm too short to see it.GaryG92 wrote:Thanks for the info. How much oil normally comes out when I remove the tensioner? Should I do this while I'm doing an oil change?
I used the ultra copper that I had lying around from the oil pan.GaryG92 wrote:Is there any specific silicone gasket you'd recommend?
"copper spray-a-gasket, high temp sealant" by permatex? I bought a can of that a bit ago for whenever I drop my tranny pan.lannvouivre wrote:I used the ultra copper that I had lying around from the oil pan.GaryG92 wrote:Is there any specific silicone gasket you'd recommend?
Keep in mind that you can totally lie on top of the engine if you have to. I always have to do that because I'm really, really small.