Out of curiosity, if the lens has a small crack on the edge, could it be resealed?
Would you agree to debris acceptance? 2003 Vibe GTMods installed GM Top and Mid-Gate Spoilers, Cosmo CAI, TWM Short Shifter with Desert Eagle weighted shift knob, TWM Bronzoil Shifter Cable Bushings, Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust, Unichip, Injen Billet Aluminum Engine/Sparkplug covers and oil cap, Optima RedTop Battery, Lineage Ground Wire KitAwaiting install: Energy Suspension Motor Mounts, DC Sports Header
2004 Vibe - Silver - Moon n tunes - retired - 1 of a kind according to vin / rpo decoder2009 Vibe - 2.4l -frrosty - Moon n tunes - roof rack - 17" Alloys - 1 of 6 according to vin / rpo decoder
I can vouch for PlastX. Works like a charm. You may have to use a fine grit sand paper if the stains are etched in, then polish with PLastx. But for the most part PlastX does wonders on its own.I also polished my instrument panel cluster with it as well. You'd swear you could reach out and touch the speedo with nothing in between.
Everything that we see is a shadow cast by that which we do not see. - Martin Luther King, Jr.
I am finding it hard to believe you have a problem with the inside of the lens as it is a sealed unit and should not have scuffing or markings. Typically all this occurs outside and some Meguiar's Plast X on a buff pad will work wonders.I use my Meg's G100 DA Orbital Polisher with a 8006 pad on Speed 5. Put the product on in a X pattern on the pad and go to work on the light. Sometimes 2 applications are necessary.If you run into the problem of the haze still being there, you may need more serious work. this will require several wet sand paper pieces ranging from very fine to fine. Start with the fine and go up to very fine working gently (it's not a piece of wood). Keeping the surface wet and the paper as well at all times and wiping with a rag constantly. Then once you are done with the very fine, move to a buff pad and use swirl/scratch remover on a buffer, then polish, then wax.