best for washing and waxing

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Sat Jul 08, 2006 11:46 pm

Hello forum, I thought I would ask about what is the best stuff to use out there. Would using a buffer be the best idea? Also does anyone go to an automatic touchless car wash to wash there vibe or no? Does anyone wash the machine at home? I know I'm going to get 1,000+ plus answers but I just want to know what stuff avoid and what is really good.thanks,Ben ramler

scott_h · Post by **scott_h** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 1:13 am

I usually try to wash our cars at home. When in a pinch (or in the winter) we'll use a touchless car wash.As far as products, I'm a big fan of Maguiars all around. I bought a huge jug of the soap at either Sam's or Costco - don't remember which. When I wash, I use two mits and buckets. I start with one bucket, and wash the tires and bottom panel to get all the real grimy stuff off - rolling around the car on a wheeled seat. Then I wash the whole care with the second bucket. That way if you get any sand particles or anything in your wash mit from the lower panels, you aren't dragging them across your paint on the rest of the car. I try to wax about once a month, but seem to be lacking this year. The Maquiars NXT is very good stuff. About twice a year, I clay each car, followed by Maquiars #7 polish, then NXT wax.It's a lot of work if you want to do it "right", but it sure is nice to look at a freshly detailed car!

2006_Salsa · Post by **2006_Salsa** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 1:16 am

Meguiar's NXT

northvibe · Post by **northvibe** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 4:39 am

I just hand wash them in the summer with a sheep wool hand thingy and soft hand soap. Then I used Mothers California Clay Bar Kit and DAAANNGG way better than just wash and wax, it got all the little tiny bumps off the clear coat / paint. It was silky smooth and I washed the from end up today because bugs from the hwy were all over it and they came off pretty easy. Consumer Reports just did a thing on car wax in this months issue, wish I had a scanner.... But for liquid wax the best was Black Magic. I bought it for my rents this weekend and did both their cars, they look sharp but like I said not as silky smooth as mine there were still tiny bumps on the clear coat.

JohnC · Post by **JohnC** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 8:36 am

Try this link.http://www.autopia-carcare.com/index.html

GMJAP · Post by **GMJAP** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:00 am

Quote, originally posted by 2006_Salsa Â»Meguiar's NXT Third the Meguiars NXT - both wash & wax. I saw the CR article and the Black Magic might be worth a try.I put on the wax with a random orbit buffer after using Meguiars Deep Crystal system Polish (Step 2 - but I don't use the other steps).Polish should be applied and wiped off in straight lines - otherwise it can bring out swirls that you want to hide.I also use the Mother's CA Gold clay bar, but just on areas that feel rough or for really dirty areas - like lots of bugs on the front (after washing as much off as possible.) I don't have time to clay bar the whole car!You didn't ask, but I recommend Vinylex for the interior (dash & plastics). A lot of other stuff, even good brands like Meguiars and of course Armor-All have silicone and formaldehydes. Both are bad for the dash over time and can cause cracking.Finally - NEVER clean the gauge windows with anything paper-based! They scratch very easily and it will scratch them.

northvibe · Post by **northvibe** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:11 am

good tips gmjap! ill go check out that interior cleaner

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 10:35 am

Hi Northvibe, I was wondering if I can IM you and ask some questions to you off the forum whenever we can?thank you,Benny

scott_h · Post by **scott_h** » Sun Jul 09, 2006 11:57 am

Quote, originally posted by GMJAP Â»I don't have time to clay bar the whole car!For a full wash/clay/polish/wax, it takes me about 4-5 hours (per car). Make sure you have access to a massage when you're done.

northvibe · Post by **northvibe** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 12:19 am

Benny - sure just send me a pm scott_h - hahha yea it does take a while and hurts when your done! luckily mine is a two tone so I dont have to do the bottom part with clay bar, but it still took me like 3 hours, well worth it on a nice saturday/sunday.

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 3:04 am

stupid question, what is a clay bar? I've never heard of them before.Ben

northvibe · Post by **northvibe** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 3:40 am

Benny - A clay bar is almost like a soft eraser or putty. Its used with they detail spray. You spray the area with the detail spray then rub with the clay bar, it removes all the bumps and sticky stuff from the clear coat. This makes the clear coat super smooth. once the car is fully clay bar'd you wax it. It was good for me because I drive to duluth and the twin cities almost everyweekend and my car is full of dried bug guts! this took them all off and its like a silky car now

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 3:48 am

Thank you Northvibe again. I sent you an email msg at your hotmail account oK?

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Mon Jul 10, 2006 11:05 pm

Northvibe and group, by having a smooth surfaces of a vehicle shouldn't that vehcile be more aerodynamicly clean? or no? I'm a wannabe pilot.

scott_h · Post by **scott_h** » Tue Jul 11, 2006 9:19 am

Quote, originally posted by Benny Â» what is a clay bar? I've never heard of them before.Considering the average person hardly even waxes their car, many have never heard of clay. It does make a huge difference though. Make the surface unbelievably smooth, and when you follow it up with a quality polish/wax, it will be smooth as glass...I usually clay each car twice a year - early spring to get the lovely MN winter grime off, and mid to late fall to prepare for that same MN winter grime. This sounds goofy, but for anyone that's never tried it, take a basic ziplock bag, put your hand in it, and rub it across the surface of your car. If you clay, do the same right after you clay a small section. You will be sold on clay'ing from that moment forward (if you weren't already).

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 9:53 am

where's the best place to get a clay bar and how do they cost? I think for wax i might use turtle wax. Hey powered buffers are only $30 or so here locally. Not bad. Does that work for waxing also. do you polish before wax or maybe some can educate me.

binary · Post by **binary** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 11:14 am

Most places that have a good selection of car care products AutoZone, etc ... or your big box shops like wal-mart, Farm & Fleet (or Fleet Farm... depending on where you live)...Expect to pay about $10-$15 for the bar and a spray of quick detailer that you'll use to lubricate the surface you'll be working on.Search the forums - others have posted good instructions on how to do it. If you can't find them - just follow the instructions in the box, it's not difficult, just a bit time consuming.One thing to remember - hand wash your car. No matter how many quarters you feed the touchless pressure washers - it'll never get all the dirt/grime off.

scott_h · Post by **scott_h** » Sun Jul 23, 2006 1:11 pm

I read a post a few years ago from someone that tried several different brands of clay bars. He rated ClayMagic as the best. I know he tried Mother's as well, but can't remember what other ones.I believe ClayMagic is only around $9.99 at AutoZone.I personally wouldn't use Turtle Wax. I'm a huge fan of Maguiars products. If you really want to get a great surface shine and protection, use both a polish and wax. I love Maquiars #7 polish followed by NXT synthetic wax.Another thing to mention is that claying does take time, but it truly makes the waxing go faster. The wax honestly comes off the surface easier after hit has been clayed.Make sure that if you're going to clay, you get a coat of wax on before you drive it. The clay will pull off every ounce of protective coating.

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 6:50 am

I guess I don't understand. your post can you clarify?

scott_h · Post by **scott_h** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 11:53 am

Quote, originally posted by Benny Â»I guess I don't understand. your post can you clarify?You don't understand which part? Not trying to be a smart a@@ - just want to clarify the right part...

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 12:52 am

nevermind maybe I misread it some how.

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 12:53 am

what do you mean the clay pulls off ever ounce of coating?

Benny · Post by **Benny** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:01 am

Hey Northvibe, do you apply a polish also or no? And then for everybody is it a good idea to apply a polish if so, why or why not?

scott_h · Post by **scott_h** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:36 am

Quote, originally posted by Benny Â»And then for everybody is it a good idea to apply a polish if so, why or why not?Here's the polish that I apply - polish should go on prior to wax: http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-p...Glaze

scott_h · Post by **scott_h** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 8:38 am

Quote, originally posted by Benny Â»what do you mean the clay pulls off ever ounce of coating?All of the protective coating from waxes/etc are removed in the clay'ing process. There will be absolutely no protection for your paint surface left. So I would never clay unless you are sure that you'll be waxing (at a minimum) prior to taking the car on the road.

best for washing and waxing

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