Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

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Derf
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Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by Derf »

When switched to steel wheels for winter last fall, knew that I would be refinishing the OEM aluminum rims. 9 years of driving on salted roads by the previous owner, rims were leaking, pock marked, paint blistering, and overall looked pretty rough. After a winter of research came to the conclusion that refinishing rims is a hotly debated item. Was looking at dropping them off to get refinished using the following process:
https://detroitwheelandtire.com/pvd-what
Local rates are $150+ per wheel to refinish.
Looking at refinishing them myself, a lot cheaper but time consuming. Method that seems to consistent among many posts
-Sandblast
-Treat aluminum
-two base coats to adhere and seal aluminum
-Coat of finish
-Clear coat

Video showing basic steps in the process.
https://www.youtube.com/edit?video_id=Z ... rrer=watch

For the project wanted to use basic items that might be in typical garage, so others could complete without purchasing specialized equipment. The items many would still need to hire out are tire removal and sandblasting. As of 2015, most tire shops will remove a tire for $3-$7 per wheel, note if you plan to put new tires on, you may be stuck with the old tires at time of removal if you do not buy the new tires at that time (some states have funny laws about how used tires are recycled or disposal fees). Ask about disposal options for your old tires. Sandblasting requires some rather large equipment, typically large two stage air compressor, sandblasting rig, proper safety gear, large open space, neighbors that don't mind compressor running for hours on end, and large amounts of dust. Depending on your area, commercial sandblasting goes for $85-$150 per hour. Since these shops specialize in large volume blasting, they could have the rims done a lot quicker. On a good day a large shop might be able to blast 4 rims in about an hour.

Looking over various products, went with the following package. Big thing, whatever products you use, complete paint samples to confirm color match and primer, color, top coat compatibility. Sticking with one brand of paint will help.
Metal Prep - http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Metal-Prep_p_15.html
Base coat - http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preven ... g_p_8.html
Top coat / color coat - http://www.por15.com/TOP-COAT_p_102.html
Clear Coat - http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC_p_45.html

Started the process early spring by sandblasting the rims. Wanted to get the project done before bugs came out, landing on the freshly painted rims. Average set of 4 rims took about 4 bags of blasting media and about 3 hours to complete (a commercial shop will have larger equipment and could do in a fraction of the time). I recycled the media while blasting, making sure to get rubber, tar, and other material removed from the rim. If your tire shop left the valve stems, just use a sharp knife to cut the inner flange, then pull until the stems pull in two. Make sure to blast all the indentations and stem holes.

Next washed the rims to remove blasting media. After drying, sprayed with metal prep, let soak, rinsed, and let dry. While drying built a jig with saw horses and lumber to mount the rims. Rather than hang from wire, wanted to get all exposed surfaces painted continuously without gaps. Since the air inside the tire is usually low humidity and stays clean, not painting the inner center of the rim will have the least impact. If your tire shops fills the tires with nitrogen the impact is further reduced.

The paint I used has some special characteristics. The 2nd primer layer and color layer must be applied while the initial primer layer is tacky for proper bonding. If the primer layer dries before getting the next coat, it must be sanded prior to painting. Also the primer coat dries in 2-4 hours so re-coating happens quickly. The product I used it water activated, the more humid the day, the faster the primer dries. The primer is also UV sensitive so it must be top coated. For all paint layers I used gloves, long sleeve jacket, and respirator.

After the water dried, mounted the rims to jig and started to paint the primer coats. The product I used is self leveling, so brush strokes will disappear. However use a fine bristle brush. Initially I used a cheap natural fiber brush, the bristles were stiff and large, so if left deep brush strokes, which faintly showed up in the initial top coat process. (My test sample was laying flat on a cool day, so the brush stroked disappeared completely, when I painted the rims the temp was 15* warmer, humidity was about 40% more, and rims were vertical so the brush strokes didn't completely disappear) The finer the brush the better, you could then avoid wet sanding to remove brush strokes. Be careful when painting edges and lug holes, to avoid drips and runs. I started painting the back of the rim, working the product into holes etc, then moved to the front to smooth away any runs. After moving to the next rim, kept checking on the previous rim for drips or sags. Found using both a 1" and 2" brush worked best, 1" for lug holes and indentations, 2" for all other surfaces.

While the 2nd coat of primer is still tacky, applied the top color coat. This was out of a spray can, make sure to apply a light tack coat, let partially dry then work on two more coats keeping a wet surface to allow the top coat to flow (not drip) providing a smooth even color. I recommended practicing on a scrap piece with the spray can before painting the rims, will give you a better idea of coverage from the spray tip and how easy the product flows.

After the top color coat was applied and dried for 3 days, I wet sanded to remove any imperfections, dried, and top re-coated. If you are careful when applying the primer you can skip sanding and reapplying the color coat. At this point I also wet sanded the center caps so they would be ready for clear coating.

After the top coat dried for 3 days, applied the clear coat. The product I used had a quick set time and is also self leveling, so it can be brushed on. Mixed two batches of clear coat to prevent set time issues. I brushed on the 1st coat to rims 1 and 2, then applied the 2nd coat to rims 1 and 2 before moving to rims 3 and 4. After both clear coats layers have been applied, they are tack free in about an hour, but the product requires 3-4 days to fully cure. If not in a hurry, I would wait 7 days. From the sample I did, had some cool nights which delayed the final cure time. Plus your tire shop will likely lay down the rims or roll them across the floor, the harder the finish the better.

Overall the project went well. Achieved the main objective of sealing the aluminum rims, preventing slow tire leaks and paint blistering. Had some issues with using to course a brush, paint set time, and some over spray after wet sanding. This left the finish a little less than perfect. But hopefully these tips will prevent others from repeating those mistakes and needing to wet sand.

List of items used for 4 average rims:
Sandblast media - 4 bags
Metal Prep - about a quart
Base coat/Primer - just over a pint, so need a quart
Top coat - one can came close to completing, but need two in case you run into issues
Clear Coat - one pint
1" fine bristle brush - 4
2" fine bristle brush - 4
Clean metal soup cans -4
Good respirator
Plenty of nitrile or latex gloves

Overall, refinishing the rims with the products I used and doing your own sandblasting will cost about $200. Hiring out the sandblasting will add another $100 plus. The process used may still seem expensive, but rims take a lot of abuse, spin at over 1000 rpm, get hit with road debris, and cutting though rain and ice. The finish I used should well outlast the vehicle.

Anyone else strip and refinish their aluminum rims in the past? If so, how long ago and how are they holding up to weather/salt?
Last edited by Derf on Mon Jun 01, 2015 7:09 pm, edited 3 times in total.
2005 #10,524 Neptune Vibe "Bandit" Auto, Moon & Tunes 235k :D
1991 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8L "Granny's Whip" 142k (33nd Anniversary :o )
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vibrologist
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by vibrologist »

I did the rims of a '00 Ford Contour this way: I bought a good set of used tires. I removed the wheels and had the old tires and valve stems taken off.

That night I sanded the beads and valve seats with sand paper and coated the sanded parts with Krylon Clear from the rattle can. Next day I had the tires mounted. They hold the air very well. Before I had to pump up every 3 to 5 weeks with one of them going down pretty bad. Now it is 3 times a year. I did not worry about the exterior looks of the rims.
Vibrologist
'05 Vibe

"It is important to know the difference between 'accurate' and 'precise' even if you are neither!"

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max1057
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by max1057 »

I refinished my '07s alloy wheels about 2yrs ago. I jacked up one side at a time and removed wheels. Popped out center caps. Taped around rim and taped paper to cover the wheels. You can use a small paint scraper to scrape the chips and bubbles in finish. Be careful, the aluminum is kinda soft, it scratches easily. then I used a soft wire wheel to clean it up a little better. You don't have to get every bit of paint off, but scuff it up with sandpaper for good adhesion. It's ready to be painted. Started out with Rustoleum Automobile Primer [gray]. Two coats. Then I sprayed Rustoleum High Performance Wheel paint. Two coats. Then I sprayed Rustoleum High Performance Wheel clear coat. Two coats. Done. 2yrs. later 2 Michigan winters still look good. One note about the wheel paint. There were 2 silver colored caps I believe and I went with the lightest color and it matched perfectly. The clear coat was just a clear cap. It didn't say clear coat on the can. Buy 2 cans for each process. Cost. Less than $50. Labor. Somewhat intense but not too bad. Just take your time.
Derf
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by Derf »

Problem is two rims are corroded to the point the tires no longer seal, creating slow leaks. Figure the other rims are not far behind. For this project have to go deeper to refinish the aluminum to prevent leaking tire beads.
2005 #10,524 Neptune Vibe "Bandit" Auto, Moon & Tunes 235k :D
1991 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8L "Granny's Whip" 142k (33nd Anniversary :o )
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Pdxglocker9mm
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by Pdxglocker9mm »

Any one use hamerite?
It comes in a few colors I think I am going to do my steel wheels (winter tires)first in the darker silver hamerite I am pretty sure it will be better than the oem black crap paint that washes off where the wheel covers don't...cover. Then a 14 dollar set of lug nuts and I might just throw out the original wheel covers. Now if I could just figure out some sort of center hub cap in chrome I would be super happy. Any one know if like a Corolla has some HUB caps that fit vibe matrix wheels. I tried to find some that push thru the back from trailer places with no luck. In the summer I run 2012 Corolla alloy wheels with the toyota center caps. Some day I will have to refinish the alloy wheels too.
Derf
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by Derf »

Have not used Hamerite, looks like most of their finishes feature a dried crackle texture. Were you looking at any particular color?

Just over half way done with refinished the OEM aluminum rims, so far so good. Will post a video once finished with a few tips and lessons learned. Wanted to be done two weeks ago.... but other items came up. Can't wait to put the winter wheels back into storage.

Pics of the progress, sandblasted left, as removed right:
rim_sandblasted.jpg
rim_sandblasted.jpg (40.45 KiB) Viewed 5805 times
Paint samples, picked four aluminum colors, painted rough plate, then tested clear coat finish. With only one day dry time between color and clear coat some streaking occurred. Learned that needed to wait about three days before first clear coat application.
rim_paint.jpg
rim_paint.jpg (21.64 KiB) Viewed 5805 times
Last edited by Derf on Sun Oct 18, 2015 1:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
2005 #10,524 Neptune Vibe "Bandit" Auto, Moon & Tunes 235k :D
1991 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8L "Granny's Whip" 142k (33nd Anniversary :o )
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Derf
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by Derf »

Got the rims done earlier this week. Updated main post with additional details and items used.

Now the fun part, giving money to the tire industry. So far this is my top pick, Continental ProContact TX. User reviews are good, newer design, feedback is still coming in. Anyone have these installed?
http://www.continentaltire.com/product/ ... e_id=27460
2005 #10,524 Neptune Vibe "Bandit" Auto, Moon & Tunes 235k :D
1991 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8L "Granny's Whip" 142k (33nd Anniversary :o )
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tpollauf
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by tpollauf »

Derf. Not sure on those Continental tires BUT Junior's 2009 Vibe GT got a full set of Continental 215/45-18 Extreme DWS XL 93Y tires a couple years ago and they've been great. Much better than the original GoodYear tires! Post some good pics of the Mag face of the rims, before & after. Curious as to how much nicer they'll look
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2009 Vibe GT (manual), 2009 G8Gt, 2009 Vibe GT (auto)
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DearJimmy
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by DearJimmy »

Derf wrote:So far this is my top pick, Continental ProContact TX
Derf, First of all I just joined GenVibe because of your rim restoration post. Hi all! Thank you very much for the thorough tutorial! I'm in Ohio too. Please PM me and tell me where you are in Ohio. When I saw you were asking about tires I had to join and give you my 2 cents! Years back I was searching for tires for my mom's 2000 Malibu. I read reviews for every tire. Like yourself, I'm in Ohio and I wanted to get my mom something that would be great in the winter. TireRack reviewers gave the General Altimax Arctic rave reviews AND many used them year round. Those year rounders said they had a lot of trad left and had 85,000 miles on the,. Usually snow tires get eaten up on dry pavement. I bought her a set and oh my are those great tires!!! They made the ride smoother and way more sure footed. They are also quite quiet, even though the tread looks quite aggressive. They are directional so make sure they are installed correctly and only rotate front to back.

So, three years later I bought a 2005 Moons & Tunes Vibe with AWD. I put a set of the General Altimax Arctic's on just before this past winter and WOW!!! Best tires I've ever had! It will surely make your 2 wheel drive seem like an all wheel drive because my mom's Malibu got through everything. Usually one loses lateral grip with snow tires, but these are great in that respect too. I wouldn't try to compare it to a Corvette on a skid pad, but you will honestly love these tires. If you buy them and absolutely hate them talk to me and I'll buy them for my car! Go look at other tires. Every tire I saw has the new slippery rubber. I think that's silica to make them wear longer. The Altimax Arctic's feel like rubber! After a bad winter of driving them hard mine still look new. They look great on the Vibe too!
I bought my 205/55-16's through Walmart's tire site because they ship free to the store. They cost $89 per tire. I took them to NTB to have installed and their service manager told me OVER AND OVER how he could have saved me $72 in the long run with their "Buy 3 Get 1 Free promo." Call and see what they can do? Use me as an example. I just called to get the Arctic's for an old Triumph I have and the June promo is $100 off 4 tires, BUT they said my Triumph size was on Back order. Walmart says they are in stock,

Here's a Link to the General Altimax Arctic (You need to pay shipping with TireRack, but they include Road Hazard):

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... mpare1=yes
Jbenrod
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by Jbenrod »

These tires are only a "Q" speed rating. I've never had that low of speed rating so I guess you don't use them for interstate travel ?

Do you have another set of rims for summer tires?
2005 Base - 220k
Derf
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Re: Refinishing OEM aluminum rims

Post by Derf »

I got the Continental tires, they are H rated, 130 Mph. I see the suggested link for Winter tires is Q rated, 99Mph
2005 #10,524 Neptune Vibe "Bandit" Auto, Moon & Tunes 235k :D
1991 Pontiac Bonneville 3.8L "Granny's Whip" 142k (33nd Anniversary :o )
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