I would do a nice clutch if I had the money, but that extra $100 I need for maintenance.SeattleJeremy wrote:The clutch is something you want to do right the first time, and don't want to over do it. Obviously, if you are looking to go FI at some point the stock clutch won't do. At the same time there is no reason to go overboard and get a clutch rated at 350ft/lb.
I would recommend the "Competition Clutch Stage 2 Street Carbon/Kevlar"
http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/produ ... ts_id=1235" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
If you decide to get a flywheel remember the 2ZZ (your engine) and 1ZZ flywheels are different.
The 03 Vibes has a cable throttle body. Inspect the cable ends make sure they are connected correctly and the TB opens and closes with little resistance.
Make sure the floor mat isn't getting in the way
Tracking down the throttle sticking issue might lead to resolving your high idle issue.
GTwannabe wrote:Welcome fellow uh... vibe owner?!! Love the GT, I wish I had the AWD and extra 60 hp.
1. I am about to install my F1 stage 1 clutch and fidazna flywheel. Got on ebay for $80 (clutch) and $300 (flywheel). The suggested retail for the clutch is $540 on f1-racing site. Some people hate on clutch brands, but ebay has a strange way of reducing prices. Spec, Clutch Masters, TRD, and others, all make clutches for the vibe for about that price. They should all be similar quality. From what I have read you would want a semi-organic clutch. Some people herer buy 3 puck ceramic ones, but that type was really made simply for the racetrack. Kevlar clutches sound cool, but they are fragile so your GF or BF (depending) might blow it up on the way to the groccery-store. Check the part number on the ebay listing with the part number from the manufactuerer for the vibe. If it matches go for it. Make sure to do a good bleed of the clutch/brake line fluid, who knows when the last time that might have been done. A nice flywheel sounds cool. Mine is being installed this week, and it weighs 8lbs (i think, its Fidazna). I wouldn't go for anything but the lighest. There are some steel 12lb flywheels, but the gain for them would be less substantial. Just ask to get yours resurfaced if possible, that would be the cheapest. Ask to replace the rear main seal while the tranny is out. Should only be 1/2 labor extra.
2. check the linkages? I don't think the vibe has a cable throttle, not sure.
3. Cleaning the throttlebody might help too. When was the last time the airfilter was changed? You might also want to check for recalls. I know my 07 base vibe had one back in 2011. The EFI chip was reprogrammed or replaced or sumthin The end result was that idle speed dropped from around 1k to 800
Good luck!
The higher a clutch is rated (stage) the harder it will be to use in everyday driving.klutzycarlover wrote:I would do a nice clutch if I had the money, but that extra $100 I need for maintenance.
It seems like the major thing that goes wrong with those cheap clutch kits is the clutch disc. And people are also saying that only stage 3+ kits have a stronger pressure plate. So I think I'm going to get an OEM organic clutch disc, eBay stage 3-4 pressure plate, and eBay cromo flywheel. That should add up to about $250, and should hold 200 hp I think. I'll go with a much better clutch once I start doing FI.
That's true, cleaning my TB may fix all those problems. I'll go try it now, thanks!!
Oh, and what fluids should I get? Thanks again!
Sweet! I definitely will check that out. I love what you've done with your vibe by the way! I'm taking notes, as I plan to do many similar mods.mac99d wrote:Welcome to the site lots of helpful people on here. If you live in Vegas you should check out https://www.facebook.com/pages/ZZ-Garag ... 5614935316" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. BTW nice choice in cars
Filters:klutzycarlover wrote:I got six quarts of Mobil-1 5w-30. I didn't have enough cash for Royal Purple. What filter should I use? Is there anything I should know before proceeding with an oil change? Also, what spark plugs do you recommend?
Thanks in advance!
X2 to that comment. Too bad that you couldn't have had the oil tested immediately when you purchased the car to see how many contaminants would have been in it. With that much dirt entering the engine for who knows how long, it likely did some some internal damage to all of your lubricating parts. Definitely plan on your next oil change to get an oil analysis performed so you can see if you're witnessing any concerning internal engine wear. Hopefully you got the engine compartment cleaned up by now. What a mess it was when you got itSalsa Guy wrote:That thing was EATING dirt!!! Wow
Yes. Combination of dirty maf, throttle body, and iac. After cleaning all those, it got much better. But my throttle body needs replacement, because it has play side to side, which causes it to catch a little high, or catches when fully closed to cause the throttle to have the initial resistance when pressed.ken99287 wrote:Ever get the idle figured out?
I know that is tempting. But you run the risk of experiencing a throttle that is stuck in wide open position. There are some life experiences you have to make on your own. This is not one of them.klutzycarlover wrote:Yes. Combination of dirty maf, throttle body, and iac. After cleaning all those, it got much better. But my throttle body needs replacement, because it has play side to side, which causes it to catch a little high, or catches when fully closed to cause the throttle to have the initial resistance when pressed.ken99287 wrote:Ever get the idle figured out?
Maybe i can try to disassemble it, and shim it somehow.
How would it get stuck open? I would shim either side of the shaft, to keep the plate centered. As well as keeping it plenty loose enough to operate. Also, sand the edges of the flap, to prevent catching. Sounds a lot cheaper than a new throttle body.vibrologist wrote:I know that is tempting. But you run the risk of experiencing a throttle that is stuck in wide open position. There are some life experiences you have to make on your own. This is not one of them.klutzycarlover wrote:Yes. Combination of dirty maf, throttle body, and iac. After cleaning all those, it got much better. But my throttle body needs replacement, because it has play side to side, which causes it to catch a little high, or catches when fully closed to cause the throttle to have the initial resistance when pressed.ken99287 wrote:Ever get the idle figured out?
Maybe i can try to disassemble it, and shim it somehow.
Look for a good used TB.
Just my 2 cents.
Wow, that's pretty low mileage. These will just go forever. Definitely can't knock Toyota reliability. I'm over 160k now, driven very hard for the last year and 10k miles. All the parts are factory still (besides the ones I've upgraded). Original struts, bushings, fuel pump, wheel bearings, coils, injectors, CV axles. It's amazing how long they can go, and how much abuse they can take.bountybuddy wrote:Very nice looking Vibe my friend. My wife and I bought our first Vibe back in 2010 I think. It had 135,000 miles on it and we bought it for $7,250.00. They were asking $7,500.00 but came down a bit for us. It was a base model 2003. Before buying it they let us take it home with us for the weekend so we could be sure it got the gas mileage they told us it got. We took a drive around Michigan's thumb, 175 miles and got 38 MPG. We both just loved it. We put the rear seats down and slept in the back of it to be sure we could. This is when the price of gas was about $4.00 per gallon. The car we bought the Vibe to replace had 125,000 miles on it. The only problem we have had with it was having to replace all four struts which cost us $1,500.00. The car now has just under 200,000 miles on it and it is still going strong. I think it is the best car I have ever owned. A couple of months ago I found a 2004 Vibe with 88,500 miles on it for $7,000.00 and we bought it. The new to us Vibe is silver and could pass for brand new. We are a very happy Vibe family. Take care my friend.