Just wanted to say this is a really interesting thread. I personally don't have a use for a hard top cargo cover, but the engineering and ingenuity going into this is pretty cool. Keep up the good work and keep us posted with pics.
looks good Zuben!i think you are right with the rubber insert idea instead of the metal lip.I wonder though....you'll have to cut the fabric so that the cover can be folded in half. if you were to cut the fabric such that it folded over and into the 'joint', could it provide enough bulk to not need a rubber insert? Essentially keeping the board flat?let me know if you want me to illustrate.
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Quote, originally posted by Atomb »I wonder though....you'll have to cut the fabric so that the cover can be folded in half. if you were to cut the fabric such that it folded over and into the 'joint', could it provide enough bulk to not need a rubber insert? Essentially keeping the board flat?I think I understand what you're suggesting, and it would certainly achieve the same effect I'm attempting with the foam/rubber insert. The problem is that the current material I'm using would actually be too thick.I'm also debating whether to cut the top mat. Currently, it sits right on top of the cover and stays put because it has a rubberized base. I could add velcro swatches to it and the cover if I wanted it to be more secure. I really do like the solid appearance it has right now. OTOH, even though the mat can roll up to a managable size, having it be permanently attached to the cover would be convenient.
i was picturing the fabric cover stretched over the wood and then stapled to the underside. Then the same fabric can be cut to cover the under side and staples...with some hot glue...maybe even some thin padding to give it that professional upholstered look?oh my god, my wife has me watching too much TLC programming lately!! If the fabric is TOO thick, then maybe only fold over one side to fill the gap and let the other side finish flush at the top corner?
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Quote, originally posted by BOZACK »What about adding a folding leg to support it?That would work, and if added to the part of the cover nearest the seats, would be least obtrusive. I was going to mention that, any "leg" would interfere with loading, especially if the rear seats were down. On the other hand, it seems less likely that a hard cover would be used when the rear seats are down as well (you'd want the maximum cargo space for loading).I'll keep this idea in mind if the shim doesn't work.
How close is the cover to the seat back? If it is close enough, how about just putting one or two of the cargo tie down anchors in the seat back, so the cover could sit on top of them to keep it from sagging? Could even throw another hook or two on the underside of the coverr to fit into the tie down anchors.
Quote, originally posted by joatmon »How close is the cover to the seat back? If it is close enough, how about just putting one or two of the cargo tie down anchors in the seat back, so the cover could sit on top of them to keep it from sagging? Could even throw another hook or two on the underside of the coverr to fit into the tie down anchors.great idea! ...i love this type of 'designing'...i miss my old job where we would do stuff like this for an hour in a room of 4 or 5 engineers. we came up with some amazing designs and solved some brutal issues!
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Quote, originally posted by joatmon »How close is the cover to the seat back? If it is close enough, how about just putting one or two of the cargo tie down anchors in the seat back, so the cover could sit on top of them to keep it from sagging? Could even throw another hook or two on the underside of the coverr to fit into the tie down anchors.It butts right up against the seats, so a pair of anchors set into the seat backs could at least serve as holders for some sort of bracing.Trying to think "out of the box" here, but I wonder if the whole design could be changed so that the cargo cover is mounted to the seat backs -- via the anchor rails -- rather than the side hooks? It would mean that the cover could only be used when the seats are up. It also might not offer enough support on the edges. Again, just thinkin' out loud.
that could be interesting.take 2 "L" shaped aluminum (or steel) flats so that half travels from front to back on the cover. The other half would go along the rails on the back of the seats. Then using the slides already in the rails for the tie down hooks, thread a bolt through the aluminum flats into the rail. see simple drawing attached! i'm not sure this would help the 'fold and store' feature you're looking for though...
Attached files
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I added a foam strip to the inside edge of one of the panel halves. The adhesive wasn't tacky enough, so I had to staple it in place, but it works! The next few posts show details.I cut some 3/4" interior foam insulation tape to width/length and stapled like so (note the indentations of the staple heads on the other piece of wood; they'll need to be punched down):
can you show a picture of the L-brackets holding it in place at the metal loops?I'm starting to plan my cover out now and wouldn't mind seeing how you did the brackets.Thanks!
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Quote, originally posted by Atomb »take 2 "L" shaped aluminum (or steel) flats so that half travels from front to back on the cover. The other half would go along the rails on the back of the seats. Then using the slides already in the rails for the tie down hooks, thread a bolt through the aluminum flats into the rail. i'm not sure this would help the 'fold and store' feature you're looking for though...Ah! Now we're getting somewhere! What if we took your backseat bracket and put a pivot on the top part, then added a pair of pivoted braces to lock it in place? Like this:OR...instead of diagonal braces, a pair of legs that swing out from the sides towards the rear of the car (like a folding cardtable)?The advantage of either of these would be that the lid could fold back to the seatback and be secured as part of the seat when not in use. It wouldn't be as deep/wide as the current design. Also, the seats couldn't be independently folded down. Hmmmm...
Quote, originally posted by ZubenElGenubi »Ah! Now we're getting somewhere! What if we took your backseat bracket and put a pivot on the top part, then added a pair of pivoted braces to lock it in place? Like this:**Image removed for preservation of screen space!*** OR...instead of diagonal braces, a pair of legs that swing out from the sides towards the rear of the car (like a folding cardtable)?The advantage of either of these would be that the lid could fold back to the seatback and be secured as part of the seat when not in use. It wouldn't be as deep/wide as the current design. Also, the seats couldn't be independently folded down. Hmmmm...interesting idea, but i would want the lid to cover the entire back for security reasons...out of site out of mind...
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Quote, originally posted by mcgusto82 »you guys would need to make some kind of wall to keep things on top of the shelf sliding to the rear seats. right?? or maybe a net between the back hatch and seats?? i don't. it just seems to me that that could be an issue.This was discussed when this thread first started and last night, Necessity stepped in and gave me an idea:I just used my large cargo net to secure a few extra items on top! Now I just gotta buy another cargo net!
Been a while since I've worked on this, but wanted to post a great How-To that someone over at MO did with a solid cargo cover for the back.http://matrixowners.com/forums....htmlIt is a very sturdy design and should support a good amount of weight. Not as convenient to install/remove/store, but that wasn't the primary design factor. He wanted a "working" functional deck lid.It's actually similar to my first prototype, but with better mounting hooks. I like the bungee cord idea to secure the lid and keep it from bouncing, though I don't think it's necessary. The weight alone should do it.I'm working on my 2nd hinged version right now and should have pics of it up in a week.
Been a while, but wanted to show the latest iteration in the search for a better cargo cover.Since my last post, NUBlackShirts bought and installed one of black05vibe/Aaron's custom cargo covers. One new and interesting design feature was the use of solid rods across the hooks to support the cover.Since one of my design goals was to make this as portable as possible (which is why the hinged design has been adopted), the use of solid rods helps make this more feasible and also allows for lighter construction materials.So, here's the current working version:This uses 2 - 2' x 2' x 3/8" plywood pieces, cut to follow the shape of the cargo cover and hinged along the bottom center with a continuous hinge. The top is indoor/outdoor doormat material which is glued to the surface. The total weight is only about 3 lbs and will support 20-30 lbs across the top.
Here's a picture of the underside to show how it's attached:Two rods sit inside the metal hold down loops. These were quickly made from some spare canopy rods I had. The shorter, rearmost rods were just the right length. The longer rods required three sections to be fit together and the ends crimped and bent into right angles. For now, the ends are taped with black duck tape to prevent scratches, but I'll replace that with shrink tubing or rubber coating.Note that there is no need for any device to keep the rods sitting in the hooks; they fit snugly.Also note one of the straps I made for carrying it when folded.
Here are all the components, disassembled in the cargo area.Unfortunately, it all won't fit under the cargo base, although the rods will fit in the top section behind the seats.
Here is a view of the cover with the hatch glass open.Because it is thin and doesn't sit very high, it wasn't necessary to adjust the shape to accomodate the hatch release mechanism. The carpeted cover basically follows the shape of the original vinyl cover.
cool job, zub.i like the fact that the bars can stow away in that long storage compartment. There must be a way to fit the folded board in the spare wheel area!!good job!
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That looks pretty good, ZEG! I like the hinge idea. The one thing I didn't like about mine is that it's harder to get large objects into the back now due to the size of the cover when it's removed. With the hinges, the cover would take up a lot less room when it's removed. Still haven't tried mounting a Bazooka sub underneath my cover. Money is tight right now.
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Quote, originally posted by Atomb »There must be a way to fit the folded board in the spare wheel area!!I tried but the clearance between the cargo floor and the storage area below it is too small for the folded cover to fit, which is a shame since it's other dimensions are well within the limits.If one were extreme, some of the plastic could be cut off, but I'm not going that route.Quote, originally posted by Atomb »i guess the bar going across would make the 'hinged access door' we discussed awhile ago a no go?it would be in the way. Yup...that front bar would be smack dab in the middle of your hatch opening.
I used curtain rods to support my flimsy cover (made out of 1/4" plywood). Works satisfactory to me. Interesting that I actually "invented bicycle", the idea came to my mind before I discover this forum and found this thread. But I used some hints building the cover from posts above and thank all for them. George Vibe 2007
i love this mod, it's a great thing to have, specially if you have valubles in the back that you dont wanna have it in the open for people to see, reminds me of the honda civic hatchbacks..they had them like this..cept it was folded in half going horizontal
This was such a simple, but GREAT idea. I am going to try this. I just liek the way it looks. I am looking right now for the carpet for the cargo area, right now I just have some old carpet that I cut to size.... but it works.
Quote »*I bought two doormats. One from Home Depot (brand name "Endurance", Multy Industries) was 24" x 60" and cost $10.It is ribbed, grey felt on a rubberized base (no edge, very easy to cut with shears). The other was from Target, charcoal, 24" x 60"and cost $9. Both come rolled up.Good info - I also bought the same 2'x5' gray doormat from the Home Depot, but saw there only black or gray colors.
Ok…Thanks for all the inspiration. I managed to find a free piece of plywood, a used can of grey spray paint, a old black towel and some duct tape. For tools I used my circular saw (jig saw would have been nice) and electric stapler. Here's some photos. All this so my dog now has a place to sit/lay.
I love the permanent design to yours vs. the "bars." The fact that you can just drop those L brackets into the cargo hooks and be done with it is awesome. Well done. I'm getting by with the floppy cover, but this might be something to make in the future. Is it heavy enough so that there isn't any rattling of metal-on-metal where your brackets are?Also, some people have hinged theirs down the middle, with the hinges underneath, so it is capable of folding in half and easier to store. Thinking of incorporating that in my attempt. Whenever that is.
Love seeing this thread still active!Even though my prototype was a solid cover - and I like the look of a solid cover - I much prefer the hinged cover. It takes just an extra minute to install, but is much easier to remove and stow, if needed. Also, one can use thinner (eg., lighter) wood and still support a good amount of weight (about 20 lbs easily).I will admit that it will rattle sometimes (since it's lighter than the solid cover), but not annoying. Having the "wayback" area concealed is worth it to me.