I had that same sinking feeling only a couple of months ago.Macadoo wrote:Well crud, I have power getting to the clutch.
That looks betterHope2BuyVibeTomorrow wrote:Getting some more 134a coolant tomorrow and hopefully will be able to revive my AC now that summer has finally come to Vancouver!
Haha force of habittpollauf wrote:That looks betterHope2BuyVibeTomorrow wrote:Getting some more 134a coolant tomorrow and hopefully will be able to revive my AC now that summer has finally come to Vancouver!
I only see one wire /connector and that is the one that is connected to the alternator. Is that what you used? And how did you do it? Use multimeter or connect the wire to the battery?
There is a wire that runs to the AC compressor, as shown in the attached images from a 2003 Vibe, should be the same for 03-08's, don't know what year you have. Matrixes are slightly different
joatmon wrote: ↑Thu Apr 27, 2023 7:00 am Welcome to genvibe!
There is a wire that runs to the AC compressor, as shown in the attached images from a 2003 Vibe, should be the same for 03-08's, don't know what year you have. Matrixes are slightly different
I think the test step you are asking about is to disconnect that wire from the compressor, and with the engine running and the AC turned on, use a multimeter to check the voltage between that cable end connector (only has one pin) and ground, either the engine block or the battery negative terminal. If you read nothing, then there could be a problem with the fuse or relay or something else not allowing the 12V to get to the compressor to activate the clutch. If you read 12V from the connector to ground (11, 12,13,14 volts, somewhere in that range) then the voltage is getting to the clutch, and assuming you are doing this because the clutch doesn't activate, then you probably have a bad clutch. ( but standard caveat, I don't guarantee anything)
joatmon wrote: ↑Thu Apr 27, 2023 7:00 am Welcome to genvibe!
There is a wire that runs to the AC compressor, as shown in the attached images from a 2003 Vibe, should be the same for 03-08's, don't know what year you have. Matrixes are slightly different
I think the test step you are asking about is to disconnect that wire from the compressor, and with the engine running and the AC turned on, use a multimeter to check the voltage between that cable end connector (only has one pin) and ground, either the engine block or the battery negative terminal. If you read nothing, then there could be a problem with the fuse or relay or something else not allowing the 12V to get to the compressor to activate the clutch. If you read 12V from the connector to ground (11, 12,13,14 volts, somewhere in that range) then the voltage is getting to the clutch, and assuming you are doing this because the clutch doesn't activate, then you probably have a bad clutch. ( but standard caveat, I don't guarantee anything)
joatmon wrote: ↑Tue May 30, 2023 7:01 am You never said what year you had, so assuming 03-08. If 09 to 10, this may not apply.
There are a number of things that can prevent 12V getting to the clutch. A lot has been discussed above and in viewtopic.php?f=28&t=37869
There is a clutch relay in the underhood fuse block. See the picture above.
With the car not running pull that relay and use a wire to connect 12V from the battery to the relay socket terminal marked 12V to clutch. If the clutch engages, then you will know that the clutch and the wire going from the fuse block to the clutch are ok. If the clutch doesn't engage, then either the clutch or the wire from the fuse block to the clutch is bad.
To test the wire,disconnect the wire from the clutch, and either 1) use a multimeter to test for connectivity between the wire end and the To clutch terminal of the relay socket or 2) use a wire to put battery + on the To clutch terminal of the relay socket and use a multimeter to look for 12V between the end of the wire and ground. Seems like the probability is low that a problem would be in the wire.
If that all tests ok, then with the ignition ON (not off or acc, and the engine need not be running, as long as the HVAC blower will run), use a multimeter to check for 12V between the clutch relay socket terminal marked 12V from Fuse and ground. If you don't get 12V there, then check or replace the 10A AC fuse in the unpleasant to access under dash fuse block. (I suspect that if that fuse was bad, the AC switch wouldn't light up when pushed)
Now if everything so far checks ok, use kostby's trick from that other thread to put 12V between the two smaller silver contacts on the relay itself, you should feel the relay activate. If it does, then while activated you should be able to use a multimeter to check for connectivity between the two larger contacts on the relay
When the engine is running and you hit the AC button on the dash, it sends a signal to the car computer. The computer should then put out a ground to the AC clutch relay coil, the other end of the relay coil is 12V from the AC fuse. This will engage the clutch relay, and send 12V from the AC fuse to the AC clutch, The AC clutch is an electromagnet, the other end of it gets ground from mechanical connection to the engine block. When the 21V hits the AC clutch, it pulls in the shaft of the AC compressor, where it grabs the otherwise fee spinning compressor pulley. All the electrical stuff above could be fine and the AC still not engage if the car computer decides to not send a ground to the AC clutch relay. it might do that if the refrigerant pressure is out of tolerance, or perhaps for some other reason. Hope2BuyVibeTomorrow above tested his electrical parts, but then had to add refrigerant to get his working again.
joatmon wrote: ↑Wed Jun 07, 2023 8:49 am Pull the relay, and with the ignition on (engine need not be running) use a multimeter to check that you have 12V between the relay socket marked 12V from fuse and the battery negative terminal. If you have that, then you can use a bent paper clip or a pair of needle nose pliers or a scrap piece of another wire to jumper the 12V from fuse and 12V to clutch pins in the relay socket.
If this doesn't cause the AC clutch to activate, leave it jumpered and disconnect the factory wire from the AC clutch, and use a multimeter to check for 12V between the now loose connector on the end of that factory wire and the battery negative terminal. If that gets you 12V, then the factory wire from the fuse block to the AC clutch is ok.
If for some reason you do not get 12V on the "12V from fuse" pin of the relay socket, you can do the same test by using a scrap wire, coat hanger, a series of twisted paper clips, or any other electrical conductor long enough to connect the 12V to clutch pin of the relay socket to the battery positive terminal.
On an only slightly related topic, 12V is relatively safe, no need to worry about shorting it out with your hands like you should be afraid to do with house current, but you need to be careful to not short out the battery to ground with anything metal. One time I was removing the cable from the battery positive terminal, and somehow managed to have the wrench contact my metal watch band, which was resting on the frame. I didn't feel any electrical shock, but it arc welded a little nub of metal between the wrench and the watch band, and the watch band got hot enough to raise a burn blister on my wrist. Now I always remove the battery negative terminal first.