*****This is a step-by-step explanation on how I installed my front sway bar. The process involves removing and re-installing significant structural and steering components on the car. Incorrect re-installment of these components could lead to steering failure, and result in serious injury to yourself and others. IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH YOUR ABILITIES TO CORRECTLY (AND SAFELY) RE-ASSEMBLE YOUR CAR, TAKE IT TO A SHOP AND HAVE THEM DO IT!!!***** I did my own front sway bar install this A.M. It does take alot of time, but it actually was easier than I thought it would be.First I loosened up the lugs on the wheels then jacked up the front and put it on jack stands, removed the wheels (and put under the car by the jackstands so if the jackstands fail....)My Vibe is a 5-speed without ABS, so yours may have more garbage to work around.I had read in a post that some people (including myself) was worried that the motor would need support from above, but it does not. You are removing bolts that hold a lower engine mount, but the remaining mounts hold the motor & tranny fine.The first thing I did was look everything over, (including the instructions, but they aren't that helpful, pics are awful),and removed the 3 bolts and 3 nuts towards the middle of the "cradle". (see below)After the above bolts/nuts removed, place a floor jack under the center of the cradle. Bring jack up close to the cradle, but don't put any pressure on it, you're only going to use the jack to lower the cradle.(NOTE: Below, the Hotchkis instructions say to remove these 3 bolts/nuts on each side, but I have done this job twice without removing these bolts/nuts. Makes the job quicker if you don't. Just don't lower the lower cradle any further than you need to.)Remove the 3 bolts/nut at the bottom of the spindle/lower suspension arm.Now the most difficult part for me was loosening up the 4 bolts that hold your steering rack down to the cradle. These are accessed from above the cradle. The two on the passanger side, I removed from the engine compartment with 2 very long extensions, the driver's side front was the difficult one to get at. I believe these are also 17mm.You only need to loosen the bolts up all the way out of the threads, but you don't need to bother removing them.These two bolts on each side are very tight. An air impact wrench will be much safer to remove these bolts than a ratchet with a "cheater bar" because you could pull the car off of the jackstands. I have a wimpy air gun that wouldn't loosen one of them that I did carefully loosen with a ratchet. I loosened all 4, then removed the upper/more forward bolt on each side. These bolts are the only thing remaining holding up the cradle, so I loosened the rear bolts a ways, then lowered the jack a little to see if everything was clearing. I then removed the rear bolts and lowered the cradle just enough to easily get at the 4 bolts that clamp down the sway bar, removed them, and then the bar. The passanger side of the bar snakes between a couple power steering hoses, so you need to be careful when removing/re-installing the bar. I pulled the driver's side back out of the way, then snaked the passanger's side out of the power steering hoses.The Hotchkis instructions have a picture of the sway bar installed under this power steering hose. The stock bar was installed OVER this hose. I attempted to install like the instructions showed, but it would not fit, so I put it over the hose like the stock one was, and it fits fine.I just installed the new bar in reverse order. The Hotchkis bar has two holes in each end of the bar which are two different "stiffness" settings. I put it in the rearward, inner hole which is the stiffer setting.I was worried I'd have problems with the cradle not aligning up with everything, but I didn't have any problems. Everything bolted up just fine. I re-installed everything finger tight, then went back and torqued them down. REMEMBER TO TIGHTEN EVERYTHING BACK UP!! I torqued all the nuts/bolts to what the instructions indicated. (with exception to the driver's side forward steering rack bolt. It's close enough...)I took the Progress rear bar off and put on the Hotchkis bar to keep everything balanced. See
http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=1153 for a rear bar install.I've only took it for a few mile drive, but it seems to REALLY improve the handling of the car. Most of my daily driving is on I-75, and I was very disappointed with how the car got tossed around by the wind. It's a little windy today and I didn't even notice it, other than hearing it. This car should handle like this from the factory. Will post a follow up after I have a chance to drive it more.If you are thinking of doing it youself, and you are pretty good with a wrench, I wouldn't be too afraid of tackling it. It does take alot of time. I started at 10am, and came in to get cleaned up after changing both bars at 1:45pm. If you don't have some decent jackstands, floor jack, or a safe, level, concrete place to work on it, I wouldn't recommend it though. I have an air compressor and an air impact gun which speeded up the job alot. Take your time, and work safe. Don't forget the safety glasses also.Carl
Sold 6/16/04 03 Vibe 5-speed, Hotchkis Sway Bars & Springs, Hooker Aerochamber, Panasonic Stereo, Hitch, Silverstars,04 Saturn Vue 2.2L Ecotec, 5-speed, 01 Stratus R/T Coupe 5-speed (wife's car) 85 Corvette 268 CompCam, 882 heads, FlatTops, 24lb injectors, Hooker Aerochamber true duals, 58mm TB, Holley AFPR, Siamesed intake base, Polished TPI.