GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Can someone tell me the exact bolt or location to adjust the rear cambers on my 2004 awd vibe. Driving me nuts. A picture or drawing would be nice. Thnks

You may have to get a kit to adjust it. I'll look in my book or at the Hunter alignment machine at school tomorrow and see what I can bring you!

Thanks..Ive been researching and always come across someone saying that no kits are needing but no details as to what can be done.

Interesting. I wonder if a kit from the GT (or XRS) will work because of the IRS.

This what you're looking for?

Rayven01 wrote:This what you're looking for?

Thanks..you're the man

This may help also

joatmon wrote:This may help also

Thats works too..thanks joatmon

Thats a nicly hidden bolt to get at. Never knew it was there till after I lined up mine. Thankfully, it was within specs!

BTW, keep those bolts oiled. Our northern climate is hard on them, and trying to adjust them after the car has reached a certain age, is a PITA!

Resurecting an old thread due to not heeding 09SnowyVibe's advice. What can you do if one of the adjustment bolts is frozen? Was in for an alignment and the tech wasn't able to get the rear right bolts loose...

Rusty bolts need penetrant oil and a flame wrench. They will submit.

If you use a torch, you will burn the rubber bushing out of the arm and then have to replace bushing and/or arm. If you have time, you can spray some good penetrating fluid on both sides of the bolt after taking the nut loose. Use something like K&W Knocker Loose or PB Blaster. Vibration is your friend when it comes to getting rusted frozen pieces apart. Use an air hammer on the end of the bolt. The rapped hammering may bust the bolt free along with helping work the penetrating fluid into the joint. The hammering will mushroom the end of the bolt, so you want to spin the nut back to the end of the bolt to help with a larger surface to hammer on. Keep working it with the fluid and the air hammer giving time for the fluid to work in. The bolt and nut will need to be replaced when out. Use anti-seize on the new bolt before putting it back together.

Another way to get the bolt out is to drill it out. Start with a small pilot hole in the center if the bolt and work your way up in size, drilling out more and more of the bolt until it is free. You could even cut the heads off the bolt and drill into the bolt stubs from each side just enough to pull the arm out. Once you have the arm out of the car, you can use a press to get the remaining bolt stud out of the arm bushing.

Just remember that it took along time for this rust to form and it is not going to just fall apart with some easy trick or spray lube. Your only limited by your imagination on how you go about getting it apart. Know what is stuck and where it is rusted and how the joint is rusted. This will help when trying to come up with a plan to get it free. Also a word about air hammers; if you get a cheap one, you get a tool that does not work well and is hard to control. An expensive air hammer has better trigger control and more hammering force then the cheap ones do.