BIG problem, needs help... Wheel Bearing replacement FUBAR

[Sublimewind]

pretty much says i all... Thoughts? I'm about the break the other end off, trying to pry it out of the slot.. it's rusted in, I was trying to free it up (wouldn't be the first time I've done this)Anyone in Mi, near Central Mi have acess to a "pick-a-part"...??? Drivers front knuckle....thanks...

[keithvibe]

dremel with a cut off wheel around the part where the snap ring is rusted, maybe.

[Sublimewind]

considered it thanks, but I think if I open up the grove, it might allow the bearing to move laterally later..

[keithvibe]

how about taking the screwdriver and hitting it in twards the knuckel, not towards the center of the spindle. Might break it free. As for the dremel, i wasn't suggesting that you cut it out completely just score the rusted area with the cut off wheel where the snap ring nests in to the grove. Something to help reduce the amount of the rust holding it in place ATM.

[Salsa Guy]

Or even use the dremel to cut another groove on the snap ring so you can get the pliers on it. If not I'm sure machine shop should be able to get it out. GL

[vibedrivermatt]

I gonna say something but then I realized I have no idea how to fix that. GL

[TONY TAT2]

I run into a problem like that on ocasion,a torch will melt the snap ring with out doing any damage.

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by TONY TAT2 »I run into a problem like that on ocasion,a torch will melt the snap ring with out doing any damage.Really... I'm not 100% sure if I'm willing to try... I do have a torch though (oxy/acet)

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by keithvibe »how about taking the screwdriver and hitting it in twards the knuckel, not towards the center of the spindle. Might break it free. As for the dremel, i wasn't suggesting that you cut it out completely just score the rusted area with the cut off wheel where the snap ring nests in to the grove. Something to help reduce the amount of the rust holding it in place ATM.I'll go whack it a while... AFA getting in the grove, it's tight and on the INSIDE there is a ridge cut into the hub (look between the snap ring) that's gotta be full of rust... I'll keep trying, all I can do is make it worse..

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by Salsa Guy »Or even use the dremel to cut another groove on the snap ring so you can get the pliers on it. If not I'm sure machine shop should be able to get it out. GLI'll see if I have anything that could do it... ?? who knows, maybe?Thanks everyone... !!

[djkeev]

Not hard at all. Get a drift (a punch with a flat end), support the unit securely in a vise or on a concrete floor, snap ring side up.Now using a ball peen hammer (or light weight framing hammer) hold the drift perpendicular to the snap ring and give it a sharp rap, move an inch and do it again, an inch and again, an inch, again, again again again again again, go around it several times. The jarring should loosen up the rust.You can give it a good shot of PB blaster or similar and let it set awhile and / or take a flat blade screwdriver tip and hook it in that little hook at the end of the ring and give it a light rap. It should move. Now if you have a 3rd hand when you rap the hook with the screw driver have that 3rd hand slip in a thin small screw driver blade, as you rap again you should open the slot a little more until you can get a bigger screw driver in there. Twist the larger screw driver and when the crack opens insert the small one in the crack, move the big one towards the small one and twist again and again and again until you've walked the snap ring out. Once the end is out of the groove take another small screw driver and lift it away from the bearings.10 minutes it should be out.If it is really stubborn heat the snap ring with the torch, not red hot but hot enough to burn you. Let it cool, the rust bond is now broken, remove the snap ring using the above method.Dave

[Sublimewind]

Dave, thanks... I went around it with my air hammer, still didn't loosen it... the other tab is about to pop off... I drilled a hole in the broken tab end and tried using a flathead to hook the hole and get it to move.. no... I hit with as much heat as I could before my oxygen ran out.. The clip is too strong for me to just wedge it to move it...

[djkeev]

As wonderful a tool as an air hammer / chisel is, they are difficult to control with pinpoint accuracy. You did a lot of pounding but most likely wasn't accurately placed. It is tough to get right in next to the lip of the housing, the air chisel heads are often rounded on the edges as well.Save this tool for your stubborn exhaust systems and other brutal jobs. This job needs the patience and accuracy of a hammer and drift.fAlso refill your gas or purchase a propane torch, not propane though, use the yellow bottle with the hotter gas in it.Good luck!!Drop it in a box, I'll fix it for you!!!Dave

[Sublimewind]

I believe I'm going to succumb to failure... I'm going to break tools and waist more money trying to get this apart, rather than getting a junker knuckle... I hope, making phone calls this morningHonestly, I think if it was new, my spring clip pliers wouldn't have been strong enough to remove it... This is what years of Buffalo road salt and Michigan dirt roads does to things...

[keithvibe]

this is true. Could always try a wirebrush on the dremel to remove the rust as well won't damage the knuckle.

[Sublimewind]

I thought about it, and tried, it's too tight in the grove to get the bristles down into the grove... I've called every salvage place in a 25mi radius and nobody had a knuckle... I found one without ABS... I just love living in a vacuum...

[Sublimewind]

I've got an idea, I'm going to take a metal chisel and try and split the lock clip in a few places... maybe I can get it out in pieces...

[djkeev]

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »I've got an idea, I'm going to take a metal chisel and try and split the lock clip in a few places... maybe I can get it out in pieces... Won't hurt but it also will not separate under the lip of the casting. You want heat my friend, heat is your friend! If it is as tight as you say, use a bit more than I originally advised. The two pieces of metal are of dissimilar chemical make up bound together by rust. Heat makes them expand at different rates thus breaking that bond.You might heat up the ring thus removing some of it's hardness and then drill a few holes along the circumference and then use these holes as little "handles" to convince this ring to let go and move.As I said, put it in a box, overnight, I'd have it yesterday, it would be back on its way to you and you'd have it tomorrow to install over the weekend!!Half kidding, half serious. If you're that stuck, let me know. Rust in NJ is not all that different than your mid western rust!!! Lot's of salt, lots of humidity.Dave

[Sublimewind]

Thank you Dave.. The chisel didn't do a thing for me (killed a chisel) even tried my air chisel and put a nice notch in that... I have a friend with a shop, he's always my last resort though, cause I'm broke and he owns a shop...lol.. I know he's got a torch though and will have had this problem before I'm sure... lol... I've lived in Buffalo NY so I know rust and salt alllllllll toooooo well...lol...