2nd gen 2009-10 2.4L Tune Up / Common Maintenance Thread

[ctgottapee]

Hopefully a spot for the 2.4 common maintenance and tune up. [A work in progress]
Comments / Questions / Links to other threads/sites to steal from are welcome


-Grease-
Graphite the lock cylinders
Silicon grease weatherstrips; lube hood latch, secondary latch, pivots, spring anchor, release pawl, hood hing, door hinges, folding seat hardware
Clean and inspect drive axle boot seals.

-Engine-
-Air Filter- pretty standard stuff
-Throttle Body- cleaning
-Valve Adjustment: [Advanced] Valve Clearance Intake 0.19 - 0.29 mm (0.0075 - 0.0114 in) Exhaust 0.38 - 0.48 mm (0.0150 - 0.189 in)
-Ignition Timing: [Advanced] [Special Tools] BTDC 8-12°at idle

todo;
-engine mounts: It is the design intent of the torque axis mounting systems to allow more engine movement than other mounting systems. Do not replace any torque axis mounts for excessive engine movement. Replace them if damage exists on the mount or rubber. Raise the engine enough to apply slight tension on the engine mount. Replace the engine mount if any of the following conditions exist: The hard rubber surface is covered with heat cracks. The rubber split through the center.
-IAC valve; torque 33lb in
-VVT filter- replace or clean
-drive belt
-front 02 sensor, rear 02 sensor; torque: 33lb ft
-Transmission Mounts- inspect

-Cooling System-todo;
-Fluid Replacement
-Clean radiator exterior; use radiator fin comb
-Clean condenser; use A/C condenser cleaning kit fed through filter access door.




up first
-PCV Valve Replacement:

pcvValvediag.jpg (54.86 KiB) Viewed 7161 times

pcvReplacementa.jpg (127.86 KiB) Viewed 7161 times

Fairly Simple; 7/8 inch Wrench (or large socket)
GM#

[ctgottapee]

-Engine Oil Pan Drop, Oil Pan Gasket Replacement, Pump Pickup Screen Cleaning:
Really not necessary for a tuneup as you can get all the oil out without a pan drop, but mine gasket was leaking pretty bad.
I used sea foam and it really appeared to clean up things. After filling with replacement oil, I could barely read the dipstick the oil was so clean.

oilpanGasket1.jpg (119.54 KiB) Viewed 7159 times

From the factory, they just use a silicone in place gasket in a tube with no gasket at all.
Fel-Pro sent the same RTV silicone in a tube and a thin cork like gasket to use.
The screws had no anti-seize on them. Torquing properly is important, AData had no torque order
10mm bolts x12 @ 80 in lbs and 10mm nuts x2 @ 80 in lbs
Fel-Pro# OS30713

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Pan removed, cleaned up (you can see some flash rust developing already from using brake cleaner on the inside of the pan. gasket RTV silicone applied.
You have to scrap the old gasket off carefully to not gouge the pan and then some brake cleaner to get the lip spotless.
The drain plug is pretty darn close to the bottom of the pain so not much oil remaining, and you could always snake a tube through the drain plug whole if you wanted to get it all out. no magnets or anything special.
oil pan GM#19185207
oil dran plug M12x1.25mm @ 29 ft lbs GM# ,plus gasket GM# / Fel-Pro #70822
oil filter @ 13 ft lbs GM#88969580
oil SAE 5W-20 4.5 quarts (4.3 liters) + 1/4 to 1/2 quart for pan drop

oilpanUnderneathIt1.jpg (119.95 KiB) Viewed 7159 times

It's real fun scrapping the gasket off from underneath the car with the limited room.
Even more fun is getting at the bolts above the exhaust. There is barely enough vertical room to get a socket head on them, and using a typical wrench won't work as the pan lip is curled, not to mention there is no room opposite to turn a wrench.
The pain is sealed on tight so I used the lip of the engine directly underneath the photo, you'll see it hanging out to gently start to pry it off.
The black spots are cleaning fluid dripping down.
The oil pickup screen has a cover held on by metal tabs. I used a shop vac on the opening to suck anything out, then sprayed brake fluid cleaner up in there, and then sucked on it again. I didn't want to risk breaking the tabs and I didn't see any debris in there or in the oil pan.
The engineers did put in two studs which makes it easy to put the pan back up on your own with all the goo on it.
Hint: Pull the dipstick before putting the pan back on as it might catch on the pan as you maneuver it....
oil pump screen GM#19185351

[ctgottapee]

Up next the 4 speed transmission on the AWD model (MVA version)

-Transmission Oil Pan Drain, Drop, Gasket Replacement, Filter Change
Drain plug 10mm hex head x 1 @ 36 ft lb;
Drain plug gasket - you can likely reuse it if this is the first time you are draining it
Approx 4 quarts will drain + a little more still in the bottom of the pan and in the filter

Toyota used a gasket so replacement is easy, no goop to scrape
The bolts do have a fair amount of lock tite from the factory so their is some resistance
My three magnets were heavily coated with metal shavings(pic has one cleaned, one full, one with my finger pressed in it), and the bottom of the pan had some sludge (see finger swipes in pic) but the fluid wasn't very dark.
M12 x __ transmission pan bolts @ 71 in lb (you really want to get this right as it's pretty light)
M12 x 3 transmission filter bolts @ 97 in lb

transPanInside.jpg (87.41 KiB) Viewed 7096 times

-Full Fluid (semi flush) and Replacement:
The full system holds 8.6 quarts and you'll get 4 quarts from the pan.
You can flush new fluid and replace the majority of it by emptying the fluid as it pumps through the transmission cooler and is one its way back to the transmission pan. First you refill the pan after you have dropped and empty it, then you run the vehicle and collect the old fluid a couple quarts at a time using the same bottles you just used to fill the pan, then refilling the pan through the transmission dipstick with the same amount that your empty. You will drain a bit more as the cooling tubes will spill as you disconnect them, etc.
The connection with the purple dot on it in the picture is the point where the fluid is returning from the cooler back to the pan. Remove the hose and attach a temporary hose (or similar) to the metal spout to collect it. It will come out under pressure, but not intense pressure. 8 quarts(2 gallons) should be plenty for a flush. You can keep redoing the procedure until you notice the fluid change color as the new fluid will start coming through. You also quickly shift through the gears during the drain procedure, takes about a minute to pump 2 quarts.
8.6 quarts x WS World Standard Fluid

transFluidTubesDrain.jpg (84.41 KiB) Viewed 7096 times

transFluidDiagram.jpg (62.46 KiB) Viewed 7096 times

[ctgottapee]

-Rear Transfer case fluid check and/or replacment

Fairly simple check, although you may want to have the proper replacement gasket if you do a drain and replace. The fill gasket is above the resting fluid so it is not likely to leak. You can also check for other leaks around the drive axle seal....
Check that the oil surface is within 5 mm (0.197 in) of the lowest position of the inner surface of the differential filler plug opening.
When checking oil, make sure that the vehicle is level.

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Fill / Inspection plug on top, Drain plug on the bottom [there is a third plug on the very top, almost impossible to access on the car]
Inspection/oil fill plug x 1 10mm Hex @ 36 lb ft
Inspection plug gasket (crush washer) x 1
Drain plug x1 10mm Hex head @ 36 lb ft
Drain plug gasket (crush washer) x 1

Fluid SAE 80W-90 API GL-5 Hypoid Gear Lubricant [Axle Lubricant GM Part No. U.S. 89021669] 0.8L / 0.8quarts total fill. (there was a TSB Bulletin No.: 08-04-21-006 update on this, so manual may have incorrect data)
When adding oil, pour it slowly. Add oil gradually at several intervals. After leaving it alone for 5 min, check the oil level again.

transfercaseFillDiagram.jpg (37.62 KiB) Viewed 7095 times

rearDiffLeak.jpg (82.18 KiB) Viewed 7095 times

[ctgottapee]

Up next is an A/C system check.

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Here is the chart to check your pressures and temps.

Start car and let idle for 5 minutes with AC on high, windows down.
Put a thermometer in the drivers side vent to record output temp; you also need to know outisde temp and relative humidity.
Check pressures and tmeps are inline

[ctgottapee]

And now some brake work, the front brakes are common to all 2nd gen versions, the rear are common to GT and AWD with rear independent suspension.

There is nothing special going on

I upgraded the brake lines to stainless steel. The OEM lines have a hook on the end that goes into the caliper, and thus allow a bit more torque. If you use lines without the hook, use a more common torque around 12 lbs per ft, or you'll snap the bolt. The factory torques for the hook version were nearly double that.

Torques (lbs per ft):
Caliper Bracket bolts x2 to Vehicle: 79 front / 43 rear
Caliper Pin bolts x2: 25 front / 20 rear
Bleeder valves: 6 all around
Lug nuts: 76 all around


I also installed the brake pad drag reduction clips, only available for the Rear pads. The install is easy, but I have doubts that the limited strength of the clip spring will do its job; maybe it is just enough. Probably worth trying if you are doing a brake job.

I also installed the brake caliper dampener, again only available for the Rear brakes. Again the install is easy. I ran the new brakes first without the dampener just to see if I had any squeal and I didn't, so I can't be sure if they'll ever do anything. The part is a little overpriced if you don't need it.



Here are some diagrams for the brake pad clips and where to grease things up. The standard value ones are cheaper metal, the higher priced versions are stainless, and the wagner premium ones are rubber coated stainless.

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vibeRearPads.gif (9.27 KiB) Viewed 6918 times