Oil Filter Question 2008 1ZZFE

[Water boy]

OK, I've been all over this forum (and others). More confused now than when I started.

I don't want a full blown discussion, that has obviously already been done.......many times.

I've used:
NAPA 1394
WallyWorld ST4967 (hard to find)
AcDelco PF1233 (most recently used)

I'm looking to switch over to the Toyota version.
I've found:
90915-YZZA2
90915-YZZF1
90915-YZZF2
Any idea what the difference is? Is it even correct?

Why you ask? I''m ready for a mental change. Can I mentally do better? Can I feel better that I'm using the best I can?
Since I quit going to my psychiatrist I've re-developed "issues".

Sorry, I drifted.............

I change oil about 5-6-7,000 using full synthetic. I could use the Pronto filter for $1.64 and be done with it but my conscience won't let me.

What have you been using for the 1ZZFE?

[Derf]

Have used:
NAPA SFI 21394 silver
NAPA FIL 1394 gold, currently installed
NAPA PFL 41394 platinum
AcDelco PF1233 (got it to get a GM parts order just over the free shipping threshold)
Puralator PL14476 (came with car)

90915-YZZA2 Superseded by 90915-YZZF2
90915-YZZF1 Made in Thailand
90915-YZZF2 Made in Thailand

[circuitsmith]

Purolator PureOne PL14477

[Mark]

I use the NAPA 41394 Platinum filter and Mobil-1 0w-30 synthetic

[ColonelPanic]

I used Purolators exclusively for the last couple of years. they're readily available for a good price at Meijer where I also purchase all of my oil. But after seeing the Purolator Media Tear Crisis of 2014 over on BITOG, perhaps I'll try a Wix next time. Likely something from NAPA.

There's a Classic L14476 on there at the moment and PureOne PL14476 prior to that. Further back it's had a few random ecores (AC Delco, Supertech.)

I tried the Classic this time since the ol' gal has had some problems building up oil pressure with the last couple of PureOnes. At startup, the oil light would flicker for a couple seconds before finally going out. Wasn't sure if it is just old age, the filter, or maybe even a flaky sending unit. But so far I haven't been seeing this with the Classic, the oil light goes out quickly.

[ehoff121]

Mobil 1 M1-103 w/ Mobil 1 5W-30 every 5k.

That and a tablespoon of extra fine MoS2 powder.

[Water boy]

I used Purolators exclusively for the last couple of years. they're readily available for a good price at Meijer where I also purchase all of my oil. But after seeing the Purolator Media Tear Crisis of 2014 over on BITOG, perhaps I'll try a Wix next time. Likely something from NAPA.

There's a Classic L14476 on there at the moment and PureOne PL14476 prior to that. Further back it's had a few random ecores (AC Delco, Supertech.)

I tried the Classic this time since the ol' gal has had some problems building up oil pressure with the last couple of PureOnes. At startup, the oil light would flicker for a couple seconds before finally going out. Wasn't sure if it is just old age, the filter, or maybe even a flaky sending unit. But so far I haven't been seeing this with the Classic, the oil light goes out quickly.

Next time you are over at BITOG check on this stuff that ehoff121 uses.

That and a tablespoon of extra fine MoS2 powder.

[ehoff121]

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/applicati ... brication/

The trick is finding the stuff. If you search the Web for it, you'll find a wide range of prices and grinds. You can purchase superfine (1.5 microns, small enough to flow through the oil filter) from an industrial supply house for about $50/pound, which at 1/2 oz. per oil change will last 32 oil changes.

A good thing about using the powder is you can add it to your choice of motor oil. There are moly oils being sold, but you have to go with what they suspend the moly in.

There are sellers on ebay with smaller containers, but higher prices.

Interestingly enough, Tungsten Disulfide is more lubricious than Molybdenum Disulfide, but 3x the price.