04 Will crank, but will not start.

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brandnewrock8
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04 Will crank, but will not start.

Post by brandnewrock8 »

My 04 blew out the water pump, upon happening I lost all power to the car and I rolled to a stop. After towing it home, I replaced the water pump, but now the car will not start. I hear the fuel pump turn on, and the starter cranks, but it will not fire. I was thinking it could be the ignition relay? I cannot find the darn thing! Is it under the steering wheel behind that fuse box? Help!
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

OK, I found the relay, but I cannot remove it. Any tips/tricks? Do I need to remove the lower part of the dash to get to it better?
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Well its not the relay, the engine is getting fuel, I pulled the spark plug and it was soaked in gas. What now...
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
djkeev
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

Why does a spark plug wet with gas verify that you have spark? This wet plug situation only proves that you have fuel. Assuming you live in a world which has air with oxygen in it (which we do) An engine needs 3 items to run.....Compression, formed by the piston compressing the air fed to it.Fuel, delivered at the right time and in the correct quantity.Spark, delivered at the correct time.You now only know you have fuel, one of three MUST have items. You need to verify that you've got the other two OR you're drowning in fuel negating any chance of creating an explosion in the chamber. #1. Pull all the plugs and dry them or get new ones. Allow the engine to sit without plugs so that the excessive fuel evaporates from each cylinder. #2. While you have the plugs out run a compression test to verify you have compression, eliminate this unknown.#3. Put the plugs in and start the car. No start? You're missing spark. Or.... When the water pump puked did the engine get very hot running dry before you realized it and it stopped? You may have overheated it and blown the head gasket, this may or may not show up in a compression test. It will show up in a cylinder leakage test or show up once the engine is running as clouds of sweet smelling white smoke in cold start up.Keep us postedDave
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djkeev
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

Oh, BTW .... There is no reason that a leaking water pump will shut off a running engine. There is no connection between fuel, spark and coolant ( outside of engine temperature sensors which make fuel adjustments while running but don't have the ability to turn off when hot).If the engine turned itself off, it was from extreme over heating either seizing the engine or coolant being introduced into the combustion chambers.Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

OK, I tested all of the plugs and all of the wire/coils, all good, I am getting spark. Like I said before, I am getting fuel as well. So I did a compression test, on 3 out of 4 NOTHING! I am getting no compression what so ever, the needle bounces off the zero slightly while cranking, but is not getting a reading. The far right cylinder is reading at 60 psi. I think I may have blew the head gasket?
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
skimask
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Post by skimask »

No compression on 3 of 4 cylinders suggests to me that you've got something going on other than a blown head gasket (unless it's REALLY blown good or the head is warped beyond belief).....like a snapped timing chain, wrecked sprockets/gears, etc.Pop the valve cover, crank the engine over briefly and see if the valve train is doing what it should...i.e. turning.If you pull ALL spark plugs out, does it spin over any faster while cranking than if all of the plugs are installed?
djkeev
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

Quote, originally posted by brandnewrock8 »OK, I tested all of the plugs and all of the wire/coils, all good, I am getting spark. Like I said before, I am getting fuel as well. So I did a compression test, on 3 out of 4 NOTHING! I am getting no compression what so ever, the needle bounces off the zero slightly while cranking, but is not getting a reading. The far right cylinder is reading at 60 psi. I think I may have blew the head gasket? Sorry to hear that. You've got problems for sure. As just suggested, pull the valve cover and see if the valves are operating when the engine cranks over.I suspected that you did damage when you mentioned the car lost power.If you've got the means to introduce air pressure into a cylinder do so. I suspect that if are able to and remove the radiator cap that water and bubbles will come gushing out of the filler neck.You've got some work ahead of you I'm afraid. You need to find out what was damaged and to what extent.Pull your dipstick, is there coolant / water on it? Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Im going to pull the valve cover in a few hours after work, I checked the oil, no anitfreeze in it, I also checked the antifreeze for oil when I drained the resivoir to change the water pump, no oil there either. But alas, I fear this problem is reaching the extents of my comfortability and skill, might have to call a mechanic in for this one.
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

If I do the air pressure test you are suggesting, and I get air and bubbles coming out of the radiator what does that mean? Also, will the bubbles come out of the radiator itself or the resivoir? Thanks
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
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trb
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Re: 04 Will crank, but will not start. (brandnewrock8)

Post by trb »

That means the air is escaping the cylinders (bad) and getting into the coolant passages, probably through a blown head gasket, or warped or cracked head. If that is the case, sounds like you will need to pull the head and have it checked at a minimum. The bubbles will travel to the radiator first, and if the radiator cap is on, they can go to the overflow reservoir.Edit: if the valvetrain is not moving, then the valves on the 3 cylinders could be open a bit and that is why you would not have any compression on them. I haven't read up on the 1.8, but I'm assuming it is a non valve to piston contact motor?
Thomas
the "Mustang Guy"
1987 5.0 LX Mustang
2016 Mustang GT - current daily
2004 Satellite Vibe &
2009 Red Vibe GT -twin's cars
2003 Neptune Vibe GT - prior daily
2010 Red Vibe GT - RIP 6/16/14
2006 Platinum Vibe - son's car
skimask
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Post by skimask »

I can't seem to find a straight answer to the "interference" vs "non-interference" engine question either.The stuff I've google'd and found is for the most part, anecdotal evidence (i.e. "I busted a chain and didn't smack a valve" or "I threw a timing chain and put holes in 3 pistons")... Nothing concrete one way or the other.You'd figure by now manufacturers would make ALL engines non-interference types, but...sigh...hasn't happened yet...
djkeev
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Re: (skimask)

Post by djkeev »

Interference or not, I don't know BUT, my years of experience pretty much tell me that IF a valve train is driven via chain, often they don't worry about interference and often there is interference.That being said I just looked at my 07 factory service manual and there are no warnings about not rotating the engine or cams without the chain on. I'm guessing (notice GUESSING) that means there are no piston to valve contact worries.BTW Compression specs are 218lbs with a minimum of 145 lbs and no more than 15 lbs variation between cylinders.Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Dave, so let me understand what you are trying to tell me. Are you saying that if in fact the cause of my problem is a broken timing chain, and not a warped head, or bad head gasket, then I could get away with just replacing the timing chain?
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
djkeev
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

I don't know what your problem is. What we know from your posts....1. You've got fuel in the combustion chamber2. You've got spark at the plugs.So all you need is compression and it will run but you tell us that...3. You don't have compression or very poor compression.No compression means one or a combination of things.A. Camshaft is not rotating thus the valves are not opening and closing. If the cam is stationary, one intake will be open, one exhaust will be open, on one cylinder the intake and exhaust should both be closed or mostly closed and on another cylinder a valve is partially open. All depends upon the stroke when the chain broke...if it broke.B. The head gasket is shot from being overheatedC. The head is warped or cracked from being overheatedD. The cylinder wall is cracked from being over heated.E. The piston rings are shot from being run hot and are stuck in the piston ring grooves.First thing, pull the valve cover, have someone turn the key to activate the starter and see if the cams turn via the timing chain.If the cams turn, you've ruled out the chain and now are focusing on a major compression loss in the combustion chamber. This is where the cylinder leak down test comes in to play. You pressurize the chamber and look for obvious leaks of air.1. bubbles out of the radiator? Leak into cooling jacket2. air hissing out of the exhaust pipe? Exhaust valve burned or stuck open.3. air hissing out of the intake pipe? Intake valve burned or stuck4. Air hissing out of the crankcase (most often at the oil fill cap) A leak into the crankcase, head gasket maybe or worse.Fact is, you lost your coolant because of the water pump. You didn't know it and drove until the engine stopped itself....BAD BAD BAD scenario! Often large sums of money are required to fix damage that happens from a situation like this.Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Hi Dave, took the cover off, had a buddy help, while he turned the key I watched. The rear cam shaft is not spinning, the chain is intact and the front cam shaft spins, and the rear camshaft gear is spinning, but the camshaft itself is not spinning. Whats next? Thanks again for all your help so far!
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

I was looking at a picture of the cam shaft ear online, it looks like it has a pin of some sort that is petruding out of the shaft, it looks like possibly that pin is made so that it will shear off in the event that the timing chain is being prevented from turning? This is all speculation, but I thought I would throw it out there...
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
skimask
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Post by skimask »

Ouch!That sounds like it might cost some $$$. But sounds like you've got a decent theory going on with the pin and all.If the engine is actually "non-interference", then you should get lucky and just be able to replace the cam/gear/etc and not have to tear down the top.If the engine is "interference", well, OUCH!
djkeev
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

Quote, originally posted by brandnewrock8 »Hi Dave, took the cover off, had a buddy help, while he turned the key I watched. The rear cam shaft is not spinning, the chain is intact and the front cam shaft spins, and the rear camshaft gear is spinning, but the camshaft itself is not spinning. Whats next? Thanks again for all your help so far!Well, ain't that a curious pickle!!??!!This wasn't something I expected you to report back with. Very strange actually!Cam shafts do seize, camshafts do crack and break, on a Toyota Corolla.....not so much.What may have happened?Well, the cam may have cracked and only the portion with the sprocket on it is turning. Happens to GM V6 engines.The pin at the sprocket may have sheared.....highly highly unusual! You'd need to pin to shear and the bolt to loosen all at the same time!What would cause that pin to shear?Camshaft stopped turning and LOCKED UP SOLID!!! Something would have to give, the sprocket, the chain or the pin.Camshafts don't just lock up. They rotate and depress valves, a fairly easy task with little resistance.Can you rotate the cam by grabbing it with a pair of pliers?OK, a theory.You overheated the engine......severely This thinned out the oil cutting it's ability to lubricate drasticallyThe cams are the last point on an engine to receive pressurized lubricating oil. The oil was so thin, the oil pressure dropped, oil didn't make it to the cam yet the engine continues to spin. This caused extreme heat at the cam bearings, metal melted and locked up the cam solid.Drain you engine oil and capture it. Is is all pretty and sparkly? Not unlike metallic nail polish? Fine glitter in the oil, use a flashlight to enhance the reflections.If you do. Time to go engine shopping for you've destroyed this one!Sorry.....Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

YIKES! Ill drain the oil tonight after work, and let you know what I find.... Thanks!
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
skimask
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Post by skimask »

Ya suppose maybe blowing out the water pump and overheating the engine would've warped the head THAT MUCH to cause a cam to seize up?I don't see it happening either (especially on a Toyota)...but...
djkeev
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Re: (skimask)

Post by djkeev »

Quote, originally posted by skimask »Ya suppose maybe blowing out the water pump and overheating the engine would've warped the head THAT MUCH to cause a cam to seize up?I don't see it happening either (especially on a Toyota)...but...I've seen some pretty severely warped heads in my time. The old OHC Mercedes straight 6 had major head issues, warps and cracks, never saw a cam lock up. I've had cranks that wouldn't rotate in the old Air Cooled VW engines that had / have case warping problems when driven hard. If you don't align bore it when rebuild the engine and then you reassemble the warped case with new tight main bearings the misalignment completely locks the crank as you tighten the case halves together.No, this is a strange situation, it will be interesting to see where this path leads.Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

I was super busy at work today, so I didnt get to calling any local shops, but I plan on trying to Saturday, as tomorrow I get the pleasure of spending my entire day in one long work meeting. Oh boy lucky me! I found an engine at a local scrap yard for $1600 with 40,000 miles on it, does that sound like a deal to you guys? I am considering going new if the expense to repair the issue is too great...
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Any how tos on dropping the motor in here? I had a look around, couldnt find anything...
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
djkeev
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

Why not first find out if yours is really shot or not?Planning to replace before a complete diagnosis may be rushing things a little.Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Your probably right, I am just anxious to find out, but the shops around me were all closed by the time I got home from work... Ill let you guys know what happens.
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Also, do you guys know if it is OK for me to tow my car with a tow strap? I dont want to mess anything up further, a guy I work with tells me I shouldn't, but I thought I would get a second opinion...
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
skimask
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Post by skimask »

Towing...If it's an automatic...How far and how fast?Not too far, under a mile or two, and not too fast, like under 10-15mph, you're most likely ok.If it's a manual, don't go TOOOOOO far and TOOOOO fast, a few miles under 30mph at most.
djkeev
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

Towing.Standard transmission. No problem, put it in neutral, towing is gear will do nothing any good! Just be really really careful towing with a strap for under the best of conditions it is a highly dangerous thing to do and in some areas flat out illegal.Auto transmission, DON'T!!!!!!!!!!!!! Get a dolly and put the front wheels on it.AWD set up, DON'T tow, DON'T Dolly!!!!!!!!!!!!! all four wheels must be off the ground....flatbed truck my friend.Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

I have an Auto, so Ill be renting a dolly then. Can you explain why this is? I thought in Neutral nothing in the motor or tranny moved? I guess I am mistaken.
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
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trb
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by trb »

The axles and the gears attached to them are still moving, and creating heat in the AT fluid. A manual trans can handle the movement without heating up and damaging the transmission, but the auto trans can not. If you were just going a mile or so, you would probably be OK, but I would not go further. You don't want this to turn into an even more expensive repair.
Thomas
the "Mustang Guy"
1987 5.0 LX Mustang
2016 Mustang GT - current daily
2004 Satellite Vibe &
2009 Red Vibe GT -twin's cars
2003 Neptune Vibe GT - prior daily
2010 Red Vibe GT - RIP 6/16/14
2006 Platinum Vibe - son's car
brandnewrock8
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Re: (trb)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Right, not looking to cut corners here, just was wondering how that all worked. Thanks for the info, for 40 bucks I can rent a dolly and pull it with my truck, no biggy. Thanks!
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

So I went out in the garage, and took some channel locks, and I was able to turn the rear cam shaft, not very easily, but not all that hard either. Im thinking if I can find a camshaft somewhat cheap I may just try replacing it and resetting the timing, just to see. What do you guys think? If anyone knows of a guide to doing that I would appreciate it.Thanks!
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
skimask
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Post by skimask »

If you take the rear cam out, you'll probably have to take both cams out anyways, so I'm thinking best to run a compression check when you KNOW all the valves are closed (or at least supposed to be closed) to verify you don't have any bent valves.Other than that, I don't see any REAL problem with your plan other than you're fixing the end result of the problem and not digging in a bit and finding the original cause of the problem, which could very well have been just a pin that sheared on the end of the cam/etc. as described above.But if it happens again, without checking into it a bit more, will it smack valves? Wreck valves? Crack/warp the head? Etc?
djkeev
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Re: (skimask)

Post by djkeev »

Before spending money and purchasing a cam or an engine, do as suggested, pull the cams and run a compression check, still no good? Pull the head and look for bad gasket or cracks. At this point you will need to make some serious and costly decisions.A manual ?? Best there is..... Not cheap but all encompassing...http://www.helminc.com/helm/ho...earchDave
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djkeev
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Post by djkeev »

Quote, originally posted by b03matrix »Service manual: http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/good Link! I bookmarked it! Thanks.
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brandnewrock8
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Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Right on fellas, Ill let you know where we go from here!
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Guys,I was about to pull the cams and do the compression check like you said, but I was talking with a buddy, and he brought up a very good pointing my mind... If I pull the cam shafts, wont all of the valves then be open? And if so, how do I close them to do a compression test? My friend suggested turning my broken camshaft manually to close each cylinder one at a time, and checking the compression as I go. I was about to go do this, but the battery is now dead from sitting there... So I have the charger on it now...Thanks!
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
skimask
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by skimask »

(Disclaimer: I'm not 100% on this because I haven't looked at the exact mechanicals of the 1.8L Vibe engine, but I'm assuming it's set up like practically EVERY other engine out there)When you pull the cams, the lobes that open the valves aren't there anymore, but the springs/keepers/etc that keep them closed ARE still there.I hope this friend of yours is NOT some kind of mechanic, 'cause those 2 points he brought up are about silly (well, the first one is totally out there, the 2nd one, depends on the situation)
brandnewrock8
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Re: (skimask)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Ohhh man! Well I decided to go try what my friend told me, an here is what happened....I turned the cam shaft so the lobes were pointed down on the 1st cylinder. Is that open or closed? IO am now confused, I thought that was open, but I am no master mechanic by any means... Anyway, I then put the compression tester in the 1st cylinder and turned the car over 5 revolutions or so, and checked the compression, nothing.. But I then noticed that the camshaft had turned. So I turned it back to the position I started with, (closed?) and tried it again, with the same results. I tried it a third time, this time, when I turned it over, I heard a metallic bang sound from the motor, not like a motor fire (obviously, the plugs have been pulled), but the sound of two metal parts hitting each other. I then got scared, but being the moron that I am, I tried one more time, the motor will not turn over at all anymore... So now I am thinking I messed up big time... What the heck did I do?!
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Also, keep in mind, I didn't read your last post before trying this....
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
djkeev
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

I fear you may be in beyond your mechanical knowledge but let me give it a go.If the camshaft is removed from the engine, all valves will be closed (unless they are damaged (bent, burned) but that's a different topic all together)When the cam lobes point with the high spot up away from the valve spring, the valve is closed. They open by the cam rotating them and depressing the stem of the valve down (the spring is hooked onto the stem and pulls the valve back closed after every opening).When you operate the starter, the starter engages the flywheel which is bolted to the crankshaft and turns the crankshaft. on the front of the crankshaft is a gear upon which the timing chain runs. When the crank turns, it turns the timing chain which in turn rotates the cam shafts. So, unless you disconnect the timing chain (or remove the camshafts which requires disconnecting the timing chain) the cam will rotate. If the cam timing is off (the coordination of the crankshaft and the camshafts) it is possible to have open valves when the piston comes up to form compression.What I would do.....Remove the timing cover and remove the timing chain.Remove the cam shafts.Operate the starter and check each cylinder for compression. If you have compression in all four cylinders you are good! Fix the camshaft issues and set everything up properly and drive away.If you don't have compression, I'd pull the cylinder head and see what the gasket looks like and then look carefully for cracks in the head or in the cylinder walls.Depending upon what you find determine how to proceed.Also, did you ever check you oil like I mentioned for "glitter"??BTW, don't listen to your "mechanic" friend, his knowledge seems to be limited and sketchy!Dave
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brandnewrock8
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Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

But base don my previous post, would you say I bent a valve by having it stuck open and trying to turn the car over?
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Also, yes I checked the oil, it looks clean, smells ok too, not milky nor did I see metal flakes. All I did was pull the dip stick though, should I just go ahead and drain it?
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
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Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

It isn't 100% clear if this is an interference engine or not. IT is entirely possible it isn't as well as possible it is. You may be the one that tells us once and for all if it is!Good about the oil, that's encouraging. I'm not sure why the cam pin sheared off, that's either a mystery or a weird coincidence! At this point, you've nothing to lose by pulling the timing chain and the cams. Take a compression test then. If it is a head or head gasket, you've got to do all of this work anyway so no loss. If it is a trashed engine, oh well, you're older and smarter!Dave
(o ! /o) (o)=I=(o)
brandnewrock8
Posts: 76
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:04 am

Re: (djkeev)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

But why would the motor not turn over at all now? It was until like I said above, the metal on metal clank sound I heard when trying my friends method....
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
Posts: 76
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:04 am

Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

Also, I ended up draining all of the oil, just to see, and it too was clean and smelled fine.
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
brandnewrock8
Posts: 76
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:04 am

Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by brandnewrock8 »

And with the cranckshaft not turning fully around, I cannot allign the notch on the crankshaft pully to the "0" mark as per these instructions, see step 10.http://madstyle1972.com/Repair...1.pdfI can get it within 1/8 of a turn away but not all the way, it stops as if the piston in cylinder #1 is hitting something, it did NOT do that before I took my idiot friends advise... Of course I am the idiot for taking it.. Oh boy! How do I proceed? Can I just make a mark on the crank shaft where it is aligned with the "0" mark now, even though the notch itself is not alligned? If so I would then proceed to make marks on both cams as well befor eI pull them correct?
-BrentThats the way she goes, sometimes she goes, some times she don't, today she didn't go. - Ray - Trailer Park Boys
djkeev
Posts: 1357
Joined: Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:51 pm

Re: (brandnewrock8)

Post by djkeev »

Ah, I missed the part about not rotating! I was at work reading in a hurry.It's time to start diassembling, get the timing chain off and see if the crank rotates with the chain off. If it does, pull the cams and do a compression test. Maybe something is buggered in the timing gears? Maybe something fell in the chain while you've had the valve cover off? Hard to diagnosis via keyboard.Dave
(o ! /o) (o)=I=(o)
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