GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Posted: **Fri Jan 03, 2020 6:06 pm**

Finally got the new CV halfshaft axles installed on my 2004 Vibe GT. I have to confess though due to me working 7-10's continuous lately, I had my buddy who owns an automotive shop perform the work. All I can say is WOW ... what a difference !!!. So today I was cruising south on I-75 and the ride was so smooth that I was doing over 80 (3400 RPM roughly on the six speed tranny) and didn't even realize it. Quickly backed it down as Ohio has one of the worst states for getting pulled over by the highway patrol as they are everywhere on major interstates

I provided the parts (thanks to RockAuto) and they only charged me $175 for the labor. This included tire rotation, topped off all fluids, added tranny lube (lost some when one of the axles was removed) and an oil change (I provided oil & filter). Car is at a young 139k miles now and drives like brand new

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2020 9:27 pm**

tpollauf wrote: ↑Fri Jan 03, 2020 6:06 pm Finally got the new CV halfshaft axles installed on my 2004 Vibe GT. I have to confess though due to me working 7-10's continuous lately, I had my buddy who owns an automotive shop perform the work. All I can say is WOW ... what a difference !!!. So today I was cruising south on I-75 and the ride was so smooth that I was doing over 80 (3400 RPM roughly on the six speed tranny) and didn't even realize it. Quickly backed it down as Ohio has one of the worst states for getting pulled over by the highway patrol as they are everywhere on major interstates I provided the parts (thanks to RockAuto) and they only charged me $175 for the labor. This included tire rotation, topped off all fluids, added tranny lube (lost some when one of the axles was removed) and an oil change (I provided oil & filter). Car is at a young 139k miles now and drives like brand new

Thats great to hear.I didnt think new CV joints would make the ride smoother. At 260K My boots are torn....so im waiting for the infamous CLICK....CLICK on turns, so i guess I have a smoother ride to look forward to upon replacing

Posted: **Sun Jan 12, 2020 11:50 pm**

cptnsolo77 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 9:27 pm
tpollauf wrote: ↑Fri Jan 03, 2020 6:06 pm Finally got the new CV halfshaft axles installed on my 2004 Vibe GT. I have to confess though due to me working 7-10's continuous lately, I had my buddy who owns an automotive shop perform the work. All I can say is WOW ... what a difference !!!. So today I was cruising south on I-75 and the ride was so smooth that I was doing over 80 (3400 RPM roughly on the six speed tranny) and didn't even realize it. Quickly backed it down as Ohio has one of the worst states for getting pulled over by the highway patrol as they are everywhere on major interstates I provided the parts (thanks to RockAuto) and they only charged me $175 for the labor. This included tire rotation, topped off all fluids, added tranny lube (lost some when one of the axles was removed) and an oil change (I provided oil & filter). Car is at a young 139k miles now and drives like brand new
Thats great to hear.I didnt think new CV joints would make the ride smoother. At 260K My boots are torn....so im waiting for the infamous CLICK....CLICK on turns, so i guess I have a smoother ride to look forward to upon replacing

I've gone through four or five CV joints over the years. If the boots are torn, you need to either get new boots on there (there's a boot kit that wraps around), or replace them. They don't always grind/click on the turns - until your wheel is about to come off.

Posted: **Tue Jan 14, 2020 8:35 am**

Did this all in Dec but failed to post.

Replaced the front and side engine mounts .
All OEM Toyota replacments from here: https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/

How to replace all engine mounts:
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=47246&p=527091#p527091

Also replaced rear brakes:

Parts: Disregard what Amazon says....it DOES fit the Vibe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074R ... UTF8&psc=1

Posted: **Fri Jan 17, 2020 12:19 am**

Finished a 2500 mile trip in 3 days in last week. Gas tank being too small is still the only complaint.

Posted: **Tue Jan 28, 2020 12:17 pm**

Duplicate post

Posted: **Tue Jan 28, 2020 12:18 pm**

Well today was a first. The Vibe didn't start!

Nothing, completely dead. I'd replaced the battery preventively six months ago.

Getting a jump was a little problem. I didn't realize you can't put the AT in neutral without battery voltage. I wanted to push the car out of the garage for better access to the battery. I was able to maneuver the jumper vehicle just barely close enough for my cables. It started right up then.

Now I just realized that there's a bypass button for that reason on the console next to the shifter. First time I needed it and I forgot.

Of course, I had to reprogram the door locks. Then I went to reset the aftermarket radio and it was completely dead. I had to get the manual out to find a reset button behind the faceplate and then that worked.

Then I found the problem. Somehow I'd left the cargo area dome light "on." I don't remember ever touching it. I haven't driven in a week. Weird. Anyway, after a couple of niggling details, all is well.

Posted: **Tue Jan 28, 2020 6:00 pm**

andrewclaus wrote: ↑Tue Jan 28, 2020 12:18 pm I didn't realize you can't put the AT in neutral without battery voltage.

Yet another reason the manual tranny's are so much nicer than the auto's

Glad it was nothing major

Posted: **Wed Jan 29, 2020 3:55 am**

tpollauf wrote: ↑Tue Jan 28, 2020 6:00 pm
andrewclaus wrote: ↑Tue Jan 28, 2020 12:18 pm I didn't realize you can't put the AT in neutral without battery voltage.
Yet another reason the manual trannys are so much nicer than the autos.../quote]

Yeah, I agree. In fact that's why I replaced the Vibe battery last summer. My other car is a manual Subie and I can always push start that. I live in a mountainous area and usually park facing down hill for that reason. Hey, it's cheaper than a new battery. (I put the VIbe's old battery in the Subie because it was 'only' nine years old or something like that.)

Posted: **Thu Feb 06, 2020 10:56 am**

Replaced the rear shocks today.
I used Monroe quick struts P/N 171373L and 171373R.
Had no problem with the process.
I DID reuse the original fasteners as the new nuts/ bolts provided by Monroe looked inferior.

Posted: **Thu Feb 06, 2020 8:37 pm**

SSizler wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 10:56 am Replaced the rear shocks today.
I used Monroe quick struts P/N 171373L and 171373R.
Had no problem with the process.
I DID reuse the original fasteners as the new nuts/ bolts provided by Monroe looked inferior.

How long did it take you? Just curious.

Posted: **Thu Feb 06, 2020 11:07 pm**

Bookworm wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 8:37 pm
SSizler wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 10:56 am Replaced the rear shocks today.
I used Monroe quick struts P/N 171373L and 171373R.
Had no problem with the process.
I DID reuse the original fasteners as the new nuts/ bolts provided by Monroe looked inferior.
How long did it take you? Just curious.

Bookworm, since I recently purchased the car I am slow, cleaning and reconditioning everything I touch.

I spent 2 evenings doing the shocks, one night of disassembly / cleaning / painting and one night reassembling everything.
If I was just doing the shocks in a get-it-done fashion, it was probably a 3-4 hour job.
Being the compulsive clean it up type, I also had to clean the lug nuts / lugs, front and back side of the wheels, wheel wells, check the brakes, clean and paint the drums, scrub the interior floor of spilled stinky crap after removing the rear plastic and spare, etc.
I also spent quite a while trying to find the correct torque values for the fasteners, finally settling on 39 foot pounds for the small bolts and nuts on top, and 80 foot pounds on the large nut at the bottom of the shock. I have about 16 total hours in the job.

I enjoy making my cars look like new. The dirtier they are to start with the more satisfaction I get from the final results, and this car is family / 2 carseat kids filthy......

Posted: **Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:48 am**

SSizler wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 11:07 pm
Bookworm wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 8:37 pm
SSizler wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 10:56 am Replaced the rear shocks today.
I used Monroe quick struts P/N 171373L and 171373R.
Had no problem with the process.
I DID reuse the original fasteners as the new nuts/ bolts provided by Monroe looked inferior.
How long did it take you? Just curious.
Bookworm, since I recently purchased the car I am slow, cleaning and reconditioning everything I touch.
I spent 2 evenings doing the shocks, one night of disassembly / cleaning / painting and one night reassembling everything.
If I was just doing the shocks in a get-it-done fashion, it was probably a 3-4 hour job.
Being the compulsive clean it up type, I also had to clean the lug nuts / lugs, front and back side of the wheels, wheel wells, check the brakes, clean and paint the drums, scrub the interior floor of spilled stinky crap after removing the rear plastic and spare, etc.
I also spent quite a while trying to find the correct torque values for the fasteners, finally settling on 39 foot pounds for the small bolts and nuts on top, and 80 foot pounds on the large nut at the bottom of the shock. I have about 16 total hours in the job.
I enjoy making my cars look like new. The dirtier they are to start with the more satisfaction I get from the final results, and this car is family / 2 carseat kids filthy......

Hey, I fully understand. I buy used fountain pens and razors

Cleaning is half the fun.

Going to be interesting when you get to the front end. Going to do a full disassembly and replace all the tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar links, etc, while you do the shocks? Motor mounts

Posted: **Fri Feb 07, 2020 9:27 am**

Bookworm wrote: ↑Fri Feb 07, 2020 8:48 am
SSizler wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 11:07 pm
Bookworm wrote: ↑Thu Feb 06, 2020 8:37 pm

How long did it take you? Just curious.
Bookworm, since I recently purchased the car I am slow, cleaning and reconditioning everything I touch.
I spent 2 evenings doing the shocks, one night of disassembly / cleaning / painting and one night reassembling everything.
If I was just doing the shocks in a get-it-done fashion, it was probably a 3-4 hour job.
Being the compulsive clean it up type, I also had to clean the lug nuts / lugs, front and back side of the wheels, wheel wells, check the brakes, clean and paint the drums, scrub the interior floor of spilled stinky crap after removing the rear plastic and spare, etc.
I also spent quite a while trying to find the correct torque values for the fasteners, finally settling on 39 foot pounds for the small bolts and nuts on top, and 80 foot pounds on the large nut at the bottom of the shock. I have about 16 total hours in the job.
I enjoy making my cars look like new. The dirtier they are to start with the more satisfaction I get from the final results, and this car is family / 2 carseat kids filthy......
Hey, I fully understand. I buy used fountain pens and razors Cleaning is half the fun.

Going to be interesting when you get to the front end. Going to do a full disassembly and replace all the tie rod ends, ball joints, sway bar links, etc, while you do the shocks? Motor mounts

Actually, I have no plans to replace any front end parts yet.
The struts are not leaking or bouncy or clunking. The car drives straight and true.
The brakes were replaced by the previous owner just before I purchased the car.
So, I will just be removing / cleaning the wheels front and back, scrubbing the wheel wells, painting as needed and checking all parts for wear.

Posted: **Sun Feb 09, 2020 9:34 am**

Replaced a crusty PCV valve today.
Added some Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel and the crankcase - 4 ounces each.
Hoping for some slow, gentle sludge cleeaning.
I will be changing oil and filter at 1,000 mile intervals for a while.

Posted: **Sun Feb 09, 2020 10:33 am**

SSizler wrote: ↑Sun Feb 09, 2020 9:34 am Replaced a crusty PCV valve today.
Added some Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel and the crankcase - 4 ounces each.
Hoping for some slow, gentle sludge cleeaning.
I will be changing oil and filter at 1,000 mile intervals for a while.

If you're going to do that, don't bother with changing the oil. Just put in a new filter, and enough oil to compensate for the pint or so left in the filter. You want to remove the contaminants; the oil won't have broken down enough to be an issue. (edit) You could even swap one out after two fuel fill-ups, or roughly 500 miles. That's usually the break in period for an engine.

Posted: **Sun Feb 09, 2020 1:59 pm**

Yesterday I finally got around to replacing the map light bulb with an LED on both the 04 and 05. The 04 burned out so I bought a pack of led bulbs on Amazon so I could do both. Somehow managed to blow the fuse on the 05 while I was putting the new bulb in, but lucky for me the fuse is in the engine compartment block. I used the 15a spare then picked up an assortment when I went by Walmart later. I think I remember getting to the inside fuse block on the 04 once many years ago, seems like I had to lay on my back across the passenger seat and wiggle myself down till my head was by the pedals. I think I'm too old and fat to attempt that move again.

Posted: **Sun Feb 09, 2020 4:24 pm**

Mark wrote: ↑Sun Feb 09, 2020 1:59 pm Yesterday I finally got around to replacing the map light bulb with an LED on both the 04 and 05. The 04 burned out so I bought a pack of led bulbs on Amazon so I could do both. Somehow managed to blow the fuse on the 05 while I was putting the new bulb in, but lucky for me the fuse is in the engine compartment block. I used the 15a spare then picked up an assortment when I went by Walmart later. I think I remember getting to the inside fuse block on the 04 once many years ago, seems like I had to lay on my back across the passenger seat and wiggle myself down till my head was by the pedals. I think I'm too old and fat to attempt that move again.

I recently had to get under the dash to replace a lighter fuse I fried while replacing bulbs.
I ended up taking the drivers seat out.

It was just four bolts and the seat belt / airbag electrical connector, much easier than the contortion act required otherwise.
There is plenty of room under there. Not sure why they had to put it right behind the dashboard.

Posted: **Sun Mar 01, 2020 9:34 am**

Replaced power steering return hose. Its the U shaped hose coming out of the reservior. Toyota wont sell you just the hose. I picked up a 2ft length of 3/8" power steering hose at O reillys for 5 bucks. its a TIGHT fit and be carefull sliding the hose over the plastic reservior connection. This hose has been weeping for years, I put on worm gear clamp and that helped for a long time, but I finally just changed it.

Part: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/pr ... turn&pos=0

Posted: **Sun Mar 01, 2020 11:59 pm**

Just minor stuff this time.
Visited my Toyota mechanic buddy yesterday (Sunday) and got help diagnosing my bad belt tensioner and also a bad front wheel bearing.
Got some plastic dart fasteners from his stash and attached the rear hatch plastic cover that was rattling due to 2 loose / broken darts, and found one to fit a plastic cover inside the front fender under the hood support rod. I also got a replacement hood support rod gromment last week and installed it on Saturday, had to pound the hole back into shape as the previous owner had it elongated from using it with no grommet.
Will be ordering parts today, tensioner, belt, wheel bearing and bearing retainer.

Posted: **Wed Mar 04, 2020 8:51 pm**

Well, a little delay while doing some research, but today I ordered the belt tensioner, new serpentine belt, 2 front wheel bearings and retainer clips, 2 KYB front strut-plus units and 2 AC Delco sway bar end links with nylon lockers, end links per bookworms research.
I also started the siphon / replace_with_clean process for the power steering fluid, using Valvoline long life DEX/MERC ATF.
I will let you know how many reservoir replacement cycles it takes to get the PS fluid looking red again.

Posted: **Sat Mar 07, 2020 9:49 pm**

SSizler wrote: ↑Wed Mar 04, 2020 8:51 pm Well, a little delay while doing some research, but today I ordered the belt tensioner, new serpentine belt, 2 front wheel bearings and retainer clips, 2 KYB front strut-plus units and 2 AC Delco sway bar end links with nylon lockers, end links per bookworms research.
I also started the siphon / replace_with_clean process for the power steering fluid, using Valvoline long life DEX/MERC ATF.
I will let you know how many reservoir replacement cycles it takes to get the PS fluid looking red again.

Yeah, I found out that if you need to replace the crush nut sway bar links, you have to cut them off with a hacksaw or grinder. Lock nuts are a pain to remove, but at least you _can_.

Posted: **Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:36 pm**

Finally got around to installing a USB charging port in my 2004 Vibe GT. It went right where the cig lighter used to be. Slight filing to increase the diameter BUT it pretty much was an exact fit. Turned out nice

A day pic of it and a couple night pics.

Posted: **Sun Mar 08, 2020 7:18 pm**

I have one of those - it's going to go in my center console, so I can drop a phone/battery bank in there to charge, and close the lid.

Posted: **Mon Mar 09, 2020 3:16 pm**

Replaced battery, starter, and electric radiator fan assembly.

Cleaned and painted battery terminals.

Posted: **Tue Mar 10, 2020 3:07 am**

Currently have 6 rims, and 6 new tires in the back of the car to get mounted and balanced for the summer wheels. I almost doubted myself that 12 tires will fit in the car. Who was I kidding?

Posted: **Wed Mar 11, 2020 4:40 pm**

Last week I also made a minor repair to my sons 2009 Vibe GT drivers side rear door. Apparently a couple months ago, while the door was in an opened state, a huge gust of wind came by and SLAMMED the door shut extremely hard! The force of this separated the double faced tape which held a foam isolation/insulation pad in place of the door panel. He noticed this every time the door closed. It made a "hollow" sound instead of a "solid" sound. Sure enough when I opened up the door panel I found the problem right away. Caulked the pad back in place with 100% silicone and we're back to normal.

Posted: **Wed Mar 11, 2020 5:07 pm**

I've been replacing the engine mounts individually as time permits, finally finished that up today.

: 20200311_185635.jpg (416.49 KiB) Viewed 241698 times

Bought another mount from Beck-Arnley for the front. Since the left and rear mounts are much more work to replace, I went OEM (chose Toyota for the left, GM for the rear due to the pricing.)

When I replaced the front mount, the vibration in gear at idle actually got *worse.* I don't know how much of that is from where it's idling like crap in general or whether there's something up with the new mount. I'll try to work on the idle next and see if I can get things smoothed out. If all else fails, I'll just have to replace the front mount with an OEM part.

I saved the rear mount for last since I knew I was in for a real treat . Trying to yank the old mount out and drop the new one in was the crappiest game of Tetris I've ever played. I don't recommend it.

Posted: **Thu Mar 12, 2020 8:28 pm**

ColonelPanic wrote: ↑Wed Mar 11, 2020 5:07 pm I've been replacing the engine mounts individually as time permits, finally finished that up today.

20200311_185635.jpg

Bought another mount from Beck-Arnley for the front. Since the left and rear mounts are much more work to replace, I went OEM (chose Toyota for the left, GM for the rear due to the pricing.)

When I replaced the front mount, the vibration in gear at idle actually got *worse.* I don't know how much of that is from where it's idling like crap in general or whether there's something up with the new mount. I'll try to work on the idle next and see if I can get things smoothed out. If all else fails, I'll just have to replace the front mount with an OEM part.

I saved the rear mount for last since I knew I was in for a real treat . Trying to yank the old mount out and drop the new one in was the crappiest game of Tetris I've ever played. I don't recommend it.

LOL

Im in the same boat. I replaced all of except that dreaded rear mount. I was HOPING if i replaced 3 the vibration wouldnt be so bad but NOOOOO.....you have to replace that last one ! Actually the vibration got WORSE when I replaced the 3rd one...so I was like....oh looks like I have to change that darn rear mount. It was actually very smooth when I just replaced the side mounts. I need to replace them soon because I have been driving with 3 new mounts for and the old rear one for 2 months and I dont want to wear the new ones prematurely.

Any tips for the rear mount ? I found 2 youtube vids where they did it from up top. Im REALLY considering having a shop do the rear mount....I had a hunch that one would be a nightmare. I DID NOT like what I saw on the vids

You are giving me even more reason for a shop to do it

How does it drive now ? Im betting it drives very smooth now. I absolutely cannot stand the vibration I have. Especially when cold (removed)

Posted: **Fri Mar 13, 2020 3:42 am**

cptnsolo77 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 12, 2020 8:28 pm
ColonelPanic wrote: ↑Wed Mar 11, 2020 5:07 pm I've been replacing the engine mounts individually as time permits, finally finished that up today.

20200311_185635.jpg

Bought another mount from Beck-Arnley for the front. Since the left and rear mounts are much more work to replace, I went OEM (chose Toyota for the left, GM for the rear due to the pricing.)

When I replaced the front mount, the vibration in gear at idle actually got *worse.* I don't know how much of that is from where it's idling like crap in general or whether there's something up with the new mount. I'll try to work on the idle next and see if I can get things smoothed out. If all else fails, I'll just have to replace the front mount with an OEM part.

I saved the rear mount for last since I knew I was in for a real treat . Trying to yank the old mount out and drop the new one in was the crappiest game of Tetris I've ever played. I don't recommend it.
LOL Im in the same boat. I replaced all of except that dreaded rear mount. I was HOPING if i replaced 3 the vibration wouldnt be so bad but NOOOOO.....you have to replace that last one ! Actually the vibration got WORSE when I replaced the 3rd one...so I was like....oh looks like I have to change that darn rear mount. It was actually very smooth when I just replaced the side mounts. I need to replace them soon because I have been driving with 3 new mounts for and the old rear one for 2 months and I dont want to wear the new ones prematurely.

Any tips for the rear mount ? I found 2 youtube vids where they did it from up top. Im REALLY considering having a shop do the rear mount....I had a hunch that one would be a nightmare. I DID NOT like what I saw on the vids You are giving me even more reason for a shop to do it

How does it drive now ? Im betting it drives very smooth now. I absolutely cannot stand the vibration I have. Especially when cold (removed)

The #1 tip I saw for the rear mount is to pound out that center stud on the new one, and replace it with an equivalent bolt and nut. Will still serve the same purpose , without the aggravation.

Posted: **Fri Mar 13, 2020 6:53 am**

Oh wow....I did some serious research on doing this and never came across that one. I can see how that would be a BIG help THX

Posted: **Fri Mar 13, 2020 7:11 am**

cptnsolo77 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 13, 2020 6:53 am Oh wow....I did some serious research on doing this and never came across that one. I can see how that would be a BIG help THX

a few folks on the FB page recommend that.

I haven't done it myself, but whenever I decide to yank the engine to reseal the timing cover, that may be my plan of attack for that rear mount.

Posted: **Sat Mar 14, 2020 9:34 pm**

Replced the noisy belt tensioner and installed a new old stock Gatorback belt.

Man, that belt was a tight fit. I hope it stretches a bit before I ever have to remove it.

Posted: **Sun Mar 15, 2020 7:23 am**

Best belt !

Posted: **Mon Mar 16, 2020 2:58 am**

SSizler wrote: ↑Sat Mar 14, 2020 9:34 pm Replced the noisy belt tensioner and installed a new old stock Gatorback belt.

Man, that belt was a tight fit. I hope it stretches a bit before I ever have to remove it.

Secret: slide the belt over the flat water pump pulley last. It is MUCH easier to slide it over that flat pulley than it is to try and lift it up over the grooved alternator pulley.

Posted: **Mon Mar 16, 2020 9:23 am**

zbyers wrote: ↑Mon Mar 16, 2020 2:58 am
SSizler wrote: ↑Sat Mar 14, 2020 9:34 pm Replced the noisy belt tensioner and installed a new old stock Gatorback belt.

Man, that belt was a tight fit. I hope it stretches a bit before I ever have to remove it.
Secret: slide the belt over the flat water pump pulley last. It is MUCH easier to slide it over that flat pulley than it is to try and lift it up over the grooved alternator pulley.

Oh sure, NOW you let out the secret!

I actually knew that from other cars I have worked on, but all the comments on the web recommend doing the alternator pulley last.
That's what I get for not thinking for myself.....

Posted: **Mon Mar 16, 2020 9:28 am**

SSizler wrote: ↑Mon Mar 16, 2020 9:23 am
zbyers wrote: ↑Mon Mar 16, 2020 2:58 am
SSizler wrote: ↑Sat Mar 14, 2020 9:34 pm Replced the noisy belt tensioner and installed a new old stock Gatorback belt.

Man, that belt was a tight fit. I hope it stretches a bit before I ever have to remove it.
Secret: slide the belt over the flat water pump pulley last. It is MUCH easier to slide it over that flat pulley than it is to try and lift it up over the grooved alternator pulley.
Oh sure, NOW you let out the secret!
I actually knew that from other cars I have worked on, but all the comments on the web recommend doing the alternator pulley last.
That's what I get for not thinking for myself.....

I used to go over the alternator pulley. Then someone mentioned going over the water pump, and I've never looked back. It also helps keep from rounding or breaking the very damage-prone tensioner hex.

Posted: **Fri Mar 20, 2020 4:40 pm**

I think the alternator pulley last is because on most _older_ vehicles, you used the alternator to do the tensioning - so you had a pivot bolt and a lock bolt. (whatever they called it)

So it just stuck.

---

Well, I had lots of damage done to my car today. After I just did some maintenance, AND the city is mostly locked down.

Posted: **Mon Mar 23, 2020 3:20 am**

Bookworm wrote: ↑Fri Mar 20, 2020 4:40 pm
Well, I had lots of damage done to my car today. After I just did some maintenance, AND the city is mostly locked down.

that doesn't sound healthy.

Posted: **Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:30 pm**

A couple weeks ago, I pulled the throttle body and gave it a good cleaning. Wish I would have taken before/after pics, it was pretty cruddy. Rotated the tires as well.

This weekend, I topped off the battery charge and replaced the cabin air filter. Cleaned up the interior and gave the outside a quick wash.

I've got a box full of cooling system parts waiting to go on - radiator hoses, heater hoses, thermostat. Would be a perfect time to replace all that stuff, but I can't find distilled water anywhere to mix the coolant with.

Posted: **Tue Mar 31, 2020 3:07 pm**

ColonelPanic wrote: ↑Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:30 pm Would be a perfect time to replace all that stuff, but I can't find distilled water anywhere to mix the coolant with.

I usually buy distilled water in a grocery store, but these days, its hard to know what might be in or out of stock in a grocery store, assuming you wanted to risk going in to one in the first place.

Posted: **Tue Mar 31, 2020 3:51 pm**

ColonelPanic wrote: ↑Sun Mar 29, 2020 6:30 pm Would be a perfect time to replace all that stuff, but I can't find distilled water anywhere to mix the coolant with.

Rain water ??? Although not as pure as distilled water, it's VERY close to it. And if you run it through a coffee filter you'll get even more of the TDS (total dissolved solids) out of it. From what I recall pure distilled H2O has about 5ppm TDS in it. Rain water, depending where the rain comes from, has roughly 20 ppm of TDS. Compared to tap water which is 300 ppm on up. Something to consider.

Posted: **Sun Apr 05, 2020 9:34 am**

Too bad I disconnected my rain barrel a while back.

That'd need some heavy duty filtering though, with the way my shingles are well past their prime.

Meijer was completely out of distilled last time I was there. It was hard to find even before people started hoarding stuff. The local grocery store only had a few (but with limits on purchase.) I left the water there for those who may need it for use in something other than an old car that's just going to sit around all the time. Younger me would be just using tap water and calling it a day, but the water in this town is extremely hard. It destroys everything in my house in short order.

Today out of sheer boredom, I drained the power steering reservoir, removed it and thoroughly cleaned out the gunk. Dumped fresh cheapo Dex/Merc through it, ran lock/to/lock a bunch of times, transfer pump out the fluid. Rinse, repeat. Yes, it would have been better to do a proper flush while I had the lines off, but that seemed more like a 2-person job.

That brake fluid is looking a bit dark after 2 years or so, maybe I'll flush that out this week too.

Finally, I washed the pollen and bird poop off of her.

Posted: **Sun Apr 05, 2020 8:47 pm**

Been spending my time repainting the cladding with duplicolor bumper paint. FYI.....DO NOT EVER EVER !!! paint the cladding. It will fade/chip it will look like CRAP and you will have to do it again, plus its A LOT of work. You will end up spending your life in " touch up " purgatory. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED !!!!!

Just get a decent spay wax and call it a day.

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 2:25 am**

cptnsolo77 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 05, 2020 8:47 pm Been spending my time repainting the cladding with duplicolor bumper paint. FYI.....DO NOT EVER EVER !!! paint the cladding. It will fade/chip it will look like CRAP and you will have to do it again, plus its A LOT of work. You will end up spending your life in " touch up " purgatory. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED !!!!!

Just get a decent spay wax and call it a day.

I painted mine 4-5 years ago. Doesn't look as good, but still looks OK. It is time to repaint, but I am contemplating getting rid of the car, so not overly worried.

However, I do agree. You'll constantly want to touch it up if you scratch it and whatnot. Are you going to put a clear coat over it to help protect it more?

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 12:32 pm**

One coat of Meguiars Cleaner Wax and a second coat using Mother's California Gold Micro Polish, applied with my trusty 8 year old german built Aldi buffer. The birds love the mirror shine. They've been targeting it all day.

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 3:37 pm**

Started into these yesterday.

: 20200406_185903 - Edited.jpg (247.67 KiB) Viewed 241049 times

Used Rustoleum self-etching primer, followed up with Rustoleum wheel paint ("Steel" color,) and finally a few coats of Rustoleum wheel clearcoat. I really like the color of this paint, it's very sparkly.

Where's the other one you might ask? When i was trying to get a final coat of the silver, a couple bugs decided to commit suicide. Probably wouldn't have been too noticeable, but I ended up making it worse when I tried to get them out of the paint. Ruined it, had to start over. Paint's drying on that that one, it gets clearcoat tomorrow.

I suck at painting, so they're far from perfect. But it's better than they were - curb rash, road grime/brake dust permanently etched, not to mention the yellow "accents" from where the paint on them was gone all together.

: 20200406_192314 - Edited.jpg (155.31 KiB) Viewed 241049 times

Next I'l be searching for some sort of Pontiac center decal...

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 5:03 pm**

CP: I think you should go with something a bit more radical:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/RAT-FINK-HELME ... 0005.m1851

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 6:10 pm**

Oh, that's awesome!

If only they had 'em smaller than 2", that's too big to fit in the center on those wheel covers.

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:46 am**

zbyers wrote: ↑Mon Apr 06, 2020 2:25 am
cptnsolo77 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 05, 2020 8:47 pm Been spending my time repainting the cladding with duplicolor bumper paint. FYI.....DO NOT EVER EVER !!! paint the cladding. It will fade/chip it will look like CRAP and you will have to do it again, plus its A LOT of work. You will end up spending your life in " touch up " purgatory. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED !!!!!

Just get a decent spay wax and call it a day.
I painted mine 4-5 years ago. Doesn't look as good, but still looks OK. It is time to repaint, but I am contemplating getting rid of the car, so not overly worried.

However, I do agree. You'll constantly want to touch it up if you scratch it and whatnot. Are you going to put a clear coat over it to help protect it more?

It has been 4 years when I painted it last. Maybe thats how long it will last on average for a repaint, but that doesnt include the touch ups I did during that period. I used clear in the first time and using it the 2nd time as well. The spray waxes have improved SOOOO much during the last 4-5 years making painting cladding obsolete....I wish I would have waited

My issue is that I used a product called refinish restorer BEFORE I painted and in some areas the paint did not stick and chipped off even after prepping the panels. It must have embedded into the plastic even after the product fadded. I do plan to keep the car so i decided to repaint it

I have to say it does look awesome when finished. This time Im using turtle was seal and shine spray wax ( GREAT STUFF ) to help with the fading. Figured I use spray wax because Im not rubbing the paint. Just clean with soap/water and microfiber towel. Hopefully it will last longer. At this point I have had the Vibe for 13 years this august and for it to look halfway decent with over 260K still impresses me.....

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