DIY - Automatic Tranny Fluid Change

[zionzr2]

More than the Drain and Fill but less than a Dealer power Flush!I took this DIY from the MO site: Quote, originally posted by madbikes @ Matrix Owners »I've just happen to change my overdue engine oil and the ATF is also due for a change too. Since I'm getting close to 110K miles, may as well change the ATF filter/strainer. I heard it's supposed to be changed, but there is not really a known interval. The whole process is not very hard. When you purchase it at dealerships, it's the best to have your VIN ready so the parts people can better locate the correct part/part#.Parts needed:-filter/strainer. When you get it, make sure there's a gasket-new gasket for the transaxle oil pan-4 to 5 quarts Type T-IV ATF.Procedures:-place vehicle on Jack stands or a lift if you can access one-remove transaxle oil pan drain plug to drain as much ATF as possible-remove transaxle oil pan slowly. Leave at least two bolts on the same side on until you're sure you can drop the pan open. Watch for the rest of ATF coming out from the pan. You can go ahead to clean the pan afterwards.-there are 3 bolts that hold the filter/strainer into place. Remove the bolts and the filter/strainer will come out-make sure you put some ATF around the gasket of the new filter/strainer. Install it and torque the bolts to the correct specs (7ft-lbf)-remove the old transaxle pan gasket and put the new one on. Hand tight the bolts first and tighten them (48in-lbf). Best to go in cris-cross pattern.-install transaxle oil pan drain plug (14ft-lbf)-remove the ATF dip stick. Use a funnel to help you pour the ATF into the filler tube.The spec says 3.2 quarts is for drain-and-fill, but I barely get to the 'low" mark after the whole 4-quart/one gallon bottle of ATF. I couldn't find specific procedure to fill the tranny. But we filled it with at least 3 quarts through the filler tube, let the car run for about couple minutes. Check ATF level, then add the rest.To check ATF:-run the car to operating temperature (you can go ahead and drive it around until operating temperature). Park on level ground.-put the e-brake on and cycle through all gears (P to L)-remove ATF dipstick and wipe it. Put it in and remove it. The top two notches are marked "hot". Add fluid if fluid level is below the 3 notch from the bottom of the dipstick.Also Added To our Maint. How-To Index!

[zionzr2]

I just did a drain and fill.Some notes You will need a 10mm allen for the drain plug.the fluid will begin to flow out as soon as its loosened be careful fluid will drain all over your tool and hands and down your arm. At least its straight down.I refilled with just shy of 3 quarts. It did seem like more than this drained out, but had no way to verify. Any way the level seems to be right on. I'll check it a few times to be sure.I used Royal Purple MAX ATF!

[vasiliy]

ha ha read the fine print - matrix owner. just came in, was doing atf change on our ford windstar. american engineers aren't smart enough to put the drain plug on transmission pan. my echo has it, it makes the change a breeze. on the american cars you have to remove the pan having the transmission full. what a flipping mess. good thing it is dark so my wife won't see it till tomorrow, hopefully i will be able to clean it up a bit before then. SAE !!!! the last time i did atf change in midas they used impact wrench to tighten the bolts, squeezed out the gasket and ruined the pan. i won't go to a shop to do this stuff anymore, think about your customers, put damn plug so i can drain the tranny before removing the pan. it is very simple.actually never mind, i'm not buying american cars anymore anyways so do not bother.

[j42.snyder]

I'm sure the lack of a drain plug on most North American transmissions has more to do with cost cutting than "smarts" of the engineers. In many cases, it's not exactly something that requires frequent attention.It certainly would make the job less messy - but it does protect the vehicle from the inexperienced DIY mechanic somewhat. I've heard of at least one person accidentally draining the transmission when they were aiming to do an oil change on the engine! There's also a better chance of somebody using the wrong fluid (or the wrong amount) and messing things up if they don't know what they're doing. Under/overfilling the oil, or using the wrong viscosity won't hurt much within reason - but the same thing can spell expensive disaster for a transmission.On any vehicle I've had with an automatic in the past, I've wanted to remove the pan when changing the fluid anyway - to change the filter and clean out the pan. At least on our Windstar it has a reusable gasket - which seemed to work quite nicely when I last changed the filter. Fortunately nobody had over-torqued the bolts for me previously.My '09 Vibe uses the new Toyota WS fluid according to the dipstick. I haven't priced it yet here in Canada - although I'm sure it won't be cheap. I only tow with it occasionally in the summer - but I'll probably change it around the 96,000km mark like they recommend for heavier usage. Depending on the cost of the fluid, I may decide to just do a "drain and fill" sooner if I think it's starting to look degraded (since I have a drain plug now). I'm just glad they still were nice enough to use a dipstick too. Not nearly as common these days as some people might think.As for the description of "American" cars - that's getting harder to define these days. With many "American" vehicles containing many imported components (sometimes the entire car!), and many "Imports" being assembled here with a fair share of domestic components - about the only thing that defines them is the location of their head offices. Even the engineering is spread around the globe for most manufacturers now. In my eyes, it's Chrysler that really needs to figure out what they're doing. GM's newest products are looking promising, and most of Ford's efforts over the past few years have also been doing fairly well. No manufacturer is without their "issues" - but some have much worse reputations they have to work hard to put behind themselves before people begin to trust again. Can anyone say "Hyundai"? Not that I'm in any way promoting a South Korean manufacturer - but they certainly came a long way since the Pony - and that wasn't without effort I'm sure.Sorry for running so far off topic. Just had to vent a little...John

[Caretaker]

====Sorry for running so far off topic. Just had to vent a little...====Was that vent or "drain"??

[rob12345]

Hello all,How much is everybody paying for the T-IV ATF fluid. I paid 13.75 a quart at the Pontiac dealership......!

[wallyuwl]

I just did a drain and fill in my 2003. I got Toyota brand T-IV at CarQuest for $6 per quart. Used about four quarts. Bought five to be safe. Also added LubeGuard red bottle.

[cptnsolo77]

This post reminder that I have to do mine soon. Did the dealer flush at 76K...going to do the drain & fill myself at 105K. Im at 99K now...wow it goes fast!

[leemur]

Did my 04 last week and the drain plug...for the tranny pan...was a 14 mm Hex nut with steel washer.

[Vaggeto]

Just wanted to add to this a bit since I recently did a drain and fill on my 2003 Automatic AWD Vibe. My Vibe has the U341F transmission which is important to note due to differences compared to the others.

• The fluid type is Type T-IV. I got it directly from a Toyota dealer for only around $7/quart. I bought 10 for 3 drain and fills.
• The drain plug is a 10MM allen wrench bolt. The torque on it for the U341F is 36 ft lbs. Much higher than the others listed in this thread.
• A simple drain and fill takes 3 quarts. The entire pan removal adds a bit to this.
• The OEM gasket is a cork type and it's for 19 bolt holes. Here's a picture of the Toyota Part #: I think it was around $12-$15.
  
• I'd recommend having some type of plastic razor/scraper to get bits of the old gasket off of the pan seal. It was a pain to get off without.
• The pan bolts are I believe 10mm, and are to be torqued at 69 inch pounds which is 5.75 ft lbs. I broke off a bolt by overtightening due to not knowing that my torque wrench only goes down to 10 ft lbs so it doesn't take much if you're using anything with a bit of leverage. I ended up just doing a good snug tightening with a normal wrench.
• This U341F transmission DOES have an actual filter and not a cleanable screen. If you're dropping the pan you'll want to replace it. Here are a couple pictures of it: Local stores carried it for around $20 and that included a gasket. But I didn't use the gasket because it was a different material than the OEM type. Seemed more like rubber than cork.
  

And that's about it! Overall it wasn't too bad and it's a good feeling to know you have fresh fluid in there. I used brakleen on the pan and seal edges of transmission.

[cptnsolo77]

I have done 2 drain & fills so far. Never replaced the filter. Trans is fine @ 131K. I have read on here that its not really necessary. Has the census changed?

[Vaggeto]

I think for most there is no filter. Just a screen that from what I've read everyone recommends you take off and clean. I posted my experience with the filter because I found out differently mid-work and it was only a $15 part.

[tgferg67]

In the trannies with just a screen, wouldn't it be better to do a backyard flush via the transmission lines instead of dropping the pan?

[Freezuch]

I'm about to do the drain and fill on the 2004 Vibe I just bought. It has 150000 km and the fluid on it looks dark and might have never been changed before. I have 8L of T-IV to do 2 fills (2nd one after driving for 500km). My question is if I should remove the pan, clean and change the filter during the first drain or do it during the 2nd one? Thanks!

[Vaggeto]

I'm about to do the drain and fill on the 2004 Vibe I just bought. It has 150000 km and the fluid on it looks dark and might have never been changed before. I have 8L of T-IV to do 2 fills (2nd one after driving for 500km). My question is if I should remove the pan, clean and change the filter during the first drain or do it during the 2nd one? Thanks!

Best to do this on the last one. Otherwise the filter will get dirty much quicker.

[Freezuch]

I'm about to do the drain and fill on the 2004 Vibe I just bought. It has 150000 km and the fluid on it looks dark and might have never been changed before. I have 8L of T-IV to do 2 fills (2nd one after driving for 500km). My question is if I should remove the pan, clean and change the filter during the first drain or do it during the 2nd one? Thanks!

Best to do this on the last one. Otherwise the filter will get dirty much quicker.

Thank you!

[Freezuch]

Is it critical if my oil level is a little above the mark? I drained 3 3/4 L from the tranny and put in exactly the same amount. It was showing in the upper Hot range yesterday. Checked the level today in the morning and the oil is above the HOT range in the cold tranny... Should I drain extra or it's going to be fine for the next 500km until the next drain?

[Vaggeto]

I personally noticed my shift smoother when I was correctly in the range. When I was slightly above, it wasn't as smooth.

The way you test can effect this though, are you letting it warm up bout 20 minutes (but not making it hot such as driving heavily around), and then running through all of the shifting options while stopped, and then leaving it in Neutral/park to check? (I may be slightly off so I advise looking it up to verify the right procedure)

Emptying a bit was pretty easy for me though, I just started to unscrew the drain and let a bit drip out and then retightened it.

[djkeev]

In the trannies with just a screen, wouldn't it be better to do a backyard flush via the transmission lines instead of dropping the pan?

There is good reason to drop the oil pan. When you remove the oil pan you can then "read" the health of the unit. Metal chunks on the magnet or a lot of "gold" dust in the bottom of the pan are clues to trouble on the horizon.

Don't just clean the pan without reading what the pan has to tell you.

Dave

[Mariachi]

i have replaced my filter twice already. looking to replace again soon.

[tgferg67]

There is good reason to drop the oil pan. When you remove the oil pan you can then "read" the health of the unit. Metal chunks on the magnet or a lot of "gold" dust in the bottom of the pan are clues to trouble on the horizon.

Don't just clean the pan without reading what the pan has to tell you.
Dave

I ended up not dropping the pan,even at 155k and did the DIY flush via the trans lines.
These transmissions are extremely durable and reliable, numerous posters with 300k and even a poster with 400k on the original tranny.
I see these used transmissions selling locally on the j/yard network car-part.com selling for $150 - this tells me they are not failing