But wait, there's more!
(Since it seems you can only upload 5 pics per post, I'll just use an imgur account)
First off, I remember that someone was selling some kind of vinyl to turn your yellow taillights red. Does that person still do that, or does anyone know where I can get a small amount of vinyl cling to do it myself?
I mentioned before that I was taking apart my hatch lock to clean it out. The bolt was rusted in but I was able to pry it out. Most annoying thing was having the different lock slides launch themselves across the room. I removed all the corrosion, used a lock lube, got the whole thing back together, polished the front of it, and put it back together. I had broke part of the tab that holds the c-clip on the back, so I drilled a small hole, used a screw and washers and blue threadlock, and put it back together. Works great now.
So I did the mod for the center console 12v constant on, but did it my own way. I used wire suitcases to run 16g wire to a switch I mounted in the glove compartment because I didn't want the 12v jack to possibly drain the battery. So now the jack operates normally with the key on, or with the switch on and the key off.
Speaking of the central console, decided to replace all the hinges. Found out that there's a cheaper option for the hinge for the entire armrest. Usually the hinge costs $30 on ebay. Not bad, but if you get the hinge for the Celica 94-99 / Scion TC 05-10, Toyota part number 58907-12050, it's only $10-11 and fits our armrests with NO modification.
(The Vibe one is on the left, the TC one is on the right, but trust me, they fit without modification).
Also, the holes that the smaller hinges went into had cracked so used some tin can strips and tiny screws to better secure them.
Also changed my trans fluid early this spring. Drain plug made it easy.
One day this summer when heading to work my car refused to start. Didn't crank or anything. Figured out quickly it was the starter. Luckily I was at home, rode my bike to the parts store and picked up a new starter. Was a pain to get the starter out, had to remove the filter and oil pressure connector to get it out. I found that removing the bracket under the throttle helps to make it easier to get at the top bolt for the starter.
Over the winter a hole formed in the fender liners and caused ice and snow to destroy the washer pump. Found a new pump, as well as undamaged liners for both sides in a local junkyard. I found that the reason we get holes in the front of the wheel liners is that there's a plastic fastener right behind the headlights, one that goes vertically up into the body, that prevents the liners from hitting the tires, and mine were missing.
I've replaced both and there are now no problems. If they fall out I might replace them with bolts.
Last story. This spring was terrible for potholes. While on a ramp going onto the highway I hit potholes that spanned across the entire ramp. Loud bang. Passed a dozen or more cars disabled on the road after it. Later found out it had destroyed both front struts and wheel bearings. Amazingly, I was able to get the state to reimburse me for damages, which almost never happens. There's a local repair shop that allows you to rent a bay with a lift to work on your own car, and they had a shop press, so I decided to do my own bearings. I knew how to do them but had never done them before. It went smoothly except for the snap rings that were rusted in and hard to get out. Covered the ring with penetrant, then I wedged a small screwdriver behind one end and wiggled until it popped out, then moved around the snap ring lifting the rest of it out. Also rented some bearing adaptors from autozone to help me.
If you need a bearing just get the AC Delco one from Amazon, it's the OEM one. And a new snap ring is $3 from the dealer around here. $10 for a new spindle nut.
I used an impact socket to press the hub out, didn't take a picture of that.
Here I'm pressing the bearing itself out, using an adapter to press the bearing into the tube under the knuckle.
Cleaned out the inside of the knuckle with a wire wheel.
Pressing the new bearing into the knuckle with the old bearing as a guide and adapter.
Pushing the hub into the bearing. When doing this, Do Not support the hub on the studs or you will push them out, support it by the solid metal.
Snap ring in and knuckle ready for installing. I found that a pair of 12" long needle-nose pliers worked better with those snap rings than ring pliers that were not big or wide enough.
New monroe struts.
These were on the springs. Seriously, if you don't know which end of a strut is up, maybe you shouldn't replace them!
Enough flooding the thread with images for now.
I'm painting interior panels, updating the sound system when I have money, doing some leds for the front lights, going to flush the power steering soon. Will show pictures of those as I finish them. Also, I think I'm going to use my own garage thread not just to post regular maintenance, but to post all the mods I do and how I did them.