Quote, originally posted by CMcGowan »Nice Job. Got any part numbers on the parts used? Looks like Rat Shack parts.Thanks, Yes they are RS parts.Here are step-by-step instructions:1) Remove the Head Unit. See this link for a how to remove the radio;
http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=8510 2) Open the top of the unit, unscrew one small screw in back and pry open.3) Locate the flat 15 pin white flat connector.4) Cut the fist wire on the left (pin 1 black wire)5) Cut the third wire from the left (pin 3 white wire)6) Strip all four of the ends about 1/4 of an inch.7) Strip the ends of two audio cables8) Solder the outside ground wires together and solder them to the chassis.9) Solder one audio cable to the ends connecting to the CD board, red to black and white to white (the wires going to the white connector on top)10) Solder the other audio cable to the lower board, red to black and white to white (the wires going down into the unit)11) Tie knots in the audio cables to keep the wire from being disconnected if they are pulled and feed it out the back of the unit.12) Attach the relay to the back of the unit. I sanded both surfaces and used foam double face tape. Epoxy glue could also be used. I used a relay similar to the one below because I had it lying around;10-Amp Plug-in Relay-12VDC $8.39Brand: RadioShackCatalog #: 275-218Model: 275-218However, if I were to it again I would buy the mini relay below, because it could fit inside the head unit, instead on mounting it externally as I did.; Mini 5A DPDT Relay $5.29 Brand: RadioShack Catalog #: 275-249 Model: 275-249 12a) Alternatively, instead of the relay both audio wires could be cut longer and connect to a double pole switch like this one:DPDT Mini Toggle Switch $4.99RadioShackCatalog #: 275-66313) Connect the relay as shown in the wiring diagram.14) Run the Aux audio cable and the power cable through the back of the head unit with a knot to keep it from being pulled loose and then down to bottom of the center console or wherever you need it.15) Run the power wire to a switch. The one I used was;SPDT Flatted Metal Level toggle Switch $3.49 RadioShackCatalog #: 275-63516) I mounted this switch to a blank plate by the coin holder.17) Connect the other terminal of the switch to a +12v supply, I used a red wire from the OBD2 PORT. For good measure I used a 1 amp in line fues like this one; Inline Fuse Holder $2.29 Radio Shack Cat # 270-1238;Replace everything and you are done. Also, tape or heat shrink all connections. The total cost for everything is around $15. Notes: I am very pleased with the way this project turned out. I was concerned that adding the relay and/or having it outside the radio enclosure would introduce engine noise. Which is why I used shielded audio cable for the entire audio path, and soldered all of the grounds to a single point. The result is that there is absolutely zero engine noise. Switching from my iPod to the 6 CD changer is as easy as flipping the switch, however, I lower the volume when switching to avoid a spike sound when the relay engages. The overall project is not that difficult although it may seem that way. I have poor soldering skills and had no problems. The hardest part was finding the correct audio path and actually trying it to see if any unexpected problems would arise.Please let me know if anyone else tries this or if anyone has a question.