Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done!

Stereo, security systems, vehicle electronics, and electrical-related discussions
Namron
Posts: 47
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2005 4:02 am

"Empty CD"

Post by Namron »

I was wondering... Instead on adding a relay or a switch. Why not create an "Empty CD", since one has to be spinning anyway and then just "tap"/solder directly into the left and right channel as indicated. This would possibly allow fewer changes to the Radio.I've tried burning an "empty CD" wav file 75 mins long but so far it is not "empty" enough. I'm still getting hiss at low volumes. Any ideas how to create an "empty" wav file? I was using Sound Recorder and Nero File Editor.Does this idea seem like it should warrent more expermenting?Namron
2003 Platinum GT Vibe, M&TCurrent Mods: Hardwire Aux Input. Window VentsWindow Tint 35%driver/passenger, 20% back & 5" strip windshieldGoodYear TripleTred TiresFuture Mods: Trailer Hitch
binary
Posts: 1097
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2005 5:37 am

Re: Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done! (mojo_jojo)

Post by binary »

I'm getting dead images, the only one I really wanted to see was:http://www.abacobay.net/Vibe/WIRING%20DIAG.jpgI'm comfortable pulling out my head unit and splicing wires - I just don't have any experience wiring relays... And I have to agree with everyone - FM Modulation sucks.
Namron
Posts: 47
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2005 4:02 am

Re: Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done! (binary)

Post by Namron »

binary,I rewired my '03 Single CD just this past weekend with a Relay. Other than the tight confined space it was pretty simple.From picture I found referenced here to the Matrix web site I cut the left and right channel audio lines going from the CD player to the internal radio AMP. You need a DPDT relay, it will have 8 connections. Two connections are for the coil. One coil side goes to ground the other goes to 12V via a switch.The other 6 connections should be viewed in two Sets of three one for the Left Channel and the other for the Right. Each Set has a Common, Normally Open and Normally Closed.The cut wires going to the Internal AMP should got to each of the Common connections. I wanted to use my AUX as the Main input so I connected the Left and Right AUX to the Normally Closed. The side of the cut wires, Left and Right from the CD Player went to the Normally Open.With no power passing through the coil, the Mechanical Switch does not move, hence Normally Closed. When power passes through the switch and then the coil the Mechanical Switch moves and connection is made to the Normally Open side.BTW, the Ground from the AUX input was tided the Radio case.Hope this helps...Namron
2003 Platinum GT Vibe, M&TCurrent Mods: Hardwire Aux Input. Window VentsWindow Tint 35%driver/passenger, 20% back & 5" strip windshieldGoodYear TripleTred TiresFuture Mods: Trailer Hitch
binary
Posts: 1097
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2005 5:37 am

Re: Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done! (Namron)

Post by binary »

Thanks - that helps a lot!Oh and just drop a data cd in your vibe's cd player - it won't play anything - not even hiss.YMMV - but the cds I have laying about are mostly MP3 compilations - so I've done it a few times... :
murph
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2005 11:46 am

Re: (scott_h)

Post by murph »

I recently added an AUX input connection to my 2005 Vibe (standard radio/CD unit). I used a PAC ( http://www.pac-audio.com/ ) adapter unit. PAC also makes an Ipod adapter. You may also want to check out another adapter called Ipod2Car made by Peripheral ( http://peripheralelectronics.com/2002/home.asp ).I wired PAC adapter to the stock stereo unit and drilled a small hole under the plastic trim under the radio to mount a 3.5mm stereo female jack. I am then able to contect my MP3 player to this jack and use the AUX switch on the stock stereo to switch from the CD or radio to the MP3 player. It works great and sounds great. I also like the stock look.The down side is the adapter and cables cost about $100.
Namron
Posts: 47
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2005 4:02 am

Re: Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done! (binary)

Post by Namron »

binary,I did end up getting an "Empty" cd created and use it. But your right any cd would work.Additionaly, if you go the DIY route, I epoxied the switch to the left outside of the radio case. I don't imagine using the cd player much now and lifting the access cover to the radio is too easy to do. Namron
2003 Platinum GT Vibe, M&TCurrent Mods: Hardwire Aux Input. Window VentsWindow Tint 35%driver/passenger, 20% back & 5" strip windshieldGoodYear TripleTred TiresFuture Mods: Trailer Hitch
binary
Posts: 1097
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2005 5:37 am

Post by binary »

My 2005 single disc is different than the photos - obviously not a 6 disc indash.I have located a connector with identical connections on the bottom of the unit. I'm going to be disassembeling the head unit enough that I can easily get at the wires - I want to be able to reverse this if it doesn't work. I'll let you know what happens.--Update--Didn't go well. The relay worked, because while not energized - the CD player still worked. But when activated - the cd continued to play for a few seconds then the CD was ejected with a "check disc" error. No change in audio.I think the wiring has changed - so I'll need to probe for the correct wires. So for now - '05 single CD players won't work with these instructions until I can get the correct wires.
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Post by the_nite_owl »

A thought to simplify the external wiring.You should be able to lose the external switch by using a stereo plug that has a ground trigger.Many devices that have internal speakers have a cutout switch so that when you plug in your headphones you are shutting off the internal speakers.This same jack can be used as a ground trigger for the relay stored in the dash or inside the stereo. This way, the act of plugging in your external device is the trigger that switches the relay to use the external signal.Sure, you have to unplug the external device to switch sources but you also do not have to mount a switch in your car to handle the function.Just a thought. It is probalby the route I will go unless I find a better pre-built alternative for the 6 disc in-dash in my 05 Vibe.
binary
Posts: 1097
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2005 5:37 am

Post by binary »

Great idea with that - that's a good way to make it work without the extra bits and switches.I just ordered a GM12-AUXv2 adapter for my Vibe. I should have it within the week and installed seconds later I'm done mussing around inside my head unit... I got other mods to work on! ---update----It arrived at 5:45pm and was installed and working 1.5 hours later. (I was at work for 45 of those minutes!
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: (binary) Aux In wiring

Post by the_nite_owl »

I thought about this a bit. I was originally going to use a relay to switch between the internal and external audio and use the mini phone jack to trigger the ground for the relay so when you plugged in it switched the relay to the external input.Sounded good but then I realized I could bypass the relay alltogether.Using a 1/8th inch mini phone jack that has 3 conductors and two of them are normally closed contacts I can do the following.Clip the left/right channel wires in the HU going from the CD changer to the amp, run the live side of those wires out to my own jack and back again. The normally closed contacts in the jack will keep the CD audio playing until a 1/8th connector is plugged in at which point it grabs the left/right signals coming from the external connector and feeds them into the stereo cutting off the internal signal.I just have to find some good shielded cable to run a line out to the connector and one back in again. Will not have to tap a 12 volt line for the relay or find a place to mount it.If I do not destroy the radio it should work. Hopefully I will get to try it out sometime this week. Radioshack only had two conductor wire and I wanted to use the shielding as a drain and have a seperate ground wire but they do not have the cable.
Namron
Posts: 47
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2005 4:02 am

Re: (binary) Aux In wiring (the_nite_owl)

Post by Namron »

The main reason to to use the switch/relay is allow a way to select back to the built in CD player. By only using the jack you will "lose" that ability.Namron
2003 Platinum GT Vibe, M&TCurrent Mods: Hardwire Aux Input. Window VentsWindow Tint 35%driver/passenger, 20% back & 5" strip windshieldGoodYear TripleTred TiresFuture Mods: Trailer Hitch
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: (Namron)

Post by the_nite_owl »

It will switch back by unplugging the external source but will not require the relay, extra wiring or 12v source. It makes the entire setup mechanical rather than electrical so there is less chance of failure.The trade off is that you have to unplug the external source for it to switch back to internal. Really though, how often are you likely to swap back and forth? I personally will hardly ever use the CD player and my portable device comes out of the car with me every time (it's my Treo 600 phone) so plugging in/out is not an issue.About the only time I will not be using my external input is when I put on the radio and that should not be affected by this at all.Of course, I am one to LOVE having extra capabilities and being able to toggle between devices at will would be nice even if I would rarely use it but that means finding a place to wire in a switch. I avoid cutting into original panels as much as possible and unless you make yourself a cool custom panel of switches they always look tacky and unprofessional. So until I come up with enough mods to make a bank of switches worthwhile I will take the easy/clean route. Once I am ready to go switched then I can add the relay in at the switch panel without having to pull the HU. It will make repairs and further mods easier.When I AM ready, I will make a switch panel in the cubby under the shifter and have my aux in there as well.Problem is, I have too many projects at any one time.Quote, originally posted by Namron »The main reason to to use the switch/relay is allow a way to select back to the built in CD player. By only using the jack you will "lose" that ability.Namron
northvibe
Posts: 7641
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 2:25 pm

Post by northvibe »

the_nite_owl,Hey good idea, let us know if it works out for ya! it would be a good way for some of us like me that just use a ipod and if its not in my car i just use the cd player, so i wont forget about the switc....as i used to do with fog lights...
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: (northvibe)

Post by the_nite_owl »

You can get creative with fog lights and use a lighted switch.I always prefered a pushbutton to a toggle if it is going to be exposed.You can provide 12v to the light in the switch and have the lights ground switched when pressing the button to the ON position. This way you have a light to indicate when the fogs are on.Hopefully by this weekend I will do the mods to my stereo and will post the results. I have to locate some suitable cable first. All Radio Shack has is two wire with a shield. As someone else in this thread has stated, you are better off connecting the shield to ground only on the HU side, not on the connector side. This acts as a drain for RF noise to feed to ground instead of feeding into your system. But since the RS cable only has two wires you have to use the shield as your common ground for the left/right channels and you lose the ability to use it as a drain.Hopefully I can locate some shield multi-conductor cable so I can have the output and input lines all in the same jacketed cable for neatness and it will simply shielding and grounding.Quote, originally posted by northvibe »the_nite_owl,Hey good idea, let us know if it works out for ya! it would be a good way for some of us like me that just use a ipod and if its not in my car i just use the cd player, so i wont forget about the switc....as i used to do with fog lights...
Namron
Posts: 47
Joined: Fri Apr 22, 2005 4:02 am

Re: (the_nite_owl)

Post by Namron »

Hey the_nite_owlYour right with a jack that has enough connections it should work.Aa far as where to place the switch... I put mine on the side of the radio behind the trim. Then once a year when I want to use the cd player it just tilt the trim up and flip the switch.Namron
2003 Platinum GT Vibe, M&TCurrent Mods: Hardwire Aux Input. Window VentsWindow Tint 35%driver/passenger, 20% back & 5" strip windshieldGoodYear TripleTred TiresFuture Mods: Trailer Hitch
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: (Namron)

Post by the_nite_owl »

I am thinking of cutting a panel to fit inside the tray under the shifter.That tray is kind of narrow to reach deeply into to grab things but fitting the panel up higher in it gives me plenty of room for switches and enough coiled wire below it so the panel can be pulled out and worked on.Radio Shack has a 5 pin 1/8 (2.5mm) stereo jack with normally closed circuits. 274-0246.The audio from the stereo would feed to pins 3 and 4 and the output TO the stereo would attach to pins 2 and 5 (left/right).These pinouts SHOULD be correct, will have to verify once I pick up the switch.Pins 3 & 2 and pins 4 & 5 are normally connected so the output from the stereo feeds straight through and back to the stereo again.If you plug in a 1/8 stereo jack it disconnects the 3/2 & 4/5 connections and instead feeds the left/right from the external plug through pins 2 and 5 effectively replacing the CD players internal audio channels with those externally applied. No toggle switches or relays needed.Once I get it working I will try to put together a set of instructions similar to what Vibration did with his mods. I have the 2005 internal 6-disc changer so the wiring may be different than others have found so far.Quote, originally posted by Namron »Hey the_nite_owlYour right with a jack that has enough connections it should work.Aa far as where to place the switch... I put mine on the side of the radio behind the trim. Then once a year when I want to use the cd player it just tilt the trim up and flip the switch.Namron
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: (binary) Aux In wiring

Post by the_nite_owl »

I thought about this a bit. I was originally going to use a relay to switch between the internal and external audio and use the mini phone jack to trigger the ground for the relay so when you plugged in it switched the relay to the external input.Sounded good but then I realized I could bypass the relay alltogether.Using a 1/8th inch mini phone jack that has 3 conductors and two of them are normally closed contacts I can do the following.Clip the left/right channel wires in the HU going from the CD changer to the amp, run the live side of those wires out to my own jack and back again. The normally closed contacts in the jack will keep the CD audio playing until a 1/8th connector is plugged in at which point it grabs the left/right signals coming from the external connector and feeds them into the stereo cutting off the internal signal.I just have to find some good shielded cable to run a line out to the connector and one back in again. Will not have to tap a 12 volt line for the relay or find a place to mount it.If I do not destroy the radio it should work. Hopefully I will get to try it out sometime this week. Radioshack only had two conductor wire and I wanted to use the shielding as a drain and have a seperate ground wire but they do not have the cable.
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Aux In wiring 2005 6-Disc in-dash CD

Post by the_nite_owl »

OK, I put my idea to the test.Using the information that vibration provided at the beginning of this thread I pulled my HU and found that my 05 used the same wires as his (not sure if he mentioned his model year or not).Pin 1 is the left channel. Pin 3 is the right channel. After clipping the wires the connector side of the clipped wire is the output from the CD player. The other side feeds into the amplifier.I drilled a hole in the back of the HU on the corner in the middle right of the HU when looking at it from the back. This gives room to feed in the cable. If you try and go in at the bottom of the case there is not much room to run the cable in and there is not much room near the top of the case without interfering with the lid.I made the hole big enough to fit a rubber grommet into then fed my cable through the whole with enough length to reach the contacts and then used a large zip tie on the cable inside the HU to keep it from pulling out the back if it got tugged. Alternatively you can tie a knot in the cable but the cable I used was too thick to tie a knot in so the zip tie was a good alternative.Rather than using a relay I simplified the setup using a Radio Shack 1/8th inch phono jack #274-0246 ($2.99). This jack has three conductors and 5 pins. It has two normally closed circuits so you can feed in two signals on the back of the jack (not into the plug) and they will by default feed back out of their corresponding output pins.When you plug in a 1/8th male connector it opens the connections between the wired input/outputs and replaces the signal to the output wires with the ones coming from the external plug.I may not be explaining it well but if you look at the switch and watch what it does it will make sense.Here is how it is wired.HU Side Phono JackConnector side of Pin 1 Pin 3Other side of Pin 1 Pin 2Conn side of Pin 3 Pin 4Other side of Pin 3 Pin 5Ground Pin 1I used a shielded cable. I left the shield unconnected at the phono jack side and tied it to the same ground on the HU side. This acts as a drain for RF noise picked up along the cable. It should not be connected to ground on the phono jack side or it can be a source of introducing noise or causing a ground loop problem with the external device.I could not find good cable to use at Radio Shack. They only had two conductor with a shield. At minimum I needed three wires with a separate shield. Two wires are needed to feed the signal out of the HU to the jack, two wires are needed to feed signal BACK to the HU and a ground from the jack to the HU is needed.My neighbor who does repairs and support for many of the local radio stations told me that the signals would be "unmatched" and so I would be better off using two separate shielded cables, one coming out, one going back in.Unfortunately I could not come up with a good 3 conductor shielded cable so I had to scavenge an old parallel printer cable and go the single cable route rather than two separate ones. The cable was not too thick but it had 19 conductors. I trimmed away all but the 5 I wanted to use and the shield and it worked out pretty well.Now, when I turn on the CD player I by default get audio from the CD.As soon as I plug in my external source it cuts the CD audio and feeds in the external. My MP3 player does not seem to provide quite as much volume as the CD player did but it is not off by much. I do have to remember to turn the volume down a bit before unplugging if I had been running kind of loud on the external though. The one minor issue I have is that when I plug in my external device but do not turn it on, I get a very low volume sound from the CD player feeding through. I believe this is my MP3 player letting audio bleed back through it and out back out again. But the stereo has to be turned up higher than normal just to hear a low volume from the CD player. Other portables may be better isolated than mine.The whole project cost me the $2.99 for the phono jack, a bit of heat shrink tubing and a rubber grommet I had around the house, 1 zip tie and a couple hours of time to complete the job carefully.At the moment though I do not have the phono jack mounted anywhere so I have to begin that project soon. I plan on attempting to make a flat panel a couple of inches recessed into the storage bin below the shifter so that it will close up hidden when not in use and give me room for other connectors/switches in the future.Big kudos to vibration for posting the idea of tapping the wires coming out of the CD changer and the wire locations. Knowing where the wires were saved me a lot of time testing to find them myself.
mikasa999
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 11:27 am

Re: Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done! (Vibration)

Post by mikasa999 »

Hi All, Thanks everyone that have posted about this topic, especially Vibration for his pic and providing the left and right channel wires. That's saved alot of time. My setup was the alternative that vibrationhas mentioned. i used a single DPDT switch instead of the relay and the SPDT toggle switch. I placed my switch on the right side of the 3rd button and ran the aux jack out from inside the hu cover onto the right under the hu cover (there was just enough room to squeeze the cover in and snap into place, hopefully the wire does not get damaged from this). Only draw back from this setup is when you toggle between the cd and the aux jack, u will hear a sec of flickering noise on the speakers, so have to make sure the volume is turned down. All in all everything works fine and very happy about this mini project. Two major problems I ran into: 1) make sure your wires are thick enough/shield so it doesn't pick up any noise. (I used some small wire at first and had alot of interference). 2) make sure you know which set of wire u cut get feed into the amplifier and which set is coming out from the cd. (I mistakenly switch the two and it took me a while to figure i had the wrong wires solder to the wrong place on the swtich - that's what u get for being a newbie) Good luck to u all that will take this project on.
05VibeWagon
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat Aug 06, 2005 3:21 am

Re: (murph)

Post by 05VibeWagon »

Hey, how come you didnt get any replies? Didnt you solve a lot of hassle for everyone who has an 05 single CD deck? Did the cable actually work? Are you able to switch between CD and aux with the button on the original deck? Which exact cable did you use (all you gave was a link to the home page of the website). When i checked it out i wasnt sure which one AAI-GM12 or AB GM12, or maybe a different one altogether? Do you have any pictures of your setup?
migital
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 1:37 am

Re: Aux In wiring 2005 6-Disc in-dash CD (the_nite_owl)

Post by migital »

i just bought my 2004 vibe on friday, and i would like to try the_nite_owl's version of the ipod hard wire, but after reading all of the topics about this mod, i'm a little confused.will the_nite_owl's mod work with the single disc head unit? to simplify it a bit, does the single disc have the same 15 pin connector as the 6 disc? if so, there shouldn't be anything different with the pins, correct?my plan, if i'm able to do his mod, will be to use the proclip ipod mount for the vibe (found here), and mount the phono jack next to the passenger seatbelt window. i'm also planning on painting the threaded section and the retaining nut a flat black when i'm done mounting so it blends in a bit better with the other components.
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: Aux In wiring 2005 6-Disc in-dash CD (migital)

Post by the_nite_owl »

I do not know the pinout on the single CD HU but the theory remains the same.It is a matter of testing the wires one by one until you get audio.I tested by hooking up a test lead to the ground for my headphones and ground at the HU and a lead from the tip of the headphone plug to a small nail (needle or something small and pointed) to use as a probe at the connector in the HU.I then tested each lead until I got signal. I then adjusted the Left/Right balance all the way to one side to see which side it was that I had picked up. Then I went on to test the rest.The most noticeable thing is not that you get audio coming through your headphone, but that you get a sudden drop in audio from the HU because you are bleeding off the signal before it hits the amplifier so very little gets through the amp to the speakers.Of course, you run the risk of potentially grounding out a voltage if one of the wires carries it and could damage the radio. I do not know how great a risk it is really. You could always use a volt meter to test for voltages at the connector first so you know which wires to avoid when testing with your headphones. Pinouts for the connector would be greatly helpful.If you go the route with the phono jack that I did, remember that you will always get that loud pop when you first plug in and you should either switch to radio mode first then plug in or turn the volume way down.This same problem is likely to occur with a relay setup also but probably not as bad since the relay switches faster and cleaner than manually plugging in.Quote, originally posted by migital »i just bought my 2004 vibe on friday, and i would like to try the_nite_owl's version of the ipod hard wire, but after reading all of the topics about this mod, i'm a little confused.will the_nite_owl's mod work with the single disc head unit? to simplify it a bit, does the single disc have the same 15 pin connector as the 6 disc? if so, there shouldn't be anything different with the pins, correct?my plan, if i'm able to do his mod, will be to use the proclip ipod mount for the vibe (found here), and mount the phono jack next to the passenger seatbelt window. i'm also planning on painting the threaded section and the retaining nut a flat black when i'm done mounting so it blends in a bit better with the other components.
migital
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 1:37 am

Re: Aux In wiring 2005 6-Disc in-dash CD (the_nite_owl)

Post by migital »

tell me if i'm thinking of this the wrong way. the 15 pin connector that i'm going to be testing is where all the wires hanging off the back of HU hook in, right? wouldn't that then be audio out, therefore, after the amp? I haven't had the chance to tear things apart yet to take a look, but based on the pictures i saw, that's the idea that i'm getting.
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: Aux In wiring 2005 6-Disc in-dash CD (migital)

Post by the_nite_owl »

No, you need to open the unit and tap into the wires inside.If you look at the first post in this thread Vibration included a couple of photos. The connector in our 6-cd units is on top towards the front left side. The single CD unit may not be the same or may have fewer wires, etc.It is also possible that the amplifier is integrated with the CD unit and not fed the signal across wires like ours are making it a bit more difficult to track them down. The only way to know is to open up the unit and see what you have to work with.Quote, originally posted by migital »tell me if i'm thinking of this the wrong way. the 15 pin connector that i'm going to be testing is where all the wires hanging off the back of HU hook in, right? wouldn't that then be audio out, therefore, after the amp? I haven't had the chance to tear things apart yet to take a look, but based on the pictures i saw, that's the idea that i'm getting.
Allen1371
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 8:28 am

Re: Aux In wiring 2005 6-Disc in-dash CD (the_nite_owl)

Post by Allen1371 »

I just put my 6 disc changer back onto my 2003 Vibe (Moons & Tunes). I used the #274-0246 jack and the wire splices vibration discovered starting this whole thread. I used an old apple printer cable between the plug and the CD unit (5 wires). Thanks for all the leg work it works perfect!
Whalensdad
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 9:00 pm

Re: Aux In wiring 2004 Single in-dash CD

Post by Whalensdad »

I did this mod to my 2004 M&T Single CD. There are two connectors that go to the CD. I found that the switch/relay gets spliced into wires 1 and 3 of the 6 pin connector vice the 15 pin connector, like was shown in this thread. Also if you use the line out from your iPod, you don't have to crank the volume the deck.
migital
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 1:37 am

Re: Aux In wiring 2004 Single in-dash CD (Whalensdad)

Post by migital »

did you take any pictures of this? This is what i've been asking about, and it seems no one who owns an ipod buys their vibe with the single cd
Whalensdad
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 9:00 pm

Re: Aux In wiring 2004 Single in-dash CD (migital)

Post by Whalensdad »

No I didn't but you can use the pictures that were provided earlier. When you open up the bottom of the unit, you'll see the 15 pin connector and directly to the right of it is a six pin connector. The wires you want to splice into are wires 1 (black) and wire 3(2 wires from the black). If you follow the instructions given for the 6 cd mod, just substituting which jack you use, you'll be fine. The only change I made, was that I actually removed the cd unit from the radio to give me better access to the wires for splicing. Once I did my connections, and used an ample amount of heat shrink tubing, I replaced the CD unit. There were 6 hex bolts (very small that secure the unit. 2 are on the back of the radio, 2 are on the side, and the last 2 are located under the front plastic. Just pry the tabs up that hold the plastic on, and you will have access to the nuts. You might find that the wiring jacks for the radio controls will loosen when you remove the plastic, just push them in securly before you close up the radio. If you have any questions, just ask.Lee
migital
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 1:37 am

Re: Aux In wiring 2004 Single in-dash CD (Whalensdad)

Post by migital »

thanks a lot! i should have time to get all of this done sometime this week, and when i do so, i'll try and take some good pictures of the process
floobynoobydude
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 7:09 am

Re: Aux In wiring 2004 Single in-dash CD

Post by floobynoobydude »

Hi all, So I decided to attempt this project on my 2003 M&T single-disc, but before I finally got the right wires (Thanks to some clutch help from Namron) I cut into wires 1 and 3 from the 14-pin connector, which I assumed was the single-disc version of the 15-pin connector described in the original post on this thread. I was wrong, as I now see was in some later posts that I missed.If anyone's curious, Wires 1 and 3 on the 14-pin harness do volume control and light up part of the display (not sure which is which). I, unfortunately, now have a display that reads gibberish and no volume control. C'est la vie. Suggestions? I soldered the two connections that I cut back together, but it didn't solve the problem. I am a total amateur with a solder gun, so I could try just redoing those 2 connections to make them more nice and clean, but my other thought was that I might need to just replace those 2 lengths of wire, or maybe that I need to do some sort of reset to get the head unit to recognize that it is once again correctly wired. Thanks for any help.Cheers, Bert
cbetts
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 7:26 am

Re: Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done! (Vibration)

Post by cbetts »

Being extremely frustrated with the 6-Disc Changer M&T package not being able to use the AUX input, I finally bit the bullet and put in an FM modulator. I also found a really nice looking dock form Dension. The details of my installation are here: http://kharam.no-ip.info/ipod-vibe/
Take that, Honda Boy!
johnsoax
Posts: 398
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2003 5:10 am

Post by johnsoax »

I picked up the closed circuit 1/8" jack that was suggested, and once I find some shielded wire, I will be attempting this on my 03 six-disc changer. I will have pictures.
Stereo Mod - Cargo carpet - Phone on ash tray. - Hidden HitchProjects: Fix CELMileage - 50050 - 31.41 MPG Ave
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
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Re: Aux In wiring 2004 Single in-dash CD (floobynoobydude)

Post by the_nite_owl »

Any chance you reveresed those wires when you hooked them back up?That would explain the continued malfunction.It is possible the unit was damaged having the wrong signals feeding in where they should not but it could just be reversed wires.A tip for soldering wires. Apply a small amount of solder to each end of the wires you are splicing together then put those two ends together and heat them so that the solder on each wire flows together making the connection. You should be able to get them together much more quickly without applying too much heat and get a more solid connection. Applying solder to the bared end of the wire first is called tinning. The solder should flow into and around the bared strands of the wire and makes for a surface much more amenable to soldering to.You should also make certain the bared ends of the wire remain twisted together and do not separate. Do not over twist them, just twist enough so they are all neatly together as they are inside the jacket surrounding the wire. It is important to get the heat on and off the wire as quickly as you can and still get good solder flow. The heat can/will begin flowing up the length of the wire and melt the insulation.Properly flowed solder will have a shiny appearance. Overheated solder will be dull looking and is known as a cold joint. A cold solder joint does not conduct well and can be a brittle, easily broken connection. You can correct a cold joint with a quick reheat of the joint allowing the solder to re-flow.And lastly, you do not melt the solder and apply it to the wire, you heat the wire and apply the solder. You should wipe the tip of your soldering iron on a damp sponge to wipe off any built up contaminants on the tip then hold the tip against the wire and then apply the solder into the gap between wire and iron. If the wire is heated properly the solder will flow right around and through it.If you apply a blob of solder to the iron tip and then apply it to the wire, the solder may very well stick to the outside edge of the strands but never properly flow into the strands and make a good connection leaving this large blob of solder only sticking to a very small amount of the wire surface. That will leave you with a poor and fragile connection.Quote, originally posted by floobynoobydude »Hi all, So I decided to attempt this project on my 2003 M&T single-disc, but before I finally got the right wires (Thanks to some clutch help from Namron) I cut into wires 1 and 3 from the 14-pin connector, which I assumed was the single-disc version of the 15-pin connector described in the original post on this thread. I was wrong, as I now see was in some later posts that I missed.If anyone's curious, Wires 1 and 3 on the 14-pin harness do volume control and light up part of the display (not sure which is which). I, unfortunately, now have a display that reads gibberish and no volume control. C'est la vie. Suggestions? I soldered the two connections that I cut back together, but it didn't solve the problem. I am a total amateur with a solder gun, so I could try just redoing those 2 connections to make them more nice and clean, but my other thought was that I might need to just replace those 2 lengths of wire, or maybe that I need to do some sort of reset to get the head unit to recognize that it is once again correctly wired. Thanks for any help.Cheers, Bert
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
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Re: (johnsoax)

Post by the_nite_owl »

I used an old printer cable I had lying around.It had more wires than I needed but it was well shielded.And old modem cable may work as well, providing it has shielding.Some mice cables have shielding but many do not.Quote, originally posted by johnsoax »I picked up the closed circuit 1/8" jack that was suggested, and once I find some shielded wire, I will be attempting this on my 03 six-disc changer. I will have pictures.
johnsoax
Posts: 398
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2003 5:10 am

Re: (the_nite_owl)

Post by johnsoax »

OOOO, an old Modem cable would be great.Found one in the basement ThanksGot the ends of the cable ready and the top of the radio open. Will post pictures.
Stereo Mod - Cargo carpet - Phone on ash tray. - Hidden HitchProjects: Fix CELMileage - 50050 - 31.41 MPG Ave
johnsoax
Posts: 398
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2003 5:10 am

Re: (johnsoax)

Post by johnsoax »

You didn't need to probe with headphones. If you look at the circuit board at the large blobs of solder, those are the test points . They are all labled. Pin 1 is LCHA (Left Channel Audio), Pin 2 is AGND (Audio Ground), and Pin 3 is RCHA (Right Channel Audio). I think I will tie into Audio Ground as well. It is regular ground, but isolated by a resistor.
Stereo Mod - Cargo carpet - Phone on ash tray. - Hidden HitchProjects: Fix CELMileage - 50050 - 31.41 MPG Ave
johnsoax
Posts: 398
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2003 5:10 am

Re: (johnsoax)

Post by johnsoax »

Here are the parts that I gathered

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johnsoax
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Re: (johnsoax)

Post by johnsoax »

Here is the cable with the ends cut off and the shield exposed

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johnsoax
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Re: (johnsoax)

Post by johnsoax »

I soldered directly to the test points on the board for the output of the CD audio (and the audio common) to my mechanical switch plug (Radio Shack 274-246). I then came back with the left and right audio to the cut side of pins 1 and 3. I soldered my shield braid and cable to the piece of the case that is holding down the circuit board (center of picture)Here is a picture of it all soldered in.

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johnsoax
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Re: (johnsoax)

Post by johnsoax »

Here is the cable routing as it leaves the radio. You can see that it is a straight shot.(NOTE - I drilled the hole too high, I ended up with the cable wedged pretty tight against a bundle of wires behind the radio)

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johnsoax
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Re: (johnsoax)

Post by johnsoax »

I routed the cable down the left side of dash and out near the feet of the passenger side. I then pulled the carpet loose, and pulled out the middle console. A long time ago I had swapped the "change holder" in the middle console for one of the blanks next to the rear glass button. So I pulled that blank out and ran the cable through that hole when I put the middle console back in.(This is actually the second try, luckily the first time I tested it before installing it. I didn't have the right audio from the CD for some reason. The Jack worked fine, but the CD didn't work. I pulled the cover back off and resoldered the CD Right output and then retested, then everything worked great )

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johnsoax
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Re: (johnsoax)

Post by johnsoax »

Here is a shot of the plug mounted in the blank from far away.

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johnsoax
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Re: (johnsoax)

Post by johnsoax »

Here is a closeup shot of the plug installed in the blank (yes I do need to clean my middle console ). I hope that I don't need to pull the radio for any reason, as it will be a pain in the (removed) to pull all of that out again.I did think about adding a plug at the back of the radio, but thought it would take too long. I havn't pulled my other radio out in about six months, and that was when I bought it.(Can you tell I am trying to avoid doing This )

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vibe-04
Posts: 376
Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2004 9:39 am

Signal Line Noise

Post by vibe-04 »

Great posts: I've hooked up my 2004 single disk using the 1/8" connector but I have a noise/signalling problem. Playing a CD as normal is fine but I faintly hear the CD when I plug in the 1/8" iPod connector (using my laptop to test, can't decide between 2 or 4 GB iPod Nano). I used a Belkin serial cable and I thinking I have a frequency induced current crossover where the left and right channels from the CD player is bleediing onto the return lines to the head unit. The wires were very thin.Is my assumption that the thin wires are causing the problem correct?The headphone jack on my laptop works when I use a data CD to not introduce a signal, however, occasionally the line "shorts" or something which caused my laptop to reboot. Not good. I'm thinking I need better cabling and I might go to a larger headphone jack instead of the 1/8 and use a reducer. Here's the pinout1/8 Jack Head Unit/CD Player Pin 1 Audio ground to HU and CDPin 2 Left Channel to HUPin 3 Left Channel from CDPin 4 Right Channel from CD Pin 5 Right Channle to HU
floobynoobydude
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 7:09 am

Re: Signal Line Noise (vibe-04)

Post by floobynoobydude »

I have the same experience... maybe...What happens with my setup ('03 M&T single disc) is that I hear the muffled CD with my 1/8" male-male cable plugged into the DPDT switch, but no ipod on the other end of it. Once I plug in the ipod, the noise goes away. When I was working on the install, I went through a couple different rounds of having some bleed,mono,missing channels, etc. The problem wound up being the mismatch of my sub-par soldering skills and the tight quarters on the radio shack DPDT switch. Going back through that carefully and insulating each terminal connection with just some electrical tape got everything squared away, and I've been using my set-up for about 6 months with no problems.Good luck!
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: Signal Line Noise (vibe-04)

Post by the_nite_owl »

I have the same issue with bleed through audio.It seems to be the right channel that bleeds through, at least I hear it through the right speaker. Guess I could try adjusting balance all the way left or right to see if one side causes it to fade out or not.If you find a solution I would like to know. Perhaps if the wires were individually shielded or the ground was provided at the jack rather than at the stereo it might help but then there is the possibility of ground loop problems and I just do not know enough about audio electronics to come up with an answer.As floobynoobydude said, the problem exists when I have not yet plugged my device into the cable but the CD audio goes away or is at least dramatically reduced when my external source is connected.To be clear: I wired the jack up as I described in a previous post so that when plugging into the female stereo jack it disconnects the stereos internal audio and switches to the external input. When not plugged into the female jack the CD plays through.Now, the way I usually operate is I leave a 3.5mm male plug jacked into the female plug and the other end of that cable is a male 2.5mm to bring it down to the size I needed for my Treo. I never unplug the cable from the female jack so the CD audio is always cut out of the loop. I am either listening to content from my Treo or I switch over to FM. It is in this circumstance that the audio bleed through occurs. When my Treo is jacked in the bleed through stops or greatly diminishes, I suspect because of a change in line impedance. If that is the case it may be possible to use a resistor from each channel to ground in the female jack to alter impedance enough to stop the bleed through. I do not know how it may affect the audio but I suspect a small enough resistor would just slightly diminish the overall volume.Anybody wanna test it out? Anyone with more audio electronics knowledge that can tell us what is going on? I will eventually get around to testing but just have not had time for anything lately.I would love to find a circuit that would dampen out all audio signal until the line impedance changes and then ramp it up to full in a short space of time (not all at once) so that when we plug into the stereo it does not give out the loud blizzzttt if you forget to switch to FM before plugging in. Come on all you electronic gurus, you must have some ideas.
vibe-04
Posts: 376
Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2004 9:39 am

Re: Signal Line Noise (the_nite_owl)

Post by vibe-04 »

I redid my connections and found a couple of areas of concern:a) My circuit board has a row of soldered pins that are very sharp and "could" puncture the wires. I put two strips of electrical tape to protect.b) I used a serial cable and I think the wires are too thin. Two of the wires were very close together, possible leakage. I'll use good cable in the future.I still have some problems with whine and found this site has some really good info.http://www.termpro.com/articles/noise.html I got a Sirius receiver and I'm getting horrible whine noise. And the satelite signal sounds like AM radio. I'm not is a happy place till I fix this, however, all problems will be solved, eventually.Andrew
vibe-04
Posts: 376
Joined: Mon Nov 08, 2004 9:39 am

Post by vibe-04 »

The problem I believe is the audio ground coming from the 1/8" stero jack. I could not find the audio ground on the board of a 2004 single disk. I tried the radio case but it is not screwed into the car with a metal-on-metal connection. So, ground loop, next time I'll ground to the car's bare metal. However, I gave up and bought a Sony CDX-GT100 that has a front audio aux-in. All totaled with connectors and enclosures $150 CDN. So I've got a new "better" head unit with more power and a new pocket to store stuff and still have my aux-in.Thanks for all the help: now to config my iPod Nano.Cheers ... Andrew
Kenfromnorcal
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2005 9:20 am

Re: Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done! (Vibration)

Post by Kenfromnorcal »

OK...let's kick it up a notch with this Ipod mod. For the ultimate CLEAN install, install a 3.5mm stereo jack in your dash plate next to the head unit. But there's more! With my "special custom" SWITCHED jack, you don't need to install a switch in your dash to switch the relay or modulator or whatever other technique you use. All that will show is a tiny hole to plug in your Ipod or mp3 player. I did this on my '05 Vibe and it totally works and looks factory. Where to get it? ONLY from me because nobody else makes them.
the_nite_owl
Posts: 104
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 11:34 pm

Re: Hard Wire IPOD on M&T w/o Nav - Done! (Kenfromnorcal)

Post by the_nite_owl »

Quote, originally posted by Kenfromnorcal »OK...let's kick it up a notch with this Ipod mod. For the ultimate CLEAN install, install a 3.5mm stereo jack in your dash plate next to the head unit. But there's more! With my "special custom" SWITCHED jack, you don't need to install a switch in your dash to switch the relay or modulator or whatever other technique you use. All that will show is a tiny hole to plug in your Ipod or mp3 player. I did this on my '05 Vibe and it totally works and looks factory. Where to get it? ONLY from me because nobody else makes them. You mean the switched 3.5mm audio jack that I installed and posted details on last fall does not exist? Nuts, I am going to have to retro-actively find another way to jack-in to make up for all the audio I must not have really listened to when I installed the jack that did not really exist. I just hope all the others that followed the info I posted do not get mad at me for having wasted their time installing a jack that does not exist. At least it would not have cost them anything if they were not actually able to buy it.Gotta run, I have to go get a shovel, the sarcasm is getting a little thick.Seriously though, did you not read through the thread? A number of people have done this mod with the switched stereo 3.5mm jack from Radio Shack.
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