The easy way to test is to go ahead and tap your blue/white hatch release wire on the car. Before hooking it up to the red/white of the 4103, take it and touch any grounded part of the car. It should release.runningslow wrote:Ha. Well, I found that diagram by searching for information on how to use the bulldog 775 relay to pop a trunk. I'll take your word for it that isn't needed.
The weather isn't too favourable this morning for my install, so I'm keeping an eye on the weather.
Maybe I can rig something up and just connect it straight to the battery or piggy back off the harnesses for this test, without disconnecting anything..... otherwise, this will be a huge PITA. At least I used wire taps, instead of soldering wires, so taking them off won't be so bad, if I go that route.SlammedNiss wrote:OK, then let's start from the beginning. I hate to ask this of ya, but disconnect everything EXCEPT your ground (#8, 9-pin) and +12v (red, 6-pin). with only those 2 connected, you should have at least SOME response (relay clicking inside unit ) when pressing lock/unlock on the keypad. If not, the unit is either DOA or something happened along the way.
I see you're in Dallas. I'm a short 6 hours away in Hutchinson, KS. If you can make it here today, I can personally help you figure it out.
There are inline fuses on anything that has incoming power, so I don't think it would be easy to do. Honestly, if you replace the unit, I'd still recommend starting fresh with the wiring, starting first with your main ignition wires + ground. Then testing after every time you hook up another wire. That way if it all of a sudden doesn't respond you know what wire to change.runningslow wrote:SlammedNiss wrote:What are the chances I fried it? Is that easy to do?
Red out of the 6 pin goes to +12v constant, black out of 9 pin needs to go to ground. Plug one end of the antenna wire into the 4103 and plug the other end into the antenna receiver. From there you should hear the internal relay for the parking lights click when pressing lock/unlock on the keypad.runningslow wrote:So, either I now have two DOA units... or I'm doing something wrong. I prefer to think its the latter.
What is the bare minimum that needs to be connected to get signs of life (relay clicking when lock/unlock pressed)?
Ground, power, antenna. Anything else? Please be explicit, exact pins.
The only thing in the box that I haven't touched (apart from satellite harness and hood pin) is a toggle switch, which I had thought is simply intended to be wired in-line with something else (neutral safety?) to activate/deactivate the system.
SlammedNiss is going to be the most helpful person for a remote start issue on this forum.ktmsd999 wrote: ↑Tue Dec 31, 2019 9:21 am No offense but I was hoping for a response from someone with a working knowledge of a remote start system. I don’t think it’s best to disconnect 16 circuits. We know the horn works, the lock unlock function from the fob works, the neutral safety circuit works, the hood switch works, the brake shut down works, the accessory works, and the ignition works to turn on the entire dash lights. It thinks it’s trying to start the car 3 times. Is there some other input it’s looking for? I’ve been using a multimeter. I’ll go back and test the starter output to see if it’s getting 12V on the black ignition switch wire (heavy gauge).
I suspect the issue with unlocking at remote start might have something to do with my factory alarm outputs from the remote start; maybe I mixed them up.
Yea, been doing remotes starts, keyless entries, & vehicle security since 1993. I'm not the one asking for help because I can't figure out why it isn't working. But go ahead, you be you....
If I had absolutely no clue what I was doing (such as yourself) then I would start from scratch. In fact, the very best place to start is at the beginning. It's very likely you might possibly have more than 1 circuit that isn't correct, so even if you fix one thing, it probably still won't work. But, if you already know what to do, then why are you here asking for help? Have fun....ktmsd999 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 01, 2020 3:49 am Than you should know if you installed an entire system and it didn’t work you don’t unhook everything, you trouble shoot it, you don’t go back to the beginning. You write down everything you know and then start verifying circuits are getting the correct signals.
Look, I don't know you or your capabilities. So asking you to start from the very beginning, to attempt to pinpoint the issue, is definitely not a huge ask. In the end, I was correct. You "had to add one circuit and delete another" to get it working, so fixing just one thing wouldn't have got it working. You posted in a thread where somebody had similar problems, where I was the only person who had responded to help him out. Only to tell me that you were "hoping for a response from someone with a working knowledge of a remote start system". As already stated, I've been doing all matters of vehicle convenience systems since 1993, so pretty sure I qualify as somebody "with a working knowledge of a remote start system(s)." Next time, perhaps be a little more appreciative of somebody trying to help you, instead of basically telling them they have no idea what they are talking about, when you were the one asking for help.ktmsd999 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 01, 2020 10:55 am I obviously hit a nerve. I was asking here since it was a bunch of Vibe guys. I only had to add one circuit and delete another and it’s working fine. Again no need to start all the over if you take the time to trouble shoot. I was just hoping someone else maybe had the same issue that could point me in the right direction quickly, not just tell me start from the beginning again.
Agreed-- if something is working correctly after install. Start back over, and pay meticulous attention to it to ensure you are following the procedure. 'That's the best way to ensure you don't screw something up-- whether it be a remote start or anything else.SlammedNiss wrote: ↑Wed Jan 01, 2020 2:14 pmLook, I don't know you or your capabilities. So asking you to start from the very beginning, to attempt to pinpoint the issue, is definitely not a huge ask. In the end, I was correct.ktmsd999 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 01, 2020 10:55 am I obviously hit a nerve. I was asking here since it was a bunch of Vibe guys. I only had to add one circuit and delete another and it’s working fine. Again no need to start all the over if you take the time to trouble shoot. I was just hoping someone else maybe had the same issue that could point me in the right direction quickly, not just tell me start from the beginning again.
You had 2 things wrong, so common sense tells you that it wouldn't have worked had you only corrected one of the issues.
Thank you. We don't need nor want unappreciative people who come in here asking for help, then verbally attack those who do attempt to help. Buh-bye.