GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Does anyone know where this https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B04S2s ... sp=sharing harness goes?
http://s13.postimg.org/5jrhiu38n/audio_control.jpg

It plugs into the clockspring behind the airbag and steering wheel.

Macgyver,
I don't see any where on the clockspring for it to plug in to. Do you have an image? I will remove the steering wheel and take a look again tonight. I will take pictures.

It plugs into the spring clock; flat ribbon cable. If your car did not come with the steering wheel radio controls, then you need to change out the spring clock too along with the other wiring that may be missing. The other thing it could be is someone replaced the spring clock and installed the spring clock for a car with out radio controls at the steering wheel and just left the controls disconnected.

Well, I guess I have the wrong clockspring because I don't see anywhere it is supposed to gour. Can you guess give me a link to a good one. Here are my pictures.
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q419 ... bookjq.jpg
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q419 ... l8mkyg.jpg

I think this is the one you're looking for. But I'm not sure. http://www.ebay.com/itm/161767026478?rmvSB=true

See how this one has a 10 pin connector (audio controls) as well as a 4 pin (cruise and horn)?

Part number 84306-0E010

Macgyver,
Thanks for the guidance. I was told that the clockspring had previously been replaced and that they were all generic. While we are it. My horn doesn't work either. Any clues?

Get a multimeter and start testing. Horn relay could be toast, or the horn itself. Both are cheap and easy fixes.

Unfortunately the clockspring that arrived didn't have a jack for VSC. I know this because I neglected to put it in once before and the VSC light came on.
The image below shows the new installed with the missing input and the old one below with the VSC input. Can I swap the front of the clocksprings and complete the install?

You have to remove the angle sensor from the back of your old clockspring and attach it to the new one. See details here, step 17: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/326-c ... 011-a.html

Thanks again!

Macgyver,
Now that I have reassembled and put everything back together, my horn won't stop blowing. It never worked before the new clockspring. I removed the horn. Did I break the new clockspring is the ground wire permanently touching?

pakong wrote:Macgyver,
Now that I have reassembled and put everything back together, my horn won't stop blowing. It never worked before the new clockspring. I removed the horn. Did I break the new clockspring is the ground wire permanently touching?

Use a multimeter to test for a short.

Macgyver,
I found it. It was the ground wire on the back of the steering wheel. It was touching the frame. I wonder why the horn never worked before?

pakong wrote:Macgyver,
I found it. It was the ground wire on the back of the steering wheel. It was touching the frame. I wonder why the horn never worked before?

Great, so everything works? Did you go with the controls that have only audio controls on the left, or with the phone controls on the right? I'm doing the latter this week, whenever the new clockspring shows up.

Well everything mechanically works. I ran into a road block with the wiring harness in the vehicle. Axxess says to use pins and 3 and 4 on the 14 pin harness. Looking at the 14 pin harness, there is no wire coming out the back. I'm using a Metra 70-2105 harness which works but there is no wire and you have to the power wire separately. The other option is to use the Scosche GM18B which is confirmed to work by Marshall Guthrie on Amazon.com. He made a small modification of relocating the power wire.

The Axxess module with diagram .


The 14 pin harness from the vehicle.


The 16 pin and 14 pin side by side.


The Metra 70-2105 harness
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-2105-Wi ... ra+70-2105

The Scosche GM18B
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Radio-Wi ... sche+GM18B
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-revi ... B000UF24KE

Also, I'm in the process of wiring a Basslink and an Amplifier since I have not found a subwoofer cover to date.

160 AMP Alternator upgrade.


Power cable at battery


100 Amp circuit breaker. I prefer circuit breakers because I easily turn the power on and off.


4 AWG going through the grommet in the firewall.


Mounting the basslink to the backseat. After breaking 3 drill bits I removed the back seat cover and this is what I found. I would not suggest anyone else doing this since it was a fluke that I aligned the Basslink's legs exactly with the frame of the seat. This is just for information.





I usually don't run power wire down the same side as the gas tank opening because I'm a little careful, but this time I did.

I'm truly disappointed in the Basslink
http://community.crutchfield.com/car_au ... k-problems