Howdy... When I was searching for info on this "moons and tunes" package, there was enough, but it wasn't all in one place, so I figure I'll do my part and add what I learned in my process.
My goal was to improve sound quality without going crazy running new wires, and without spending a ton of money.
I purchased 3 items, i'll give crutchfield links because they have a great site for info, but better prices can be found:
Double Din Head unit (first I tried a Kenwood dpx300u, I hated it and returned it, now a JVC KW-R900bt is on the way for 10$ more
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KWR900B ... T&skipvs=T" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Small amp to replace stock one under seat, a Rockford PBR300x2. These are pretty cool little amps, there is a four channel version also, but I wanted more power for my front component set.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Ap2VSkJrwc ... 300X2.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
A set of component speakers: I took a chance on a very cheap pair of Kenwood-KFC-P709PS. They don't have fancy boxes for their crossovers, heck they don't even have a crossover for the woofer, just an inline for the tweeter, which realistically is a perfectly reasonable way to go if you have a woofer that rolls of smoothly. Long story short, for the 65$ shipped I paid for these, I think they are a bargain.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KFCP709 ... 9&skipvs=T" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
And of course install accessories:
Dash kit: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_972 ... 1590A.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Wire Harness: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_450 ... -GM05.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Antenna adapter: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_447 ... -MDA1.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
So that's the gear. Then I spent a bit deciphering the wiring of this setup, with help from wiring diagrams found both on this site, and from crutchfield. I tried my hand at making a wiring diagram to show how it's all going to happen with the stock wiring. It came out retarded, but the info is good. Click to see the whole thing.
So in a nutshell, I'm using the stock wiring to create a pair of RCA wires that go from the head unit to the amp area under the passenger seat, it's easy enough to attach RCA ends to two wires to make a workable signal carrier. Then I'm using the stock wiring to power up the Amp, and to connect the speakers. I'm plugging the rear speakers directly into head unit power, but I suspect ill barely use them. and I have a plan for phase two involving them.
Planning done, all that's left is the work...
The head unit was pretty easy, just remove the old one (pull on trim, remove 4 bolts)
Then connect the suitable wires on the harness to the HU harness by your choice off connectors, I soldered and heat shrunk, but (removed) connectors are fine too. You can see where I added RCA connectors to the front speaker input wires. I got the colors backwards somehow, but I marked em.
Outside is negative, middle wire is positive.
Note on install/dash kits: apparently there are none around that actually look good. The side brackets from mine worked fine to secure the radio in place, but all the trim pieces either didn't fit, or weren't worth using. I'm working on an idea to make my own filler panel, but that's another post.
This is the Kenwood, It looks fine and matched the car ok. It is also impossible to use, and you can't see the screen like at all during the day time. I do not recommend.
So next I went for the speakers.
I put about 10 Sq Ft. per door of this sound deadening material per door: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KN ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Its mostly on the outer panel. I didn't bother to seal and deaden the entire door. I've found in the past that it hasn't been worth my time. Here's a decent resource for deadening and door panel removal: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Xcc4HZO7wE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Although the stuff i used looks MUCH easier to work with that the stuff he used.
Then I tried using the old brackets to mount the speakers by gutting out the old speaker forcefully, splicing in my connectors, and dremeling off that .25" lip around the edge.
It worked fine, but my speakers were rubbing on the door panel when it was all said and done, and rattling at high volume... time to make some MDF brackets. I measured between my speaker and the window inside the door and figured out that a 1/2" spacer would be about perfect... out comes the jigsaw:
I used the old factory ones as a template and it made for an easy job. I didn't recycle the holes because I didn't have any screws that would work with them, but i drilled three new ones and used some modest sheet metal screws to attach the baffles, and the speakers.
The door panels go on and clip fine, the windows roll down fine, and the speakers are secure!
Now for the tweeters. The tweeters and woofers both have a separate pair of wires running back to the amp, so I can put my crossovers over there when I installed the amp.
The sail panels just come off by pulling at the top.
The old Tweeters are attached from the back with a small Phillips screw. I Just bent the metal bracket down slightly to give myself access, then it came right off.
I took all the mounting cups and housings off of my new kenwood tweeters... heres old and new side by side
And here's the new one mounted, I just soldered the new wires on (check your polarity back to the amp wiring plug, the wire colors change. They are just held to the bracket with a moderate amount of high temp hot glue. I have no doubts they will stay there.
So that's it for the front speakers... amp time. I'm sure some will be concerned that I'm using factory wiring to power a 200W RMS aftermarket amp. I'm not worried about it. the factory amp has a 25A fuse under the hood. My new amp has a max draw of 30A, Ill have the gain at half or so, and will be surprised if I'm ever drawing anywhere over 15 amps. It's a pretty efficient little amp.
Access isn't hard. I removed the front seat (4 bolts) and the amp bracket (3 bolts) in a few minutes. Here is what the stock amp and bracket look like when extricated.
Id suggest to do your wires next... think plenty about where they will need to be in the end to save yourself headache later.
In progress(always mark your wires!):
All done. I'm not going to tape this mess shut just yet. Its plenty secure, and god knows ill be getting back in there eventually. The tweeter crossovers are in there too, and the plugs are in place for the amp.
The new amp fit on the old bracket like a dream.
This is a pic from the back once everything was reinstalled:
You can't even tell it's there!
So I think that's it for this phase. I'm pretty pleased with the sound... im used to much more expensive systems, but for the money its clear, loud, distortion free, and has plenty of punch, although the back speakers are stock, with head unit power... i just keep it faded to the front. They will have to go soon. But that's phase two. I have some 6" subs and a chip amp left over from another project, I'm going to see what I can do to add some low end for my front stage with tiny subs in the back doors.
That's all! I know Im about 10 years late posting this, but I just got the car! Gimmie a break!