I finally got around to upgrading all 4 of my speakers for the non-monsoon system.
The upgrade helped in quieting unwanted bass and increased sound clarity tenfold. Basically, stuff sounds better!
I purchased 2 sets of Pioneer speakers for the front and back:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TA1675R ... 1675R.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Each set from Crutchfield came with:
1. The correct speaker mounting bracket (Scosche SAC-656 - http://tinyurl.com/lgovjd6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
2. The correct connector (Metra 71-035LC - http://tinyurl.com/mty7n3d" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)
Removing the door panels and the entire installation were a fairly simple process. With a light hand and some patience, things will go in your favor.
All door panel removal are the same so the steps apply for each door.
Hopefully this little write-up gives you all some confidence in tackling this project.
*Please do not hold me responsible for anything harmful, yet rare, that occurs to your vehicle during this installation. What may work for me might not work for you, so please proceed at your own risk*
Let’s Begin,
**First off, disconnect the negative to the battery. Well, I didn’t disconnect it, but it’s common practice to do so whenever working with anything electrical.**
-This is what we’re working with.
-The first trim piece to remove is found behind the door latch. If you pull the door latch all the way out, there’s a little gap you can wedge a flathead screwdriver or a wedge tool into. The clips are all very sturdy, so you can pop that sucker out without fear of breaking it. This reveals a screw to remove.
-Next is the handle trim surrounding the window switch. First I inserted a pry tool/flathead screwdriver to create enough of a gap. Carefully pry the skinniest part upwards (1) and it will release the rest of the clips as you lift. After the clips are released, slide the piece out (2). Unplug the switch for the window and set trim piece aside.
-The only screws that need to be removed are the black screw behind the latch and the larger silver screws circled in yellow. The smaller screws circled in blue do not need to be removed.
-Here’s the sneakiest of the screws! I almost cracked my door panel in half without taking this guy out. Be sure to remove this! Once removed, you can finally remove the door panel.
-Underneath the door panel, there are two notches that you can slide your fingers underneath to pop the door panel out. Slide your fingers to the right/left until you feel resistance and carefully pull the door panel towards you to release the clips. Work around the door and it should easily come off once the clips are released. I broke one clip, but luckily I had extras from my old Corolla (different style, but fits just fine!)
-Ta-da! Now the real work can begin. I recommend removing the door latch from the cables for an easier removal of the plastic if sound proofing. The handle is easy to remove, just find where the cables connect to. Just remember, Green cable on the top, White cable on the bottom.
-If you are sound-proofing the door, the blue plastic needs to be removed. If not, continue without this step. Carefully peel the plastic off without stretching it too much. The sticky adhesive is good enough to reuse, so no extra adhesive is needed. To make things easier without cutting the plastic, unplug this connection circled in yellow (I believe it’s the plug for the window motor, I’m not too sure) to remove the plastic.
**Once off, you can continue with the speaker removal/install. You can do like me and install some "sound-proofing material". Except I didn't have true sound-proofing material. I just had some Rustoleum undercoating from a previous DIY. If you do this, just be careful you do not spray the mechanical window parts directly, or spray when your windows are down. You will end up spraying your window if your windows are down. Be smart, take it slow, and be careful.**
-Here’s your dainty paper speaker! Looks like someone pushed it a little inwards at the center there... but who cares?! The speaker is riveted at three points and are easy to remove with a drill. I pretty much just found a random drill bit lying around that was bigger than the rivet center and drilled on through. The rivet should fall through, or if it gets stuck, you can wedge it out with pliers. If it does fall through, you can reach in and get it out afterwards.
-Here’s your hole. That’s what she said.
-This is the gigantic mess I ended up with. Again, if using undercoating, be sure to stay away from mechanical window parts and make sure your window is fully up before spraying.
*Note* If going this route, please make sure you find a coating that is water proof/rubberized, and does not have asphalt, because water does flow through the inside of the door.
**I went this route because I’m poor, and surprisingly, it actually helps against outside noises beyond the door. I only have a few thin layers of undercoating to deal with and I at least now have the confidence to remove the door panel once again if I can ever afford proper soundproofing. The only thing that stinks is that it… well, stinks. Leave the window down during drying time and do not spray again (because your window is down!) Once dried (2-3 hours), you can move on. Of course, I didn’t have the patience, so I continued on when it was still a little wet (shame shame).**
-Spaceships on a mission for better audio!
-The adapter fits… somewhat. The top two screws in green go in perfectly, but after talking to a rep at Crutchfield, they told me that I needed to re-drill the final hole. I don’t like that kind of commitment, so I just used 3M double-sided outdoor tape underneath the bottom hole in red. This cushions the bracket to prevent rattle from the plastic against the metal and it even holds a nice grip. After installing, plug in the speaker wire and replace the blue plastic.
-Push the blue plastic back onto the door and the adhesive should stick once more. Make sure all appropriate wires are through the plastic, etc. etc. If you removed the door latch, remember that you must re-install the door latch before replacing the door panel or else you’re going to have a bad time removing the panel again. Green on the top, White on the bottom. Once everything is properly in its place, you can reinstall the door panel. Just line up the top clips first and everything else finds its way back in order. Install the trim pieces in reverse order and voila, all done!
Hopefully this helps you all out and gives you the confidence to remove your door panels whenever you feel like it. Now you can access the window/door latch/speaker components if you need to.
Take it easy
Slade
Secondly, as an owner of TWO 2009 Vibe GT's we will likely be doing some audio upgrades to Juniors Vibe this summer and would like to see a nice write up with pics of this upgrade when you perform it. Specifically where you may need to enlarge openings and/or make any necessary physical changes to the car in order for the newer equipment to fit. Good luck and keep us all posted!