Custom Fiberglass Sub Enclosure...FINISHED!!!

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Tue Mar 22, 2011 10:54 pm

I have recently started my first attempt at a fiber glass enclosure for my 2009 Vibe. I am aware that some have already done this on their cars' wheel well. I however am doing it a little bit different. Mine will be going in the back right corner of the wheel house(not sure if this is the proper name.) I believe the best explanation is the spot where a moon & tunes system sub would go.The goal of this design is to make the sub fit in the smallest place possible while still having complete utilization of my hatch area. One of my fav features of this car is the lift up cargo shelf. So the enclosure has to be small enough to fit without overlapping this space.I have to pick an up to 10" shallow mount sub to go with the box. Does anyone here have any suggestions? This will be an ongoing project that I am in no rush to finish. When I am done I will write up a tutorial if anyone is interested. Since I have just started all I have done thus far is the first layer of masking.If anyone has any suggestions for me that would be great.

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Sublimewind · Post by **Sublimewind** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:17 am

Pretty sweet man... Figure out your overall depth before you decide on a "shallow" sub... if you can get away with a traditional sub, DO IT... I'm not saying the shallow subs are bad, i'm just saying a conventional sub is better... There are soooooo many sub choices out there is silly.. The biggest thing is knowing better what space you have.. both in volume and depth.. Estimated volume will dictate more the size of sub and depth with help determine shallow or not.. Price is another consideration.. Are you building this to stay UNDER the panel? utilizing the stock amount of space? Or are you cutting the panel and finishing around it? If you are cutting the panel, you could practically use anything.. Sounds fun, I'll do my best to help along the way.. Here is a list of shallow mount subs I put together on one of my other sites... if it comes down to it, you have a TON of choices... http://forums.nasioc.com/forum...21144

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 2:21 am

I think a 10" is the best way to go. I measures the gap between the wheel area and the back part near the hatch and it looks like its about 12". Now I know that if i mount the sub a little further out from the wall that I can go bigger but like I said before, I love my hatch and I haul as much as I can. So smaller is better.I may look into a normal sub after I get the initial fiberglass form down.I have read online what is needed to measure cubic volume. So based off that number I can best choose the right sub.My first real question is what to use as a releasing agent to allow the dried fiberglass to release from its position.

Crabbycrab · Post by **Crabbycrab** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 11:40 am

Awesome project idea, can't wait to see the final product.For some odd reason I knew wax was used as a releasing agent in fiberglassing. Here's just a random link to some product: http://www.fiberglasssupply.co....htmlGood luck!

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:34 pm

I watched a video the other day of a guy who did a fiberglass mount install for an IPAD 2 in his dash. He used aluminum foil. He seemed to have no problems getting the mould to release. I'm pretty much done with the second layer of masking tape. Next, Im gonna use some 3M spray glue to glue in the aluminum foil. Im not sure what Im gonna do with the amp yet though. If this first fiberglass project comes out nice I may make a small mount on the opposite side and just run the wires underneath all that plastic.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:52 am

WELL, I started my fiberglass today but I cant tell if im doing something wrong. They resin is drying way to fast. Like i can mix 8 ounces and the stuff is drying in 10 minutes. Not rock hard but so fast that Im going through brushes extremely quickly. Ill post some more pics after the first few layers are done tonight.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Fri Mar 25, 2011 10:56 am

new pics up

527484=15821-3layersfiber.JPG

Sublimewind · Post by **Sublimewind** » Sat Mar 26, 2011 2:10 am

Quote, originally posted by bigdaddyjosh »WELL, I started my fiberglass today but I cant tell if im doing something wrong. They resin is drying way to fast. Like i can mix 8 ounces and the stuff is drying in 10 minutes. Not rock hard but so fast that Im going through brushes extremely quickly. Ill post some more pics after the first few layers are done tonight.Looking good so far... AFA the resin gelling fast, you are mixing "hot" back off some 10-20 drops of hardener.. When mixing resin you should always start with a test mix in a small cup, it's not an exact science.. if it's warm out, you'll use less hardener, cool more.. I've mixed so hot it SMOKED.. not goood.. You want to achieve a mix that gives you time to work, but still hardens.. but not one that hardens so fast and gets so hot it warps.. And well, like I said, if you can use a regular woofer, you'll be happier... To easily determine volume, packing peanuts and a 12x12x12 (1cf) box..

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:35 am

Ok, yesterday it was 84 degress and today it was 59. This made a drastic difference in cure times. The mold is out and looking good atleast on the form fitting part. Does it really matter what the inside looks like? Because it looks like sh@t lol.I'm currently building layers for added thickness. I think I read somewhere on the net about a thumb pressure test. Basically you press with some force on parts of the enclosure and where it starts to give you then build that spot up.Also, how can I add photos directly to the page instead of download links?

MotoAce51 · Post by **MotoAce51** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:47 am

It looks good. Keep the progress coming.Add photos by uploading them to a site like photobucket and then push the button on the reply that looks like a mountian and sun and post the link in the code.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:30 am

[IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:33 am

[IMG][/IMG]

Sublimewind · Post by **Sublimewind** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 1:36 pm

Quote, originally posted by bigdaddyjosh »Ok, yesterday it was 84 degress and today it was 59. This made a drastic difference in cure times. The mold is out and looking good atleast on the form fitting part. Does it really matter what the inside looks like? Because it looks like sh@t lol.I'm currently building layers for added thickness. I think I read somewhere on the net about a thumb pressure test. Basically you press with some force on parts of the enclosure and where it starts to give you then build that spot up.Also, how can I add photos directly to the page instead of download links?Yep, cure times change with a lot of factors.. No the inside doesn't matter, the rougher the better actually.. AFA thickness, it depends.. on areas that aren't flat.. it can be thinner.. curves and convulsions can increase strength.. The flatter it is, the thicker it's got to be.. If you do single layers, run them over the whole thing and your thickness should be the same all the way through..

CAMOGIRL · Post by **CAMOGIRL** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:43 pm

Project looks like it's coming along very well! I am excited to see how it turns out. What material are you planning on using on the front?

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:55 pm

Im buying a 10" mdf recessed ring from amazon. After I mount that, ill cover the entire front with fleece. Then resin the whole thing and wait till it dries. Next, Ill add 4 or so layers of fiberglass, sand then carpet or paint it. I am getting married in a little over a month and then heading to Cancun. So, I will not have the money for the amp or sub for a while.I have PLENTY of left over materials so I may build a small amp rack or figure out a way to hide the amp all together.As for the amp/sub...well, I think im only gonna do 300 watts. Ive already got a 600 watt amp going to my mids and highs. I have PA components put it with 1" seperate tweeters in the doors.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:01 pm

Sublimewind, as for your question about cutting into plastic to make use of a bigger sub, I just can't do it captain. Im planning on buying a new car in 2013 if this GMC concept car gets green-lighted. All internet coverage points to this happening. The vibe needs to be in excellent condition for a decent trade in value for my new car.BTW the car I want is the GMC Granite. Look it up, it is sweet.

Kincaid · Post by **Kincaid** » Mon Mar 28, 2011 1:05 pm

Agree with you on the Granite - love the style!

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:28 am

I just wanted to update all, the box is looking great now. I had to use a die grinder to get rid of all the air bubbles I had originally. Now that I have a good method going Im able to add layer after layer fairly quickly. I just ordered a recessed 10" mdf ring off amazon and as soon as that gets here I should be able to start fiberglassing the front. BTW. They weren't kidding when they said 30+ hours of labor do this project. Tonights task is beer and layers followed by more beer and Call of Duty. Tomorrow I should start sanding. TTFN.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:37 am

To answer your query. Ill be using fleece. Apparently you mount your mdf ring with hot glue. Then you cover the front with polyester fleece. Apparently this is the best material since its a stretchy fabric. You attatch it with spray glue all the way around the box making sure the wrinkles are out. Then you cover the whole piece in resin(no fiberglass). After that hardens you fiberglass 3-4 layers and sand it. Then bondo and paint. Ive got atleast 15 more hours. Also, I think I may have glassed 2 of my toes together tonight. A drop of resin dripped in between 2 of my toes tonight. Ill let you guys know how it comes out tomorrow after the alcohol wears off.

Sublimewind · Post by **Sublimewind** » Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:03 pm

Mount your ring on dowels with dabs of hot glue... stretch the fleece over and attach to the box... Soak it with resin and you've just stuck fleece to ring, no wimpy hot glue in the way.. If you get the fleece down nice and smooth, you can cut your mat into strips and apply it from the INSIDE (through the hole) and save a LOT of finishing work..

hapagan · Post by **hapagan** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 7:59 am

dude this is so awesome. i wish i knew how to make my own :/ dont trust myself tho.

KITT222 · Post by **KITT222** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 8:07 am

Quote, originally posted by hapagan »dude this is so awesome. i wish i knew how to make my own :/ dont trust myself tho. I believe someone over on Matrix Owners is selling theirs for the first-generation Matrix.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:14 am

Sanding is done. Well as done as it needs to be for just the shell. The mdf ring should be here next week and I purchased the fleece for $5 at walmart today. It feels like the box weighs atleast 20lbs at this point.I did A fit check and the box fits perfect with no overlap with the cargo shelf in the back.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:14 am

New pics

hapagan · Post by **hapagan** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:00 pm

Quote, originally posted by KITT222 »I believe someone over on Matrix Owners is selling theirs for the first-generation Matrix.can u provide a link ? i looked but didnt see anything :/

KITT222 · Post by **KITT222** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:09 pm

Quote, originally posted by hapagan »can u provide a link ? i looked but didnt see anything :/Sure!http://matrixowners.com/index....04-xr/Item #2. I didn't check to see if anyone had dibs on it though.

hapagan · Post by **hapagan** » Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:20 pm

ahh yes i saw that one but its only local pick up. and its on the other side of the country lol thnx tho. plus is sold

LarryKingsShoes · Post by **LarryKingsShoes** » Mon Apr 04, 2011 3:09 pm

Great work on the enclosure, man! I'm jealous of the space that you'll be saving. In fact, this thread has inspired me to look into making my own custom enclosure. I've been doing a ton of reading and watching YouTube videos on the subject so I feel like, with some help from my brothers and plenty of patience, I could pull off something like this.Have you gotten to the stage of measuring the potential volume and available space for mounting depth? If I do end up making a custom enclosure for my sub, I'm looking at needing about 6.5" or more of depth for mounting (depending on how much space you need to leave between the magnet and the back of the enclosure) and a volume as close to 1 cubic foot. I haven't measured the available space in my '03 so I don't know if it's even a viable option. I'd prefer to not have to get a new woofer (especially a shallow mount, since the models that get consistently positive reviews are much more expensive than my budget would allow at this point). Keep up the good work and I hope the rest of your project goes smoothly! I'm looking forward to future updates to this thread.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:30 pm

Youtube was my inspiration as well. Unfortunately there is not alot on there for entirely fiberglass boxes. So i had to pull from multiple different sites. Im planning on get a 12x12x12 inch box today from work and filling that with styrofoam peanutes and ill use that to measure the volume.I already know how Im gonna mount it and I am sure it will look good. I figure ill have atleast 10" mounting depth. As far as having extra volume, I read you can fill that space with polyfill aka pillow stuffing to take up the difference. I think Im just gonna buy a kicker comp 10 from best buy. Its only 89 or 99 bux and and I already have a 4 channel amp. Im not looking at going high dollar or being heard half a mile away.Anyhow as soon as the ring comes in I can press forward. Ill be done within 2 weeks.

LarryKingsShoes · Post by **LarryKingsShoes** » Tue Apr 05, 2011 10:58 am

Very nice! I've heard good things about the Kicker subs. I was searching for good shallow mount subs and I kept coming across the Kicker CompVT. I'm starting to think that I won't need to get a new sub, though. The mounting depth of my RE Audio SE12 isn't tremendously deep.I was feeling productive today so I started masking off my panel and drawing out possible shapes for the molding. In order to fit the 12" driver, I'll probably lose access to that side storage box and a few of the cargo tie-down anchors. I've drawn up a few ideas on the masking tape to remedy that, though. I'll probably try to move the anchors and craft a small cubby hole to put under the sub enclosure (depending on the volume that I end up with). I'm going to do the foil layer tomorrow after class and transfer the final design over to that layer. I'm surprised that you're estimating 10" of mounting depth. In my '03 I'm looking at about 6" of depth if I don't alter the panel and want to retain access to the spare tire chamber. This is figuring that I'll have the sub parallel to the trim and not angled. You should have on trouble finding a nice sub that will fit that nicely, then! I didn't realize that the '09 Vibes had that much more depth available back there.About the stuffing/PolyFil, I've come across that as well. Most of the information about it that I've seen, however, has said that it should be used to make the box appear larger to the woofer. I don't completely understand the science of it but the information I've read has been mostly mentioning that attribute. At any rate, it seems safer to make it slightly larger than have it end up being too small, having a negative impact on the sub's performance. The box that my RE Audio woofer is in right now is actually larger than 1.0 ft^3 and it performs quite well so I'm not too concerned (as long as it doesn't end up being extremely large in the end, but I'll make sure to plan that out).I have one more question for you, if you don't mind elaborating; how do you plan on mounting the enclosure to the trim panel? One of my first concerns about building a custom enclosure was having it vibrate the plastic trim and the matter of getting to rest safely against the plastic.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Tue Apr 05, 2011 1:28 pm

I wasn't saying that I would need a 10" mounting depth, I was saying that I should have appr. 10" of space between the sub mount and the back wall of the box. The Kicker Im looking at only needs about 5 inches of depth. Im gonna mount the trim ring on stilts and that will be raised off a little from the box. It looks good in my head so Im sure all will be fine.As far as how to mount the enclosure, well I have come up with a few ideas. Velcro being one but not my fav. I think im gonna make 2 hinges and rivet those to the trim panel. Then i can place the box and the hinges will swing down and keep the box from moving. The part that Im not completely sure is, is how to run the speaker wires. Every one online says to drill a small hole and run the wires but Im thinking of a more elegant approach. Ill get back to you on that one.BTW the mdf ring shipped today so Ill be mounting and doing the front of the box this weekend hopefully.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Wed Apr 06, 2011 9:09 pm

I wasn't saying that I would need a 10" mounting depth, I was saying that I should have appr. 10" of space between the sub mount and the back wall of the box. The Kicker Im looking at only needs about 5 inches of depth. Im gonna mount the trim ring on stilts and that will be raised off a little from the box. It looks good in my head so Im sure all will be fine.As far as how to mount the enclosure, well I have come up with a few ideas. Velcro being one but not my fav. I think im gonna make 2 hinges and rivet those to the trim panel. Then i can place the box and the hinges will swing down and keep the box from moving. The part that Im not completely sure is, is how to run the speaker wires. Every one online says to drill a small hole and run the wires but Im thinking of a more elegant approach. Ill get back to you on that one.BTW the mdf ring shipped today so Ill be mounting and doing the front of the box this weekend hopefully.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 11:38 am

Well the speaker ring is in and im not happy. This thing is huge. 1.5" thick. Is this normal? plus it is very wide. I can make it work but it'll take more sanding. here is a pic.

Sublimewind · Post by **Sublimewind** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:40 pm

How does it fit on the sub? Remember, you are mounting an acoustical traducer to that ring (a heavily vibrating speaker) and will need to glass TO said ring.. If it fits the sub, I would be more happy it's nice and heavy, than I would be sad... AFA mounting the box and the speaker wire... I would run at LEAST one heavy screw (if not 2) through the back of the box, into some sort of metal.. Velcro is NOT an option in my eyes, in a wreck, it's a 50lb football flying around.. The wire, drill a hole in the back of the box, in a space where the exiting wire won't be hitting anything.. Drill the hole just big enough for the wire, run the wire through, leaving plenty of slack inside of the box to get the sub in/out.... Tie a knot in the wire, about 1" from the hole, apply RTV around the hole, on the wire and on the knot.. Pull the last inch of wire through, pulling the RTV with it, tie another knot and push it against the box... A more elegant approach isn't needed here, you'll never see it..

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 10:35 pm

Wow! Wreck!?!? I never even thought about that. My kid sits back there. Excellent point. Ill look into this.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:12 pm

New Pics

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:08 am

hapagan · Post by **hapagan** » Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:16 am

that looks awesome!!

star_deceiver · Post by **star_deceiver** » Sun Apr 17, 2011 9:27 am

Nicely done! How's it held in place?

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sun Apr 17, 2011 10:11 am

I took Sublimewind's advice and drilled 2 bolts throught the fiberglass and plastic. This thing isn't going anywhere. The sub is not the best but it was cheap and is compatible with my current 4 channel amp. After I get married im gonna go with a class d amp and at least a 500 watt sub. Ill probably get started on that in July.

Sublimewind · Post by **Sublimewind** » Sun Apr 17, 2011 11:29 am

Very nice man... I gotta ask though, why mot paint it a similar color to the interior? It most certainly would disappear Especially if you had a sub grill... (you know you can use vinyl dye on plastic right? you could possibly dye the sub the color of the trim!!)And the last thing, how are you sealing the sub to the box? I saw some pretty wikkid groves and whatnot in the mount surface.. i'm just wondering? Gasket foam for windows works great.. (home windows, cheap stuff)

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Sun Apr 17, 2011 12:42 pm

I sanded the ring after the paint was applied. Its flat with no grooves now. I had other other subs both professionaly done and done by me and at no time was anything placed between the wood and the sub such as a gasket.As for the color...well I wanted it to pop out at ya. I thought about going the same color as my car but I wanted to be done with this project. I am happy with it...for now:)

Kincaid · Post by **Kincaid** » Wed Apr 20, 2011 2:47 pm

that deserves a big...dayum!

silverbullet · Post by **silverbullet** » Thu Apr 21, 2011 7:14 am

wow great job. i have been lurking on this thread to see how it would turn out. awesome!

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Wed Aug 03, 2011 10:11 pm

4 months later...and the sub still sounds great! The box is in great condition still. Im now thinking of building a second box or amp rack to go on the left side of the hatch. Has anyone here removed the back passenger seat and if so, is possible to mount an amp somewhere? The reason I ask is because my amp is currently mounted underneath the passenger seat and is constantly getting kicked by people back there.

Wolfman213 · Post by **Wolfman213** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 1:05 am

I've had the back seats out and I would NOT recommend mounting and amp under them. It's not the greatest surface for one and two there's not much give for when a person would be sitting back there. Just my thoughts when I was looking at it, but it's simple to take a look. I believe the bolt is only a 14mm or 17mm, can't remember which, and if you unbolt it in the front, the seat tilts up for ya.

KITT222 · Post by **KITT222** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 1:11 am

If you don't need to tilt your seats down too much, you could mount it on the back of the rear seats.

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 2:17 am

I haul stuff back there constantly and frequently have the seats layed forward. I have a few ideas on how to mount it, but its much to hot right now to deal with that now. Yesterday I got in my car and the temp gauge said 118 degrees. After i drove a little bit the temp settled down to 108 which happens to be the same temp the weather man said it would be.Ill start my new project in September or October.

JLDs2003Vibe · Post by **JLDs2003Vibe** » Thu Aug 04, 2011 5:01 pm

Hey BDJ! Sorry to hear about the 118! I guess 108 isn't much better though. LOL Anyway, great job on your enclosure. I've been trying to figure out options for my 2003. You've inspired me. I love the great info on here. So much good advice, love it! I'm thinking maybe trying the FG on each side of the rear cargo area for a couple of 6 X 9's. Actually I may measure and see if I could fit a 10" sub AND a 6 X 9 on the Passenger side. I'd separate the two, inside the enclosure. We'll see. My door panels rattle a lot so i'm thinking by-passing the rear door speakers for the mentioned set up. Do you get many/any rattles with your sub back there? I'm with you - I want to keep functionality back there/access to the spare, etc. I'm wondering if I could make my own MDF trim ring? If you don't mind me asking - how much was the Amazon one? I'm sure that's easier/quicker... Regardless, Thanks for all the posts/pics! Well done!

bigdaddyjosh · Post by **bigdaddyjosh** » Fri Aug 05, 2011 12:17 am

Rattles are not really that big of an issue for me. There may be some but they are unobtrusive. At my listening volume I can not hear them and at a lower volume they are not bothersome enough to complain.Many people make their own trim rings but I do not have the right tools for the job. I was trying to keep the cost down and the one on Amazon was just right. Cost for the ring was $21. Yes options you have with fiberglass are endless so with practice and skill you can make just about anything. As far as having room for 6x9's that shouldnt be a prob.

Custom Fiberglass Sub Enclosure...FINISHED!!!

Custom Fiberglass Sub Enclosure...FINISHED!!!

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