Check Engine + SensaTrac + VSC OFF *flashing*

[mbratch]

Hello....

I had the same problem on my 09 GT. The pins and plug had corrosion on them. I put toilet bowl cleaner on a cue tip and applied to both...I let set for a few minutes then sprayed water to clean out along with blowing out with air. I then applied die electoto protect from possibly happening again.... I drove down the steeet, the lights went out and everything works perfect.... The shop I took it to wanted $1014.00 to fix it......I fixed it for free...... didn't even have to take the wheels off...... This worked for me.....I hope it works for you. Good Luck......

Hey that sounds cool. Where are the pins and plug located?

[johnnymac3169]

Plugs are behind the hub in the center.

[Magou]

I got the same problem with my 2009 Vibe, and I'm pretty sure it's something with the wheel speed sensor. So I tried last week-end to clean the connector of both rear wheels, but I'm not sure how to unplug it. There is a grey plastic parts that I can separate and then move a little bit, but don't seem to be able to completely remove it (don't want to break anything). What is the best way to remove the connector to clean it?

[classyceta]

So I got the same error codes...all three!! The dashboard was lit up like a Christmas tree!

Took it to the dealer and got error codes P0607 & P0138 & C1201....02 sensor shorted to the ECM! F'kn great! Dealer wants over $1K+....

Anyone else get there ECM fixed and still get the error codes??

Not sure what I want to do, keep it or dump it (09 GT, 98k miles andthis is the only major issue I have had)

[alex_nrv]

So I got the same error codes...all three!! The dashboard was lit up like a Christmas tree!

Took it to the dealer and got error codes P0607 & P0138 & C1201....02 sensor shorted to the ECM! F'kn great! Dealer wants over $1K+....

Anyone else get there ECM fixed and still get the error codes??

Not sure what I want to do, keep it or dump it (09 GT, 98k miles andthis is the only major issue I have had)

1000$ for an o2 sensor ?!?!?!?!?! Or maybe they wanted to change the whole ECM computer?
On my side, the lights did NOT came back on since the last time. During winters, it never happens since it's mostly cold and mostly dry in the air. But during the summer when it's hot and humid in the air, THEN the lights will come ON.
My cousin had the hypothesis that the o2 sensor (probably the code P0138 which is an error code for O2 Sensor - Bank 1 Sensor 2) might be shorted by the high humidity. But this is only temporary, because when it dries, th eproblem goes away by itself until the next big rain and humidity level while it's hot. So if I understood what my cousin explained to me, if the sensor goes shorted, it then sends a signal of somewhere around 5 volts (a bad reading, essentially) and the ECM goes nuts because it's not supposed to be sending this signal.
I DON'T THINK the ECM if faulty. I think the SENSOR is driving the ECM crazy, but when the sensor dries, the problem goes away and everything comes back to normal.

Some people have been experiencing engine rough idles, which would be normal since the o2 sensor is acting weird and the ECM is trying to correct the problem by modifying the oxygen to fuel ratio... so More oxygen means more fuel going in the engine... but since it's a BAD READING, there is actually NOT more oxygen getting into the engine, but the ECM is fooled and then sends MORE fuel... which results in a rough idle (nearly drowning the engine in fuel and stalling).

I did NOT experience roug idle myself, so the problem is only temporary and annoying for a short time. The VSC and SensaTRAC aren't really useful in the summertime. It's especially useful during winter when it is very slippery. Only rarely I got the SensaTRAC come ON during summer on wet pavement, and this was only because I was driving more aggressively when leaving stopsigns. Now I drive very carefully and shifting at 2,500-3,000 (max) RPM and I never have the wheels spinning.
So even if the lights DO come ON, I know they will go away and I know it won't really affect the car while they're ON.

If YOUR lights do NOT come off by themselves, then consider having the error codes resetted (either with a code reader, or simply by unplugging the battery's negative (black) cable).
This will clear the code. If they do COME BACK after a couple seconds (or couple minutes), then you might have a more serious problem than I do.
Consider having the o2 sensor replaced and the wires around it treated against humidity. THAT'S what I would do to try to fix my problem before going deeper. Some grease or simply WD40 (runs off way quicker, though) would do the job at keeping the area dry from water.

Hope this helps. It is a VERY ANNOYING problem on VIBES... It is one of the downside of the car. At least the positive upsides of the car ovetake the negative ones.

Good luck!

[mbratch]

Plugs are behind the hub in the center.

It took me awhile to get to looking at this, but I finally did. I found the connectors. It looks like this:




What I can't figure out is how to open it without damaging it. I have a Haynes manual which is useless in this area (they just indicate that the sensor is an integrated part of the assy and leave it at that, never mentioning it much further).

So how does one open the connector? If figured out how to get the grey casing off, but not the rest of it.

Thanks.

[Rayven01]

The Matrix service manual says to insert a flat screwdriver into the hole to disconnect the connector. The actual sensor itself is pressed into the hub and is not designed to be removed, but at least with the plug off you can try cleaning the outer contacts.

[hlls0172]

anyone try this? I tried last night with not much luck. Just insert screwdriver and pull I assume?

[Rayven01]

I haven't. Unfortunately the service manual just says "insert screwdriver" with no further explanation...

[classyceta]

So I got the same error codes...all three!! The dashboard was lit up like a Christmas tree!

Took it to the dealer and got error codes P0607 & P0138 & C1201....02 sensor shorted to the ECM! F'kn great! Dealer wants over $1K+....

Anyone else get there ECM fixed and still get the error codes??

Not sure what I want to do, keep it or dump it (09 GT, 98k miles andthis is the only major issue I have had)

So I decided to keep the vibe since its been problem free for 98k miles and fix the ECM and 02 sensor. I went to a couple of other places and the code read the same, ECM and 02. Cost was $1100 out the door from the dealer and its warranty for a year. Sucks but I didn't like what's out there in the used car market and I already know what I have. It's a "GT" for "Great Transportation" since I drive 100 miles a day and avg 27.5 mpg. So I hope I can get another 100k out of her...PROBLEM FREE!!

[mitgsx]

This was my method:

There is a tab on the top and bottom of the grey outer case, marked in black is the upper.

Once that outer case is off, you will need to unplug the connector. I kept tapping the black connector with a screwdriver to loosen the dust built up inside. Then pressed the release tab on top and pried gently with a screw driver where the connector meets the hub sensor. Best to work the top and bottom with a screwdriver, this connector will not come off as easy as it goes on.

Once off, used some toilet bowl cleaner on q-tips to the pins of the connector, then sprayed with electrical cleaner. Used some dielectric grease generously on the plug and buttoned everything back up. I did have the battery disconnected while doing this. I don't know if that plays into it. I did turn traction control off/on multiple times without issues during the test drive (beating).

Wife is happy, mission accomplished.

[mbratch]

This was my method:

There is a tab on the top and bottom of the grey outer case, marked in black is the upper.

Once that outer case is off, you will need to unplug the connector. I kept tapping the black connector with a screwdriver to loosen the dust built up inside. Then pressed the release tab on top and pried gently with a screw driver where the connector meets the hub sensor. Best to work the top and bottom with a screwdriver, this connector will not come off as easy as it goes on.

In the modified pic you x-ed out the original annotation for release point on the connector, but in your description above you refer to "pressed the release tab on top". What part of the connector, after the outer grey jacket is off, is the release tab?

[mitgsx]

You can put a screw driver and press down vertically, like the original annotation. Like I said, for me, I had to take off the grey case so I could work with the black connector within. I to end up tapping the black connector to loosen it before removal. They were gentle taps.

Yes, the black connector release tab is on top. It can be accessed through the grey outer case per original.

It was easier to see what I was working with having the outer case removed.

[mbratch]

You can put a screw driver and press down vertically, like the original annotation. Like I said, for me, I had to take off the grey case so I could work with the black connector within. I to end up tapping the black connector to loosen it before removal. They were gentle taps.

Yes, the black connector release tap is on top. It can be accessed through the grey outer case per original.

It was easier to see what I was working with having the outer case removed.

Great. Thanks for clarifying. I think the original image assumed the outer casing would be removed, but it's good to be explicit.

[alex_nrv]

I wanted to tell to all of you guys that my problem seemed to be "gone".
I really need to knock HARD on wood, I hope I won't have another flashing lights episode this fall... But normally, my VSC/SENSATRAC problem would occur during the late spring/summer/early fall... When the weather is mostly damp and hot (15 celcius and up) and it NEVER happened during winter.
Last fall, I got the car treated with KROWN rust protection (oil). I think the coat of oil applied to the car "sealed" the issue and repelled any humidity from the problem location (probably a sensor, whether oxygen or ABS).

So to all of you, if you still have this problem occuring "intermittently" (on and off), have your car treated with an liquid oil rust protection.
Not a single time I've had the problem this summer. Let's see the last stretch of fall before cold weather. If I don't get the problem, I think I can call the issue somehow "fixed", I'll be getting my car treated every year to be sure it won't come back and rust will be kept away for a long time.

[mbratch]

I wanted to tell to all of you guys that my problem seemed to be "gone".
I really need to knock HARD on wood, I hope I won't have another flashing lights episode this fall... But normally, my VSC/SENSATRAC problem would occur during the late spring/summer/early fall... When the weather is mostly damp and hot (15 celcius and up) and it NEVER happened during winter.
Last fall, I got the car treated with KROWN rust protection (oil). I think the coat of oil applied to the car "sealed" the issue and repelled any humidity from the problem location (probably a sensor, whether oxygen or ABS).

So to all of you, if you still have this problem occuring "intermittently" (on and off), have your car treated with an liquid oil rust protection.
Not a single time I've had the problem this summer. Let's see the last stretch of fall before cold weather. If I don't get the problem, I think I can call the issue somehow "fixed", I'll be getting my car treated every year to be sure it won't come back and rust will be kept away for a long time.

That's kind of funny. I jacked up my car early summer and played with it a bit but didn't really change anything. But after fiddling with it (wiggling, etc), the problem has gone away for me as well. Perhaps temporarily, but we've had all sorts of weather and it hasn't come back. But if it does, I do plan to get in there again and actually clean the contact or whatever. I think the "sealing" idea sounds good, too. It does seem a bit exposed to the elements.

[twocell]

thanks for the great info ... just did same & sorry to say it lasted 4 days & lights back on ... going to try front speed sensors & MAF as discussed in other links ... so greatful for this forum ... thanks

[twocell]

just wanted to update fix ... pulled sensor again, blew it out & reconnected, applied dielectric grease w/silicone that seems to be doing the trick

[mbratch]

Mine was doing fine again for several months (since early Summer). This week, we had a very damp, 40-degree-ish weather spell after a long much colder, drier spell. And suddenly, the problem is back. I'll have to get in there and clean the connections and see if that clears it up.

[SnowFish]

Our 2010 Vibe, with 65,000 miles, is have the same Check Engine, Traction Control, and VSC Light Flashing. Check engine code is P0138.....O2 sensor.
I cleared the code, with my scanner last week, and now it's back. Just cleared it again and checked the gas cap.

Has there been any definitive solutions, other than the possibilities posted?

[alex_nrv]

Our 2010 Vibe, with 65,000 miles, is have the same Check Engine, Traction Control, and VSC Light Flashing. Check engine code is P0138.....O2 sensor.
I cleared the code, with my scanner last week, and now it's back. Just cleared it again and checked the gas cap.

Has there been any definitive solutions, other than the possibilities posted?

Sorry, no definitive solutions.
But my car has been doing well since I had it oil-sprayed (rust-proof treatment).
It's probably a connexion somewhere, like a sensor of some kind (might be the O2 sensor... but I don't know).
I would suggest to live with it... when it happens, the problem goes away by itself, in the same day. Maybe your problem is persistent, in that case, it sux. But in my case, if it happens, withing 12 hours it's gone by itself. And like I said, a rust-proof treatment is doing a really good job... 2 for 1: preventing rust AND fixing the VSC + SensaTrac lights.
Have your car treated for rust ($100ish). It's worth it, for the rust-protection alone.

[farmerboy1971]

My '09 currently has the VSC light flashing, ABS, E-Brake and Traction Control lights on. The garage I bought the car from told me it is due to a bad sensor in the right rear wheel bearing. They say once the part is replaced the lights will go off.

My 09 1.8 auto has exact thing. Took it in today and they ordered hub for rear right wheel as well.

I should update this, a year later it's still working fine and I will add that because the sensor was in the hub, it qualified for powertrain warranty since I was just under 160,000km or 100,000 miles.

[69chevyguy]

Well I have not had a recurrence of the P0607 or the P0138 code for a couple of weeks now (and it has only happened twice in the last year). Per the service bulletin this issue appears to be linked to hot ambient conditions so I decided to follow the instructions in the service bulletin anyway to check for moisture in and around the HO2S connector on a hot humid day with the A/C running. Well, I did not detect any moisture below the evaporator and actually could not find the HO2S connector in the area where the bulletin said it should be (maybe because I have a manual trans?? dunno). I guess I will need to find the HO2S connector in my car to see if there is any water in it but have yet to do so. The symptoms I am experiencing are exactly as described in the bulletin so at least it has me pointed in the right direction. Here is a full version of the bulletin (The HO2S connector in question is supposed to be directly behind the side IP panel which is the trim panel directly to the right of the gas pedal):

#10-06-04-010: Intermittent MIL/Check Engine Light
On, DTCs P0607 and/or P0138, Vehicle Stability Control
Lamp On, Driveability Concerns in High Ambient
Temperatures with A/C On (Clean HO2S Connector and
Inspect...) - (Jul 22, 2010)
Condition
Some customers may comment on an intermittent MIL/check engine light and/or an illuminated
vehicle stability control light. They may also comment about driveability concerns in high ambient
temperatures with the A/C on.
Upon further diagnosis, a technician may find DTC P0607 and/or P0138.
Cause
This condition may be caused by water leaking from the evaporator onto the electrical connector in
the center IP area. The evaporator drain may be restricted, causing water to drip from the
evaporator case onto the post HO2S connector. This creates a path for current to flow from the
heater circuit to the HO2S signal circuit. There may not be carpet wet from this leak, only the
connector.
Correction
Note: The drainage from the HVAC case may not be extensive enough to cause wet carpet or
other damage.
1. Remove the side IP panel then move the carpet back to gain access to the HO2S
connector.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2PjrD ... FNodGlMOHM
2. Locate the HO2S connector. Clean the connector with compressed air and apply a
small amount of silicone grease to the connector.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2PjrD ... GhMaS0yY0U
3. Locate the HVAC core box. Inspect for moisture in that area. If moisture is present, it's
possible that a plugged evaporator drain tube may be the issue.
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2PjrD ... W5VNHZORTA
4. Install the carpet back and reattach the IP side panel.
5. Inspect for a plugged evaporator drain tube. Force compressed air up the drain hose to
remove excess water. Drain until a steady flow is achieved and the blockage is cleared.
6. Test drive the vehicle then inspect the evaporator drain tube to verify if it is operating
correctly.

I've just had this problem. I have a 2009 Vibe. 2.4L, FWD standard trans. The harness and connector in the TSB doesn't even exist on my car, there is nothing there...anyone else have the same? Now what? I really think this is the issue not the hub problem in my case, as this has happened only after excessive rain and using the A/C in humid temps...

[Rayven01]

I definitively tracked down the cause of the issue on my Vibe today. It's definitely the passenger rear wheel speed sensor. I removed the wire harness plug from the sensor and found that one of the two tiny pins inside the hub side had broken off and was stuck inside the plug. There was green corrosion and damage to the plug from arcing between the two ends of the broken pin. It's really a very poorly designed part for where it is located. The pins are no bigger than those found on computer parts (less than a millimeter in diameter) and the plug is located right where rocks thrown up by the wheels can knock against it and break the pins inside easily.

Here's the hub side with the base of the broken off pin visible on the left surrounded by green corrosion from arcing.


Here's the plug side with the broken pin visible in the right hole, which is cracked and has green corrosion from arcing.


Here's a fresh picture of the assembled plug. To disconnect, stick a pocket screwdriver in between the grey outer covering and the black plug near the top about 1/2" and pull up on the screwdriver gently to disengage the lock while pulling back to unplug it. If you pry too hard you'll just open the grey cover which unwraps from around the plug and then lets you disengage the lock on top with your finger.


I have no idea how to get the broken pin out of the plug, nor how to replace the pin inside the end of the sensor. Anyone have any ideas? Otherwise it's going to require a new hub and wiring harness, just like most people report their mechanics have had to do to fix it. $200 in parts and several hours of labor.

[vibenvy]

Last Friday on my way home from work out of nowhere the Check Engine, Traction Control and Vehicle Stability Control lights all came on. The Vibe was running fine, so I decided I was going to clean and grease the wheel speed sensors and see if that was perhaps the issue. I had been wanting to touch up the paint on the calipers anyway, so I figured I'd kill two birds with one stone. The front sensors were a piece of cake to remove, clean and grease (dielectric grease). The rear ones were a bit of PITA to do, but once I got the first one disconnected, the second was much easier. Both of the rear ones were totally covered in caked on dirt, dust, etc. I could not get the driver's side grey plastic case to snap back together on the one side, so I got fed up and wrapped a zip tie around it ! We'll see if cleaning and greasing the sensors makes any difference in the long term as far as the warning lights coming on, but it definitely can't hurt anything. I am going to give my mom's Vibe the same treatment this weekend.

[vibenvy]

I cleaned and greased the front and rear wheel speed sensors on my mom's Vibe this weekend. It's really a piece of cake when you've already done it once ! Hers were pretty dirty, but not quite as bad as mine were. I am thinking this is something I will do yearly from now on when I re-install the summer wheels and tires in the springtime. What an awful place for a sensor, especially the rear ones .