It could be bad wire routing done by the dealer when they did the airbag work. Might be they undid it and put it back when they were messing around in there.vibrologist wrote:My first thought was: bad switch. But a short in the wires would be a good guess as well.
BenWA wrote:Well, perhaps THIS is why the O/D off switch was no longer working and why it was coming on/off at will.
What evidence do I have? My word against theirs. It's a 13 year old car I bought used for under $4,000 from a private party shortly before I took it to them. However, I drove it from Arkansas through California up to Washington within 5 days or so, I used the O/D switch a few times on steep hills where there were truck lanes, so I know it worked.vibrologist wrote:Small claims court? It should be an option.
It isn't GM, it's shitty mechanics who don't care. When I had my airbag done, the technician didn't put so much as a scratch anywhere and did a bloody good job. I removed my dash earlier this year and found nothing amiss whatever. I've found that if the car is clean and well-kept, the technician is more likely to care about going a good job (I am saying this in general, not to insinuate anything about you). But other than that and telling the service adviser how much you love your car and how it's your baby so if there's a scratch anywhere you're going to destroy everyone's lives, you can't really do anything except take pictures of "before" service.BenWA wrote:This kind of crap is (partly) why I hate GM.
People who represent a company at a dealership who do shotty work and tear things up equates to the company itself. So yes, it is a problem with GM if their dealership network is full of mechanics to cut up your carpet with a box cutter, damage your stereo and rip the wires out of switches then stuff it back together hoping you won't notice.lannvouivre wrote:It isn't GM, it's shitty mechanics who don't care. When I had my airbag done, the technician didn't put so much as a scratch anywhere and did a bloody good job. I removed my dash earlier this year and found nothing amiss whatever. I've found that if the car is clean and well-kept, the technician is more likely to care about going a good job (I am saying this in general, not to insinuate anything about you). But other than that and telling the service adviser how much you love your car and how it's your baby so if there's a scratch anywhere you're going to destroy everyone's lives, you can't really do anything except take pictures of "before" service.BenWA wrote:This kind of crap is (partly) why I hate GM.
Small claims court has a number of advantages for the plaintiff. The requirements for evidence are much less stringent than higher level courts. The pictures you have here are already pretty darn good. Combine that with the receipts for the work done. Those wires don't get busted by regular wear and tear. The value to go for is also greater than the retail price of the switch. Add labor, add loss of use and you are already at a few hundred.BenWA wrote:What evidence do I have? My word against theirs. It's a 13 year old car I bought used for under $4,000 from a private party shortly before I took it to them. However, I drove it from Arkansas through California up to Washington within 5 days or so, I used the O/D switch a few times on steep hills where there were truck lanes, so I know it worked.vibrologist wrote:Small claims court? It should be an option.
Small claims for a $65 switch? (online price) Not worth it. I don't trust them to touch it again. I'll go to the junkyard and get one, or buy one off of someone here parting out a car. They can clip the wires to get it off (as long as they leave enough slack) since I will splice it in myself anyway. It's not a polarized switch or anything so it doesn't matter which wire is which.
When I had the shifter cover removed like in the photo, I started the car up and contacted the wires for a moment and then took them apart and the O/D OFF light on the dash worked as it should. I did it on/off a couple times to be sure and yep it works fine manually contacting the wires, in lieu of the switch (but simulating it). So, they are separated for now, keeping O/D on by default like it should, until the switch gets replaced.