valve adjustment time?

1.8-liter VVTL-i (2ZZ-GE) and VVT-i (1ZZ-FE) engine, transmission, exhaust, intake, and performance tuning discussions
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robdog
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valve adjustment time?

Post by robdog »

93,000 miles. I have a ticking sound at low RPM while accellerating. I know these engines have tapping, but it is quite noticeable now. Who thinks I need a valve adjustment? Anyone have this done on their GT. How much was it?
03, Abyss monotone GT, 6 disk changer, moon and tunes, Cargo mat/nets, power package, side airbags, AEM Short Ram Intake, Borla exhaust , 35% tint all around, F1 strut tower brace, debadged, 17" Excel rims w/ federal ss595 tires.
northvibe
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Post by northvibe »

ticking can be the icv? iva...mmm someone else knows the name of that thing, it usually needs a cleaning, it comes off a tube from the intake.. thats if its a ticking from the engine bay. if it is the valves they could be dirty and sticking..so you'd need to run some cleaner in the gas or a adjustment although ive seen 2zz's go more miles with out adjustment, if thats possible that they could even need one.
engineertwin2
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Post by engineertwin2 »

The PCV valve? is that what you are referring to north? Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve.AND, with this post, I am a DEMI-GOD...never had 500 posts on any forum before genvibe.
2004 Vibe GT Lava Monotone, Moon & Tunes PackageMods:Homelink17" TenzoR Mach 10s, Black w/ Red grooveTintFormer Cars: '87 Subaru DL, '99 Chevy Malibu (hated it)'99 VW Passat (like it), '99 Volvo S80 T6 (wet dreams are made of it)
Petrucci914
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Re: valve adjustment time? (robdog)

Post by Petrucci914 »

Does it do this only when cold or when fully warmed up? I've noticed some ticking when it's cold. What you're thinking of, Parnell, is the IACV valve. That generally needs to be cleaned when you have a rough idle. As for the PCV valve doing that, I kinda doubt it.
2003 Pontiac Vibe Base - AutomaticTRD Supercharger w/ Smoothflow PulleyaFe Drop-in Filter - DC Sports HeaderFull 2.25" Exhaust -Magnaflow Catback + CatsOptima RedTop - Tru-Cool Tranny Cooler
ramenboy...
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Post by ramenboy... »

i just hit 100000miles today! and i didn't notice until it was at 100007 and just around the corner from home! at any rate, you probably do need the valves lashed. i believe its suggested at 60K miles, and then periodically after that.i also get a tapping noise under acceleration on a cold engine. i basically drive very conservatively until the engine is at temperature, and its fine. i've been planning on getting the lashing done, but have yet to make the time to take the car in (and i'm broke)
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blue_can
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Re: (ramenboy...)

Post by blue_can »

I purchased a Kent Moore Vibe service set on ebay (comes in a nice case with a bunch of specialist tools for the Vibe) including the tool to check the valve lash - however, I've not yet figured out how to use it as there were no instructions. For the base engine anyway according to the FSM the valve lash is not adjustable - if it is out of spec the lifters have to be changed.
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robdog
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Re: (ramenboy...)

Post by robdog »

Is this going to cause damage if I keep driving or just an annoyance? It is not that terrible, but certainly noticeable, but only at lower RPM. Cruising is fine.
03, Abyss monotone GT, 6 disk changer, moon and tunes, Cargo mat/nets, power package, side airbags, AEM Short Ram Intake, Borla exhaust , 35% tint all around, F1 strut tower brace, debadged, 17" Excel rims w/ federal ss595 tires.
ramenboy...
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Re: (blue_can)

Post by ramenboy... »

Quote, originally posted by blue_can »For the base engine anyway according to the FSM the valve lash is not adjustable - if it is out of spec the lifters have to be changed.hmmm....i'm not the expert on this, but i would think whether its 1zz or 2zz it would be the same. the only difference i thought was that the gt engine is tuned more agressively by suzuki...robdog, i think you'd be the first to get this done...will it cause damage? i think if driven hard before the engine is up to temp it would. but i lay off the gas while its cold and wait til its warmed up. seems ok. the people behind me aren't impressed, but at least i'm not tearing up the engine. hope the experts can shed more light on this.
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Petrucci914
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Re: (ramenboy...)

Post by Petrucci914 »

It's modified by Yamaha. Basically a suped up 1zz wit higher compression, lift, and larger/more efficient intake and exhaust manifolds.Does this happen all the time or just when cold? I get the ticking when cold but it goes away after everything is warmed up. If it is pretty loud and constant then there may be something going on.
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kevera
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Re: (ramenboy...)

Post by kevera »

Quote, originally posted by ramenboy... »hmmm....i'm not the expert on this, but i would think whether its 1zz or 2zz it would be the same. the only difference i thought was that the gt engine is tuned more agressively by suzuki...ahahaha,Suzuki,you make me laugh Ramen.Suzuki FTW
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ramenboy...
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Re: (kevera)

Post by ramenboy... »

Quote, originally posted by kevera »ahahaha,Suzuki,you make me laugh Ramen.Suzuki FTWok ok ok ok petrucci is right yamaha...i T0LD you i wasn't an expert. ahahahhago ahead. make fun of the filipino kid. he has no feelings adam, you might need to have the valves lashed too... funny though, some dealers say its typical for a toyota to make the noise, and just leave it, but many mechanics say that the shims should be adjusted. i think that's why none of us have done this yet.
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djb383
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Post by djb383 »

Any mechanical valve train makes some noise, it's the nature of the beast. I believe the Vibe valve train uses shims to set the proper valve clearance.........similar to many high performance motorcycles. No lifters, pushrods or rocker arms to stick, bend or break, just a little noisy, that's all.
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goodvibe
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Re: (djb383)

Post by goodvibe »

Not doing the adjustment wont hurt anything except effeciency. 2zz tech http://www.mmsport.com.au/download.php?fid=34
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robdog
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Re: (goodvibe)

Post by robdog »

If I gets any worse I will take it somewhere to have it looked at. I will keep everyone posted on how it turns out.
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joatmon
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Re: (robdog)

Post by joatmon »

If you suspect your valve adjustment, then check the clearances. It might be a pain to adjust them, but checking them to determine if you need to adjust them is relatively easy, involves taking off the cover and using a feeler gauge to measure clearances under the cam at each valve, ColonelPanic posted a procedure in http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=8160
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ramenboy...
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Post by ramenboy... »

goodvibe: great download!jt: thanx for the cool find. no does look like a pain. did CP ever actually get it done? no wonder none of us have had this done yet...at least on one has said they did.robdog: you could be the first one! definitely keep us posted.
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Mojo72
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Re: (ramenboy...)

Post by Mojo72 »

I'm over 113,000 miles with a ticking sound and thinking about having the valves adjusted. Does anyone have an idea of how much it would cost? Is this something unique to a Toyota/GM dealership or can an indy shop do it?
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zaxellord
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Re: (Mojo72)

Post by zaxellord »

Quote, originally posted by Mojo72 »I'm over 113,000 miles with a ticking sound and thinking about having the valves adjusted. Does anyone have an idea of how much it would cost? Is this something unique to a Toyota/GM dealership or can an indy shop do it?That is hard to say, though if the valves are in sync, then it should not cost too much. Valve adjustment on the Vibe consists of time, shims/buckets and math. along with parts. If I'm correct the camshaft would need to come out to check either the intake/exhaust or both. I'm not sure. A quality shop can do this, if they know what they're doing. Barring that, I'd search out a Toyota dealer, since the engine is really a Toyota engine, instead of a GM dealer. Reason being, since Pontiac and the Vibe are no more, a GM dealer may not be too interested in doing this repair, as well as they would probably get replacement shims if needed from Toyota anyway.
mac99d
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Re: (zaxellord)

Post by mac99d »

Mine has been ticking for years now. I too bought a kit to replace the shims in the valve train, the only problem is, there seems to be no exact science to figuring out the proper size that you need to put in there. That’s the problem with doing it yourself, unless you have an assortment of different sizes to install and check to make sure it is within tolerance. I have gone to several Toyota places to find out how they determine the proper one and that’s what all of them have told me in some shape or form, that they try all different ones until its right.
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skimask
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Post by skimask »

I haven't dug to far into the 1ZZ motor yet, but I've got loads of experience with the Nissan GA16DE's.Are these shims for tightening up the valve train the same basic type of thing as the Nissan's? Basically the shims go in the "bucket" under the cam lobe that pushes on the valve stem? Nissan had a kit with a load of different sizes in it, but you also had to have a GOOD micrometer (and the knowledge to use it right) to get it correct the first time.
zaxellord
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Re: (skimask)

Post by zaxellord »

Quote, originally posted by skimask »I haven't dug to far into the 1ZZ motor yet, but I've got loads of experience with the Nissan GA16DE's.Are these shims for tightening up the valve train the same basic type of thing as the Nissan's? Basically the shims go in the "bucket" under the cam lobe that pushes on the valve stem? Nissan had a kit with a load of different sizes in it, but you also had to have a GOOD micrometer (and the knowledge to use it right) to get it correct the first time.I believe so.
zaxellord
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Re: (mac99d)

Post by zaxellord »

Quote, originally posted by mac99d »Mine has been ticking for years now. I too bought a kit to replace the shims in the valve train, the only problem is, there seems to be no exact science to figuring out the proper size that you need to put in there. That’s the problem with doing it yourself, unless you have an assortment of different sizes to install and check to make sure it is within tolerance. I have gone to several Toyota places to find out how they determine the proper one and that’s what all of them have told me in some shape or form, that they try all different ones until its right. Exactly, that is where the math part comes in. There is a formula that is used to determine the correct shim, and yes it can be time consuming.
mac99d
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Re: (zaxellord)

Post by mac99d »

Well when you figure it out let me know so I can do mine.....or I can just leave them be seems to be no probs yet.
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zaxellord
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Re: (mac99d)

Post by zaxellord »

Quote, originally posted by mac99d »Well when you figure it out let me know so I can do mine.....or I can just leave them be seems to be no probs yet.If you have access to a factory service manual (not Chilton's, Haynes etc) it has all the information you need to do the job and even includes the graph/table with valve clearance values.
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