maintenance @ 110k

[FatherTime]

I've got it in my head that it would be a good idea to do a little preventative maintenance on my 09 Vibe base 1.8L. Purchased a few months ago, and I don't know the maintenance history. I did have a mechanic go over the entire vehicle looking for any issues. All he suggested to do was rears struts (now done), and replace rusted hose clamps.

A few things that come to mind (not sure if necessary), are the following: plugs, coolant flush, clean throttle body and MAF sensor. I'm not looking to just throw money at the car for fun as I don't have much, but I would like to maybe be a bit ahead of the curve on maintenance. Any suggestions?

Also, why in the world do they want to charge so much to install 4 plugs? On this car it looks like about 30 minutes work? $180?? $100 if I supply the plugs.

[andrewclaus]

Good list so far. Is it automatic? Drain and fill transmission, flush brake fluid come to mind.

I changed plugs when I got mine and yes, it was no more than 30 minutes for an amateur.

[Caretaker]

Since money is tight, I'll assume for the moment that your mechanic is fully competent and at least determined that your brakes are in proper working order, the battery is on the newer side with no acid fuzz building up on the terminals, and your serpentine belt is not about to snap and leave you stranded. I wouldn't worry about the iridium plugs and ignition coils. Replace them only when they start to fail. They will give you performance "signals" when one or more are beginning to fail and won't just stop working and leave you stranded. Two cheap things for you to look at are the engine's air filter and please, please, please, remove all the junk in your glove box and lower the glove box so you can open the plastic door to the cabin air filter. Who knows what you are breathing in if that paper filter hasn't been changed. From there, it is all about fluids, fluids, fluids. Make sure you have new brake fluid flushed through whenever you have your next brake work done. Make sure your transmission fluid looks cherry red. If it looks like it is half grey/half red, then you may want to get it drained and refilled. If it looks grey, then get it out right away.

[FatherTime]

It's manual. I left brake fluid off my list because for whatever reason (?), unless I'm wrong, the manual doesn't recommend changing it...ever, unless you drive under certain specific circumstances, and I don't fit into any.

Change manual transmission
fluid every 30,000 miles
(48 000 km) only if your vehicle
is used to tow a trailer.

I would do the plugs myself to save some money, but I would have to run out and buy a torque wrench which would never get used again. Also...the coil packs have very rusty bolts, and that makes me nervous. With my luck I'd pop the head off one of the bolts. I still may do it though.

The spec on plug gap is .043. I noticed a lot of plugs are gapped at .044. Does that make a difference?

[FatherTime]

Since money is tight, I'll assume for the moment that your mechanic is fully competent and at least determined that your brakes are in proper working order, the battery is on the newer side with no acid fuzz building up on the terminals, and your serpentine belt is not about to snap and leave you stranded. I wouldn't worry about the iridium plugs and ignition coils. Replace them only when they start to fail. They will give you performance "signals" when one or more are beginning to fail and won't just stop working and leave you stranded. Two cheap things for you to look at are the engine's air filter and please, please, please, remove all the junk in your glove box and lower the glove box so you can open the plastic door to the cabin air filter. Who knows what you are breathing in if that paper filter hasn't been changed. From there, it is all about fluids, fluids, fluids. Make sure you have new brake fluid flushed through whenever you have your next brake work done. Make sure your transmission fluid looks cherry red. If it looks like it is half grey/half red, then you may want to get it drained and refilled. If it looks grey, then get it out right away.

Brakes and battery are both new, and serpentine belt was checked OK. I changed the air filter already, and discovered the air box cover was broken such that the right latch was not operable. A bit of the edge of the filter was exposed. After changing the filter I broke out the duct tape and secured the air box cover holding it down, and covered the gap where the filter was exposed. Looking for another one but they're pricey, (plastic is expensive these days!), and don't feel good enough right now to go rummaging around the junkyard. Manual trans, so no fluid to check. May take your advice on the plugs. Idles and starts fine, good acceleration and gas milage is normal (25/32). Plug service isn't actually due for another 10k miles, that's almost 2 years away based on my driving habits. I'll do that cabin filter today.

[Caretaker]

If I'm not too late, be very careful when pinching the plastic at both ends of the cabin air filter front "door." It is easy to snap the plastic off. In your case, you'll have plenty of "magic" tape to secure the door closed should something go awry.
As was the case in the '60s, I hand tightened my spark plugs with a quarter turn to snug. The ignition coils will have some rusty brown on the outside. As long as when you look down the hole of the ignition coil and don't see oil or signs of burning and don't see that the shaft is melted or compromised, they should be just fine.

[FatherTime]

If I'm not too late, be very careful when pinching the plastic at both ends of the cabin air filter front "door." It is easy to snap the plastic off. In your case, you'll have plenty of "magic" tape to secure the door closed should something go awry.

I already learned my lesson on plastic. I replaced the master power door switch and broke 1 of the tiny retainer tabs off the housing pulling it out. Luckily there was still 5 left so no problem. Hard to believe they designed such cheap crap. Thanks for the warning.

[FatherTime]

Yup, cabin air filter was a good idea. Never changed one before. That was disgusting. Solid black with all manner of debris, seeds, leaves, fuz, and what looked like tiny cocoons. Surprised any air could even get through it.

[Caretaker]

yep; I use high quality furnace filters and cut them to size. Saves a whole lot of money compared to the ridiculous price charged for the paper filters in a box. You can replace them as often as you want without killing your wallet

[FatherTime]

yep; I use high quality furnace filters and cut them to size. Saves a whole lot of money compared to the ridiculous price charged for the paper filters in a box. You can replace them as often as you want without killing your wallet

Good idea there.

I used to have 2 home air purifiers. They were getting around $30 - $40 a pop to replace the filter. (and I paid it a couple times). Started cutting up high end furnace filters. Worked great. Then I went total ghetto...bought a 20" box fan and a 20x20 high end furnace filter, turn the fan on and ya just lay the filter up against the box fan and sits there happily filtering your air. I've had mine running non stop for 2.5 years - same fan.

Another huge money saver is RockAuto online. Even some of their better filters are only $4 and change, shipping is cheap.

[FatherTime]

Last thing on my maintenance list to do is spark plugs. I figured I'd pick them up myself and save a few bucks. The spark plug market seems a bit confusing, wayyy to many codes and numbers, cross-referencing ect. Further confusing things is a lot of plugs that are "recommended" for the 1.8 seem to state .044 gap, when the spec is .043. Also many have a SC20HR11 part number when the manual states SK20HR11. What's reality, and what should I get?

[zbyers]

Last thing on my maintenance list to do is spark plugs. I figured I'd pick them up myself and save a few bucks. The spark plug market seems a bit confusing, wayyy to many codes and numbers, cross-referencing ect. Further confusing things is a lot of plugs that are "recommended" for the 1.8 seem to state .044 gap, when the spec is .043. Also many have a SC20HR11 part number when the manual states SK20HR11. What's reality, and what should I get?

NGK Iridium. Whether you choose the laser iridium or the iridium IX, they're both fine.