Yeesh. I was going to go ahead and use my local shop - they told me $50 a corner ($200) to put them on, as they wouldn't need to use a coil compressor or anything. Just remove the old and jam on the new ones. With pneumatic tools, minutes a corner.
Anyway, if you want to do it yourself, there's a large batch of things you can do all at once that'll make things very nice.
Moog Rear Right and left from Rockauto is about $83 each. Front right and left $125 from Moog. From KYB or AC Delco - about $112 each.
1/2" breaker bar, 25" long, from Harbor Freight - $20 (if not on sale) (You won't need a cheater with this sucker)
impact socket set - I can't remember if I got the standard or deep socket. I think I bought the Deep socket set, because the nuts were, I want to say, 24mm. I'll have to check it. The standard impact sockets only went to 22mm. Roughly $25 from Harbor Freight.
6mm hex socket. Get the ball hex socket set. $9 from harbor freight. (The ball ends work even if you can't get straight into it with the wrench)
reasonably thin box end wrench (for the sway bar link). Also make sure you have a decent 3/8 socket set.
1/2" drive socket wrench. For this purpose, just buy the 1/2" $20 torque wrench. It's ratcheting. The violent parts you'll use the breaker bar.
3/8" torque wrench. Again, Harbor Freight $20 works just fine. It's not something I'd want to use fifty times a day, but they work fine for the six to ten times a year I need one, and I've seen them tested for torque.
Deep Creep or similar lubricant, plus some carb cleaner to blow crap out of crevices.
Sway bar link (x2), control arm bushing and ball joint, and go ahead and do your brakes if they're coming up due
You'll also want a couple of coat hangers, and maybe some short bungee cords. That way, when you release the strut, you don't have the wheel assembly going 'boing'.
If you get stuck straight into it, you'll have all of it done in under 5 hours. (If you're at all experienced with repairing your car) I started to say 4 hours, but I forgot about the rear shocks.
Moog used to have a front end kit at Rockauto, with all the parts together (control arms, linkages, bushings, ball joints, etc), but apparently not anymore. Pity. There are, however, a lot more options in the 'complete strut' sections. Weirdly enough, they have KYB for the front, but not for the back.
So, you'll need about $100 in additional tools, (not counting jack stands, etc), and a weekend to spare. If you have four, put the entire car up on jack stands. Have your kid scrub down the wheels and tires for you, while they're off of the car. That'll also let you inspect all of the wheel wells, etc, while doing the job.
OOOHHHHH... Almost forgot. IF you have a pressure washer, USE IT. Even with nitrile or latex gloves (change them reasonably frequently, your hands WILL sweat like crazy - if not, mechanics gloves) you'll be dealing with who knows what in the way of caked in crap. Have a pre-diluted bottle of simple green or even windex, and a pile of old t-shirt rags handy as well, to clean off the surfaces underneath and on top when you get the struts removed.
Caveat: When putting the car on jack stands, you'll want the car pretty high so you can sit on a bucket while working. Don't do it all at once. Do one corner to the lowest setting. Then the other side. Then back corner, then other back corner. Repeat, going up just a little at a time. What causes those 'My jack stand collapsed and killed my french poodle!' videos is that people use cast aluminum stands, then crank one side WAY up, then go to the other and do the same thing. The second side is straight - the first side is now cocked at an angle. So, the upright bar bends, and then BOOM.
The other way is to have two jacks, and two people. Both of you lift the car at the same time, then set the stands in place, and lower down.
I would REALLY like a screw jack car lift (scissor style, just like what comes with the cars, but BIGGER). One that you can drive on to, then just use a drill or other heavy tool (or just muscle power) to lift the entire car into the air 2 feet. All of the small lifts on the market are either made for motorcycles, or they're pneumatic/motorized/hydraulic - meaning overly complicated, and expensive, for something that's going to sit in a corner most of the year.