Used Engine, New Engine or Get Another Used Vibe

[eadc]

I have a 2006 Vibe that has a frozen piston, and has for about two years now. I have 139K miles on it.
I've been to a few mechanics (2nd and 3rd opinions) and I've heard that the only fix is a new engine.
I'm essentially driving it until the engine goes.

From what I can tell my options are:
1) get a used engine from a junkyard and get it installed (price depends on engine / shop, one combined was about $4200)
2) install a Jasper engine (aftermarket) with a 3 year / 36,000 mile warranty, with installation I was quoted around $5500
3) buy another used Vibe. There's one in town, 2006, 105K miles, $4600

Thoughts on the best option here? Mine's in decent shape with some minor dings, a stuck glove box, I'd say in Fair and Good shape.

I could of course just get a different car, but I do like the Vibe.

[petervivian]

IMO, not worth replacing the engine. Get some money from the car before the engine dies. Get another used vibe or maybe something else.

[jayoldschool]

Can you expand on the "frozen piston"/"I'm still driving the car" diagnosis? This is not something that I've come across in 25 years of working on cars.

[rmacnamara]

What area of the country are you in because that will have a lot to do with prices.

I've been in parts and service all my life. And both engine quotes seem extremely high.

A good junkyard one installed should only set you back 1500 to 2000.

The other thing is, with another vibe you have no idea the condition of it like yours.

[eadc]

Can you expand on the "frozen piston"/"I'm still driving the car" diagnosis? This is not something that I've come across in 25 years of working on cars.

I might be using the wrong term then...my understanding is that of the four pistons (cylinders?) only three are firing.
So when I'm at a light, it idles pretty rough. But when I'm at speed I don't notice a thing. My mileage isn't as good as it used to be, but it's not a whole lot worse (I get about 275-300 on a tank, 95% highway driving).

As for part of the country, I'm in Richmond, VA. Sounds like labor on a new engine (or used engine) is a big chunk of the cost.

[rmacnamara]

What is your average labor rate in your area? When I was living in NC it was $75ish a hour.

Alldata books the job at 11.1 hrs, and 1.2 hrs additional if a auto trans.

Used Vibes are cheap to come buy if you look and are willing to drive, one just got listed in my area a 2004 with 96k one owner for $2200 great deal.

I bought a 2003 5 speed with 101k for $1000.

[MacGyver]

sell or scrap, then get another used Vibe. Don't wait until your car is dead at the side of the road; you won't get as much for it.

[jayoldschool]

Can you expand on the "frozen piston"/"I'm still driving the car" diagnosis? This is not something that I've come across in 25 years of working on cars.

I might be using the wrong term then...my understanding is that of the four pistons (cylinders?) only three are firing.
So when I'm at a light, it idles pretty rough. But when I'm at speed I don't notice a thing. My mileage isn't as good as it used to be, but it's not a whole lot worse (I get about 275-300 on a tank, 95% highway driving).

As for part of the country, I'm in Richmond, VA. Sounds like labor on a new engine (or used engine) is a big chunk of the cost.

There's about a ZERO percent chance that your symptoms require engine replacement. Get to a new mechanic. Immediately.

[eadc]

Can you expand on the "frozen piston"/"I'm still driving the car" diagnosis? This is not something that I've come across in 25 years of working on cars.

I might be using the wrong term then...my understanding is that of the four pistons (cylinders?) only three are firing.
So when I'm at a light, it idles pretty rough. But when I'm at speed I don't notice a thing. My mileage isn't as good as it used to be, but it's not a whole lot worse (I get about 275-300 on a tank, 95% highway driving).

As for part of the country, I'm in Richmond, VA. Sounds like labor on a new engine (or used engine) is a big chunk of the cost.

There's about a ZERO percent chance that your symptoms require engine replacement. Get to a new mechanic. Immediately.

Any ideas of what it could be? The first diagnosis came from my neighborhood mechanic, who was ok, but I was never too sure of.
The second opinion came from a local shop with a good rep, and the third time I was in for some brake work at another well-regarded shop who noticed the issue when test-driving after the brake fix. I feel that if three mechanics agree it's probably the right diagnosis, but if you think there's another way I'll look into it. One of them said you could rebuild the engine, but the cost to do so would be about that of a new engine.

As for folks suggesting I sell now while it's running: the check engine light has been on since this issue started, so I'd think my re-sale won't be all that great (more than a fully dead car, of course). Any thoughts on trade-in to a dealer vs. what a junkyard would pay me to part it out?

[rmacnamara]

I might be using the wrong term then...my understanding is that of the four pistons (cylinders?) only three are firing.
So when I'm at a light, it idles pretty rough. But when I'm at speed I don't notice a thing. My mileage isn't as good as it used to be, but it's not a whole lot worse (I get about 275-300 on a tank, 95% highway driving).

As for part of the country, I'm in Richmond, VA. Sounds like labor on a new engine (or used engine) is a big chunk of the cost.

There's about a ZERO percent chance that your symptoms require engine replacement. Get to a new mechanic. Immediately.

Any ideas of what it could be? The first diagnosis came from my neighborhood mechanic, who was ok, but I was never too sure of.
The second opinion came from a local shop with a good rep, and the third time I was in for some brake work at another well-regarded shop who noticed the issue when test-driving after the brake fix. I feel that if three mechanics agree it's probably the right diagnosis, but if you think there's another way I'll look into it. One of them said you could rebuild the engine, but the cost to do so would be about that of a new engine.

As for folks suggesting I sell now while it's running: the check engine light has been on since this issue started, so I'd think my re-sale won't be all that great (more than a fully dead car, of course). Any thoughts on trade-in to a dealer vs. what a junkyard would pay me to part it out?

Junkyard would not pay more than a few hundred. I just looked at a 03 GT and the guy was only offered 187 to scrap it. I was going to by it for parts $500 but didn't. Wish I had but I didn't have a way to transport over a hour something that was overheating.

Trading in you will get ripped off as its a prime time for dealers to take advantage of people.

If you were to get rid of it just sell it out right on Craigslist.
You would benefit the most on that price wise. About 800 to 1000 in the current condition imo.


I do agree of looking into more of what is actually wrong with the car. What codes are present for the check engine light?

[jayoldschool]

Exactly. Check the code. The car is trying to tell you what's wrong with itself!

What do I think it is? Ignition. Probably.

[tpollauf]

Like others here already said .... get yet another opinion. If you're not hearing knocking or other severe sounds then it is likely something ignition related or limited to the heads and not the entire engine. Definitely something that could be fixed and probably within a reasonable $$$ amount. You just need to find the right shop to do it or do it yourself. Keep us posted here. A lot of us are now curious

[joatmon]

It's hard to imagine a frozen piston being something other than catastrophic. As others have said, one cylinder not firing could be a number of lower cost issues.

sucks to have such ambiguity in whats wrong, but I'd say be sure before you give up on the engine or the car.

[tpar1220]

if it were me, first thing i would do is run codes and go from there. in mean time i would do a compression check. if compression in spec on all cylinders then most likely will be ignition problem. i would then check each cylinder for spark, if one cylinder has no spark replace coil pack/spark plug. if all coil packs good, pull, inspect and replace plugs. if all cylinders have spark and good compression then fuel related, so maybe bad injector?

this is assuming these cars run individual coil packs, which i don't know as i have never had a problem with mine.

if compression check reveals no/low compression in one cylinder remove valve cover and inspect cam lobes. if cams look good put it back together and decide what ya want to do with car as the engine will need to come apart. if you lucky will just need to remove and rebuild head. if you unlucky, problem will be piston and engine will need to come out.

there are just way to many variables and scenarios. first thing is to get codes read.

[rmacnamara]

I might be using the wrong term then...my understanding is that of the four pistons (cylinders?) only three are firing.
So when I'm at a light, it idles pretty rough. But when I'm at speed I don't notice a thing. My mileage isn't as good as it used to be, but it's not a whole lot worse (I get about 275-300 on a tank, 95% highway driving).

As for part of the country, I'm in Richmond, VA. Sounds like labor on a new engine (or used engine) is a big chunk of the cost.

There's about a ZERO percent chance that your symptoms require engine replacement. Get to a new mechanic. Immediately.

Any ideas of what it could be? The first diagnosis came from my neighborhood mechanic, who was ok, but I was never too sure of.
The second opinion came from a local shop with a good rep, and the third time I was in for some brake work at another well-regarded shop who noticed the issue when test-driving after the brake fix. I feel that if three mechanics agree it's probably the right diagnosis, but if you think there's another way I'll look into it. One of them said you could rebuild the engine, but the cost to do so would be about that of a new engine.

As for folks suggesting I sell now while it's running: the check engine light has been on since this issue started, so I'd think my re-sale won't be all that great (more than a fully dead car, of course). Any thoughts on trade-in to a dealer vs. what a junkyard would pay me to part it out?

Any updates on this?