a output converter and can you explain the thing with the speakers a little more? thank you very muchWingnut wrote:I'm a (no longer performing installs) car audio installer. What you need is a "high level input" for a factory head unit. This high level input will mount behind your radio or in your back speakers in line wires. What it does is convert a speaker wire into a RCA input for an amp. It is used on all factory head unit applications where a amp is used for a sub. Any questions, let me know.
Thanks for the help so far i was wondering if i had to still run remote wire from the radio or is there a way i can use the remote wire from the stock amp and do the speakers in the back doors have to be used for the output?Wingnut wrote:You need a "high level output". It's a little box with wires on one side that connect to the speaker wires for the rear and convert the signal to a RCA connection for your amp. Basically just hook both positive wires to the positive side of the rear speakers and the two negative wires to your negative wires on the rear speakers then plug and go. Pretty simple.
Exactly!!!Wingnut wrote:You still need to run a remote wire. No biggy though. You have to run RCA's anyway for you aftermarket amp. I would put the high level input behind the radio that way you can just tap into the back speakers wires there and not have to tear the doors open( surprisingly the area behind the radio is quite large so it shouldn't be a problem finding room to put the high level input). Run your remote wire off of the switch wire for the factory radio switch. Run your remote with your RCA's back to your amp together. About a 1 1/2 hour job. Note: Run your power wire coming off the battery on the opposite side of the car from your RCA's. If you run them together you will get engine whine over your speakers sometimes.
You just made my life so much easier ! i was told the only way was to open the doors and is there a way you can tell me the colors to the back speakers and to the remote wire and i was also told that i have to ground the converter? is that true? the converter also has a grey wire another grey wire with a black stripe a white one and a white one with a stripe and a brown one and a brown one with a stripe ,, sorry for all the questions!Wingnut wrote:You still need to run a remote wire. No biggy though. You have to run RCA's anyway for you aftermarket amp. I would put the high level input behind the radio that way you can just tap into the back speakers wires there and not have to tear the doors open( surprisingly the area behind the radio is quite large so it shouldn't be a problem finding room to put the high level input). Run your remote wire off of the switch wire for the factory radio switch. Run your remote with your RCA's back to your amp together. About a 1 1/2 hour job. Note: Run your power wire coming off the battery on the opposite side of the car from your RCA's. If you run them together you will get engine whine over your speakers sometimes.
You may have to ground it if you get "alternator whine" over the speaker but usually with a sub you won't hear it. If you do ground it to the large ground wire next to Orange or to a piece of sheet metal somewhere. Depending on the high level input the grey wire is (+) the grey with black is (-) The white is (+) the white with a stripe is (-). Make sure you use the Grey (+) to Dark blue(+) on the harness, Grey with black (-) to Light Blue (-) on the harness and so on. Not sure about the brown wire/ brown stripe.natevaz22 wrote:You just made my life so much easier ! i was told the only way was to open the doors and is there a way you can tell me the colors to the back speakers and to the remote wire and i was also told that i have to ground the converter? is that true? the converter also has a grey wire another grey wire with a black stripe a white one and a white one with a stripe and a brown one and a brown one with a stripe ,, sorry for all the questions!Wingnut wrote:You still need to run a remote wire. No biggy though. You have to run RCA's anyway for you aftermarket amp. I would put the high level input behind the radio that way you can just tap into the back speakers wires there and not have to tear the doors open( surprisingly the area behind the radio is quite large so it shouldn't be a problem finding room to put the high level input). Run your remote wire off of the switch wire for the factory radio switch. Run your remote with your RCA's back to your amp together. About a 1 1/2 hour job. Note: Run your power wire coming off the battery on the opposite side of the car from your RCA's. If you run them together you will get engine whine over your speakers sometimes.
so the grey for example will go to the right side in the bck and the white to the left and tape off the brown? and how about the remote you know what color it is?Wingnut wrote:You may have to ground it if you get "alternator whine" over the speaker but usually with a sub you won't hear it. If you do ground it to the large ground wire next to Orange or to a piece of sheet metal somewhere. Depending on the high level input the grey wire is (+) the grey with black is (-) The white is (+) the white with a stripe is (-). Make sure you use the Grey (+) to Dark blue(+) on the harness, Grey with black (-) to Light Blue (-) on the harness and so on. Not sure about the brown wire/ brown stripe.natevaz22 wrote:You just made my life so much easier ! i was told the only way was to open the doors and is there a way you can tell me the colors to the back speakers and to the remote wire and i was also told that i have to ground the converter? is that true? the converter also has a grey wire another grey wire with a black stripe a white one and a white one with a stripe and a brown one and a brown one with a stripe ,, sorry for all the questions!Wingnut wrote:You still need to run a remote wire. No biggy though. You have to run RCA's anyway for you aftermarket amp. I would put the high level input behind the radio that way you can just tap into the back speakers wires there and not have to tear the doors open( surprisingly the area behind the radio is quite large so it shouldn't be a problem finding room to put the high level input). Run your remote wire off of the switch wire for the factory radio switch. Run your remote with your RCA's back to your amp together. About a 1 1/2 hour job. Note: Run your power wire coming off the battery on the opposite side of the car from your RCA's. If you run them together you will get engine whine over your speakers sometimes.
ok thank u i am going outside inn a little while to try and get through this fire walll and and if i do then i will work on the radio next thanks for all the help so farWingnut wrote:It doesn't matter what side you wire to what. It's only running a sub you wont here a difference. The only time its sensitive to make sure which is which is if you are running a highs amp. Regarding the remote wire. Not sure. I know it's next to the orange wire. I recall it being either yellow or pink. Do you have a voltage detector? If so just turn the car on and touch the wire. If you shut the car off and the power drops then that is it. I will try and tear into my dash tomorrow to figure out which one it is.
Yeah everything is done and i went to drive it yesterday not thinking and i made a sharp turn with out the sub straped down so it flew and came unplugged but i got it strapped and everything is good and by the way what kind of rims are those on your vibe?Wingnut wrote:Per our phone conversation today you should be fine. I can't believe pontiac changed from a gm radio and harness to a toyota one that year. Just make sure you get all those wires back together before taking on the next step.
When pulling a wire through the firewall, look for a rubber gr omit somewhere to pull through. NOT THE STEERING COLUMN GR OMIT THOUGH!!! I DID THAT ONCE WHEN I WAS A KID AND NEARLY KILLED MYSELF MAKING A TURN.