Here are some notes on my LCD, touchscreen, GPS, Bluetooth, backup camera, SD card, USB, radio. Hope it helps.
As this is only my second post, I am not sure how to add pictures and if I have permission to add attachments, so here is the text and I will try to add some pictures later. I need to figure out the quote thing also.
The Radio install:
The radio I installed is a BossBVNV9382RC. It came with a backup camera but I used a different one that I already had from the first attempt to add a radio. The first attempt was with a DUAL BT256. It had an unusual characteristic: At night, when adjusting the instrument illumination down it would cause the display to flash brightly. Almost acting like a strobe light. Not really good for driving at night, and that one went back to Amazon. So I expanded my radio budget some and ended up with the BossBVNV9382RC. http://www.bossaudio.com/product/car-vi ... vnv9382rc/
. I got mine from Amazon. (its cheaper there). This Boss radio has no input from instrument illumination and has to be manually adjusted to suit the lighting. As it turned out, for driving at night, I have the brightness turned all the way down and it is still brighter than I would prefer. Also, there are other minor “behavior” problems but overall, it works as advertised. The next step up in price might have been a better investment. But the Bluetooth and the backup camera add safety and I like having all the other features to play with. The Boss has a GPS in addition to the Bluetooth and backup cam. The DUAL and the BOSS are 6.2” touch screens. In addition to the radio, I got a wiring adapter plug (SCOSCHE GM035) and a mounting adapter kit (SCOSCHE GMT2049). I used (removed) connectors to make the connections between the adapter kit plug and the connector that came with the radio. The radio plug was clearly labeled and the paper work with the adapter kit made hooking up the right wires easy, with one exception. My car has an audio amp under the passenger seat. Apparently, it came with the Moon and Tunes package and this amp may not be on your car. If you have an amp, you need to connect the amp enable to the power antenna wire which is an output from the radio when it is on. If you have a power antenna (do any Vibes have power antennas?) you would connect both the amp and the antenna to the power antenna output wire. The GPS antenna has a magnet mount and I left all the wire coiled up and stuck the magnet/antenna onto the top of the metal radio case. Reception seems fine. Physical, this radio just barely fit in depth. The mini coax connector for the GPS antenna is only about 1/16” away from the structural pipe that goes side to side under the dash. When choosing a radio, I would make use of any selection aids that make sure it will fit a vibe of your year. I think I just got lucky. The bezel that came with the radio and the one with the mounting kit were not big enough and left ugly gaps all around, so I took the bezel to a local plastic shop and they laser cut the internal opening in a piece of textured ABS plastic that, with a little additional trimming, fit perfectly and finished off the install in a professional manner.
The camera install:
The camera I used had a smaller connector and this was important to pass it thru the license plate light lens and also it did not cover any part of the license plate. A standard yellow composite video connector could be routed this way but would require more cutting on the lens. The plastic cover on the inside of the rear hatch door had to come off to gain access to the back of the license plate lens and to route the wires. I removed the lens and drilled a hole for the wire and also cut a slot in the opening the lamp holder fits in to get the wire past the lamp, and, with the wire pulled thru, reinstalled the lens and lamp holder. With the smaller hole, a bit of silicone sealer closed it up nicely. With the wire now on the inside of the car it split into two wires: +12V (red, to power the camera) and composite video. The composite video also has the +12V to trigger the camera display when the back up lights come on. The +12V (red) goes to the left backup light and the camera video connected to the main video/power cable and this connection was taped up and was secured in the door. The video wire and the camera power wire had to be run from the hatch door wiper/tag area, up the left side of hatch to the rubber grommet/tube that the wiper and license light wires go thru at the top left (from the back looking forward). I used a small diameter coat hanger to pass thru first, then pulled the wire. Something a bit more flexible might do better when going thru the grommet. (.040 safety wire might be a good choice) Getting the two wires thru the grommet was not an easy chore and it took some time, but I managed to get them (+12V, video with yellow connector) thru without poking any holes in the rubber grommet. The head liner had to be lowered (had to remove the dome light to get the headliner down far enough) to pull the wires as they came out of the grommet. The +12V was run down to the left back up light. I hated to, but I used a crimp connector to make the connection to the backup lights. I taped it up really good to hopefully prevent any corrosion. I had to remove some the plastic trim along the way forward and the video cable was run along the edge of the head liner and down the “A” pillar (do I have that terminology, right?) with its plastic trim removed and then into the dash and over to the radio. By far the hardest part was getting the wire routed thru the hatch door area. Going forward at the edge of the headliner was very easy once I realized the door seals pull off and that exposes the edge of the headliner. With the camera connector plugged into the right connector (yes, it must be plugged into the correct connector, I am certain of this!) of the radio with its +12V trigger wire connected to the backup trigger wire, it worked as advertised. Because the trigger for the camera is simply +12V, any +12V will work. I connected an additional wire to the ACC wire at the back of the radio and ran it over to the dash board switch area, below the lighting controls, and to a switch and then back to the +12V trigger so with the ACC circuit on, the switch will provide +12V to the camera and to the trigger. But to prevent this from powering the backup lights, a diode has to be inline between the camera and the backup lights connection. The diode has to be oriented correctly. Best way to tell is, if it works with the backup lights power, it is orientated correctly and will prevent power flowing the other direction. I used a Radio Shack NTE116, but any standard silicone diode with about 200ma or greater will work. I used (removed) connectors to add the diode inline, and folded and taped to make sure the diode did not get pulled apart. Hopefully, pictures to come. Is there a limit on post size?